New Member LX470 advice

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Joined
Aug 12, 2020
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Location
North Texas
Hey there! I've been searching for a 100 series LX/LC for quite some time now, i was browsing FB marketplace and stumbled upon a 2002 white LX470 for a great price. It's a one owner example with clean carfax and clean title. The recent work listed include: Recent timing chain service, new steering rack, new windshield, new tires, cooling system recently done, completely new interior (leather, carpets, foam trays, door panels, etc.), new brakes, recent PDR, and AHC bypass. The main kicker is it's got 332k miles. I'm curious if this truck is even worth taking a look at with that amount of miles? They're only asking $6k, which seems like an awesome deal. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

Edit: I should add that I'm planning to daily drive it, mostly on highways. It will also be my first truck of this sorts, coming from a fairly new commuter car.
 
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Will you be doing your own work? If not it doesn't seem to me like a very good starter truck. Hopefully they said "timing belt".
Yes I'm planning on doing my own work! i know something with this high of mileage would be really unrealistic to expect minimal issues, but I plan to maintain it very well.
 
Yes I'm planning on doing my own work! i know something with this high of mileage would be really unrealistic to expect minimal issues, but I plan to maintain it very well.
If it is essentially rust free, I would get it. There are some other things that you will need to do to baseline it, but i have 332k on my white 02 LX (I thought you were talking about mine for a second, but have not done AHC bypass, lol).
It's a great truck and if you take care of it, you will get north of 500k; I've heard.
Pay attention to tics in the motor, look at CV's for leaks. That would be a couple of obvious major things. Throw some pics on here, especially if you get it.
 
If it is essentially rust free, I would get it. There are some other things that you will need to do to baseline it, but i have 332k on my white 02 LX (I thought you were talking about mine for a second, but have not done AHC bypass, lol).
It's a great truck and if you take care of it, you will get north of 500k; I've heard.
Pay attention to tics in the motor, look at CV's for leaks. That would be a couple of obvious major things. Throw some pics on here, especially if you get it.
That's great to know about the miles, that's also what's helped draw me to the 100 series! Here's the few good pics from the listing, not too sure if I'm a fan of the powder coated black rims, but those can be changed eventually. I'm mostly considering this truck because im hoping to not have have to put too much money into a car.. again I'm sure that's unrealistic for a car of this age and mileage lol. Do you have any other pointers for things to look for if I end up going to check it out? I'm fairly new to the LC/LX!
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Make sure all of the electronics work and check for rust everywhere. If it's just minor surface rust, no big deal. Just plan on spending some time with a wire wheel and fluid film. Verify records with your own eyes, especially the timing belt. If you can, obtain a carfax report. 6K is a pretty good deal if it is rust free with all of the work that has been done to it. I had considered selling mine for about the same. Look for any leaks and take off the skid plate and look for any pink fluid just to verify there is no coolant leaks. Good luck. I hope it works out. Btw, They only get 12 mpg. I hope you're not coming from a hybrid, lol.
 
Make sure all of the electronics work and check for rust everywhere. If it's just minor surface rust, no big deal. Just plan on spending some time with a wire wheel and fluid film. Verify records with your own eyes, especially the timing belt. If you can, obtain a carfax report. 6K is a pretty good deal if it is rust free with all of the work that has been done to it. I had considered selling mine for about the same. Look for any leaks and take off the skid plate and look for any pink fluid just to verify there is no coolant leaks. Good luck. I hope it works out. Btw, They only get 12 mpg. I hope you're not coming from a hybrid, lol.
Thank you, I'll be sure to look into all of those things! I'm hoping it's not too good to be true. I'm not too worried about the mpg, I don't drive too often and when I do it's not far (especially with covid-19). Definitely not coming from a hybrid, but it might as well have been lol (Nissan Altima).
 
I'm mostly considering this truck because im hoping to not have have to put too much money into a car..

Read these for reference:



Super durable and reliable if kept in shape but don’t expect it to be cheap or you might be in for a surprise.
 
As a DD to eat up highway miles, I'm not so sure. Expect 15mpg.
 
Read these for reference:



Super durable and reliable if kept in shape but don’t expect it to be cheap or you might be in for a surprise.
thank you for the advice! I'm starting to steer away from this truck in particular and have found one a little more expensive but comes with full service records, the most recent being less than 200 miles at a lexus dealership. similar miles but seems to be much better taken care of!
 
I'd also point out, that changing maintenance items is one thing. But some owners who let garages do work if not at non dealer places may not use OEM parts. Non oem parts like CV's, steering rack, radiator and other items can actually cause more of a headache down the line. I'm speaking from experience on this one having bought what I thought was a well maintained truck only to find out CV's were not OEM and have play in them already. Steering rack was replaced a year ago for $400 but wasn't OEM and is leaking already. Point is, paper receipts, and OEM parts if buying a well used truck. Or factor in the cost of these parts and labor and knock the price down.
 
I'd also point out, that changing maintenance items is one thing. But some owners who let garages do work if not at non dealer places may not use OEM parts. Non oem parts like CV's, steering rack, radiator and other items can actually cause more of a headache down the line. I'm speaking from experience on this one having bought what I thought was a well maintained truck only to find out CV's were not OEM and have play in them already. Steering rack was replaced a year ago for $400 but wasn't OEM and is leaking already. Point is, paper receipts, and OEM parts if buying a well used truck. Or factor in the cost of these parts and labor and knock the price down.
Your insight is very much appreciated! I'm considering getting a pre-purchase inspection (depending on cost honestly) at a local specialist I discovered on this forum. I'll be sure to check for OEM parts, especially on the more important items like the steering rack, timing belt, etc.
 
That's great to know about the miles, that's also what's helped draw me to the 100 series! Here's the few good pics from the listing, not too sure if I'm a fan of the powder coated black rims, but those can be changed eventually. I'm mostly considering this truck because im hoping to not have have to put too much money into a car.. again I'm sure that's unrealistic for a car of this age and mileage lol. Do you have any other pointers for things to look for if I end up going to check it out? I'm fairly new to the LC/LX!


This truck's had a good number of big-ticket items done. I was on board for it, even with the mileage, until you posted the highlighted above.

This isn't the platform you want if you're looking to spend $6K.

I just had to go through this with insurance with my 260k mile truck (don't worry, Gerry's safe). Purchase price is simply cost of entry. If you're buying a 100 for a 'good deal', it's because it hasn't had all of the PM done. If it had, the seller would either A- be selling for much more or B- would have too much into it to be worth selling. It's not often you're going to find a "good deal" that doesn't need at least $3k in catching up.

As great as these trucks are, they are NOT for someone unwanting to put any money into them.
 
This truck's had a good number of big-ticket items done. I was on board for it, even with the mileage, until you posted the highlighted above.

This isn't the platform you want if you're looking to spend $6K.

I just had to go through this with insurance with my 260k mile truck (don't worry, Gerry's safe). Purchase price is simply cost of entry. If you're buying a 100 for a 'good deal', it's because it hasn't had all of the PM done. If it had, the seller would either A- be selling for much more or B- would have too much into it to be worth selling. It's not often you're going to find a "good deal" that doesn't need at least $3k in catching up.

As great as these trucks are, they are NOT for someone unwanting to put any money into them.
Yes you're absolutely right, and this is something I'm slowly beginning to realize. I'm of course aware of the cost of baselining and that's something I'm prepared for. I'm probably better off waiting until I'm in a better position to give it the full treatment it will need after purchasing, so that I don't make a terrible financial decision.
 
Guess it depends on whether you'd rather pay for something that needs some work done on it for a cheaper price, or pay a little more of a premium for one that's well maintained that you can drive cross country tomorrow. You'll see both ends of the spectrum. Personally, I like peace of mind knowing what items I've touched are solid and don't have to worry. Then again, I have the crap brake system on these trucks that's always over my head.
 
Yes you're absolutely right, and this is something I'm slowly beginning to realize. I'm of course aware of the cost of baselining and that's something I'm prepared for. I'm probably better off waiting until I'm in a better position to give it the full treatment it will need after purchasing, so that I don't make a terrible financial decision.
Keep in mind, baselining does not have to be done all at once. If you get the tires kicked and the mechanic says it's a good truck, but it needs....., ask for a reduction in the price due to said items. If they are minor, get the truck and baseline in phases. Like, diff fluids phase 1. Heater T's and radiator flush, phase 2.
That's what I am doing. All cars have to have maintenance. Do it in phases in which your budget allows and it won't hurt so bad financially. You will have a solid, maybe 360k mile truck, that will take you from coast to coast, no problem....well, except for the frequent gas station stops.
Getting one that is fully baselined and up to date with less than 200k will cost you about 12k or more, unless you get lucky.
Here is mine....still baselining.

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Keep in mind, baselining does not have to be done all at once. If you get the tires kicked and the mechanic says it's a good truck, but it needs....., ask for a reduction in the price due to said items. If they are minor, get the truck and baseline in phases. Like, diff fluids phase 1. Heater T's and radiator flush, phase 2.
That's what I am doing. All cars have to have maintenance. Do it in phases in which your budget allows and it won't hurt so bad financially. You will have a solid, maybe 360k mile truck, that will take you from coast to coast, no problem....well, except for the frequent gas station stops.
Getting one that is fully baselined and up to date with less than 200k will cost you about 12k or more, unless you get lucky.
Here is mine....still baselining.

View attachment 2402793
That's very true, I'll also be doing everything that I can myself to keep cost down as well. It's honestly hard to find a truck with less than 200k miles at all where I live lol, and when i do, they're asking a fortune for it. Your LX is so clean! If i end up going for this one, I'll definitely want to swap out the rims for the original alloys!
 
That's very true, I'll also be doing everything that I can myself to keep cost down as well. It's honestly hard to find a truck with less than 200k miles at all where I live lol, and when i do, they're asking a fortune for it. Your LX is so clean! If i end up going for this one, I'll definitely want to swap out the rims for the original alloys!
I think those are the original alloys, just painted or plastidipped. Someone on here found, I believe an 04 with only 60k miles, but I think he paid mid $20's for it. You are right though. It is difficult to find one with decent miles. To me, there is no difference than one with 150k and one with 300k on the clock if they have been properly maintained....except for about $8k. Lol
 
I think those are the original alloys, just painted or plastidipped. Someone on here found, I believe an 04 with only 60k miles, but I think he paid mid $20's for it. You are right though. It is difficult to find one with decent miles. To me, there is no difference than one with 150k and one with 300k on the clock if they have been properly maintained....except for about $8k. Lol
Oh you're right they are the original alloys, oops lol. I'd love to get my hands on one with such low miles, but honestly who wouldn't. That's how i feel too, just makes me nervous as a first time buyer lol
 

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