New Member First Post - 2007 LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 3, 2024
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10
Location
United States, Knoxville, TN
I just picked up my first 100 series after ~2 years of off and on searching and lurking on various forums. Its an unmodified 2007 LX470 with 268,000 miles. I am located in Knoxville, TN. Hope to meet some members in the area!

Some of the good: All miles were in the south and has absolutely zero rust. Exterior and interior are also in good shape considering its age/miles. I also have extensive service history on this vehicle - religious 5k oil changes, multiple front/rear diff fluid changes, multiple transfer case fluid changes, lots of complete brake services (amazed at how these trucks can eat through brakes), multiple power steering fluid flushes, multiple intake cleanings performed, PCV valve replaced at 140k, timing belt/water pump/tensioner replaced twice now (once at 90k and once at 185k), radiator replaced at 152k, catalytic converters replaced at 154k, heater Ts replaced at 200k (still plan to do these during my baseline), transmission replaced at 211k (not sure on exact failure, no record of fluid service since replacement), secondary air injection system completely replaced after pump failure at 190k, valve cover gaskets and half moon reseal completed at 222k, AHC system components replaced at 222k (all accumulators including height control accumulator and all shocks, still original pump as far as I can tell, more on the AHC system below), both front CV axles replaced at 222k, alternator replaced at 222k, etc. All of this work was completed at either lexus or toyota dealers. The previous owners must have spent a fortune not doing any of the work themselves. Worked out great for me due to the extensive and documented service history. I think I have just over 90 completely documented service visits and a handful more that are referenced on the Carfax that I don’t have complete records for.

And the not so good: The brakes have a slight pulse, suspect pad deposits/grabby spots on the rear rotors. They have been turned quite a few times without being replaced.The fronts have also been turned a number of times. I think at this point I am just going to replace front/rear pads and rotors to freshen everything up. Will also inspect the calipers while everything is apart. Brakes work flawlessly right now aside from the slight pulse sensation. The steering has some play, it's especially noticeable at highway speeds and on side to side undulations in the road. I have not done a thorough inspection yet. I hope that the majority of the play is just shot original steering rack bushings and potentially tie rod ends. The alignment feels great, tracks straight until an outside force acts on the steering and gets the vehicle started off to one side. Will report back on this after a detailed look. The front bearings have not been serviced in some time and do make a bit of noise. Plan to replace front bearings when I do the brakes. The antenna mast will not raise manually or with the radio turning on. No immediate plan to fix this. The AHC system is slow to raise and lower sometimes, it never fails to make it to the commanded position. Ride quality seems good and changes with the comfort/sport selector. I did try to look at the reservoir graduation level change and make sure it was 7 or greater. The fluid seems to be overfull and is making it hard to get a good count with the molded seam halfway up the reservoir. I have read through almost ever major AHC thread here and plan to go through the ABCs of AHC completely when my VCI J2534 cable gets in and I can get techstream setup. Going to attempt setup on my MacBook air. If that doesn't work I will just buy a cheap windows laptop to run TS. The power folding mirrors always fold in when the button is pressed; however, it takes multiple button presses to get them to fold out again. No immediate plan to fix this. The headlight, foglight, and side marker housings need a good sand/polish/clear coat. The paint needs touchup in various areas, nothing major. The front tires need to be replaced. It currently has Michelin LTX M/S all around. Rears are three years old with plenty of tread. Will likely just do a full set of the same tires and TPMS sensors so that all are replaced at the same time. No plans for any serious off-roading, plan to keep this unit stock and try to clean it up as much as possible. It feels like there is a slight driveline vibration on deceleration between ~80-60 mph. Need to crawl under and see if anything is noticeable loose. The drivers front windows only goes up/down automatically regardless of how the switch is used. It won’t go up or down manually where it will stop when the switch is released. No immediate plan to fix this. Missing passenger rear wheel center cap. And lastly it is just dirty inside and out, will be very satisfying to give everything a very thorough cleaning.

Overall I think my initial priority list of things to complete is as follows:
  1. Give the truck a thorough interior/exterior cleaning when the weather cooperates, it is very cold right now.
  2. Order and replace missing center cap on passenger rear wheel.
  3. Complete front steering/suspension inspection and come up with repair parts list. Hopefully the majority of the play I feel is just the steering rack bushings and not the rack itself. Will also look at all other major components that could make the front steering/suspension feel off.
  4. Inspect/grease all serviceable points on front and rear driveshafts. Try to track down potential source of driveline vibration on decel discussed above.
  5. Replace tires and have alignment performed at reputable shop. There is a good privately owned shop near me that specializes in Lexus and Toyota vehicles. May get tires replaced before completing all identified repairs above completed, just don’t want to go too long on new tires with worn steering/suspension components that could contribute to poor/uneven tire wear.
  6. Go through AHC ABC procedure and come up with plan for repairs, if any are needed.
  7. Very quickly after tires I plan to replace the front wheel bearings and front brakes. Plan to do rear brakes at the same time. Looks like there are lots of opinions on brakes on the forum, still have some digging to narrow down brands.
  8. Start baselining all fluids even though I have good records of everything being replaced/flushed multiple times - engine oil, transmission, diffs, transfer case, brake fluid(flush during brake replacement), power steering fluid, coolant (may hold off until I do next TB & WP, plan to do those around 275-285k), AHC fluid (flush during ABC procedure).
  9. Clean/lubricate sunroof mechanism and check/clean out sunroof drains. Everything works perfect right now, just want to keep it that way.
  10. Replace timing belt, tensioner, water pump, all idler pulleys, drive belt, fan clutch, and heater Ts around 275 - 285k. Are the heater Ts worth bumping up the priority list, they are not the original units?
  11. Replace spark plugs, have record of them being replaced at the 120k service. Don’t appear to have been replaced since then.
  12. Recondition all front headlight, foglight, and side-marker lenses.
  13. Touch up paint in various locations. Not so much worried about cosmetics as I am rust prevention.
  14. Open for suggestions here on other necessary maintenance/repair items. I plan to complete tall of the work needed myself with the exception of tires and driveshaft rebuild if necessary. I have a good local small business driveline company that does excellent work with rebuilding shafts. Much more affordable than a new shaft. I am sure I will have a lot of questions regarding preferred parts, best places to source them, etc. I tend to be a fan of OEM parts unless there are known issues with OE parts that aftermarket companies have addressed.
I am sure I left a few things out. My apologies for the long winded intro thread/post, I am only just slightly excited to have a project again. Here are a few pictures of the new ride below.
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Nice platform and good plans.

Wouldn't be bad idea to inspect how the windshield side moldings are secured if windshield is not original. Very common for them to be reinstalled with screws instead rivets which causes rust along pillars.

From a preventive stand point, a drain extension is a good investment: 100-Series / LX470 / GX470 AC Drain Extension Kit — CRUISER GARAGE - https://cruisergarage.com/products/ac-drain-extension-kit
Thank you for the notice on the trim and AC drain line extension!
 
Excellently detailed write up.
I would add cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body and replacing PCV valve (again) when you do your spark plugs. I would prioritize the heater tees - $20 and an hour of work for something that can wreck your rig. I’d do AHC work before the alignment as adjusting your torsion bar can affect alignment. My transition time between high/N/lo changed significantly after a 5L fluid flush, hopefully that’s all you need. I’d also change the cabin air filter if it’s been awhile and maybe fuel filter too, if I had any money left 😂.
 
Excellently detailed write up.
I would add cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body and replacing PCV valve (again) when you do your spark plugs. I would prioritize the heater tees - $20 and an hour of work for something that can wreck your rig. I’d do AHC work before the alignment as adjusting your torsion bar can affect alignment. My transition time between high/N/lo changed significantly after a 5L fluid flush, hopefully that’s all you need. I’d also change the cabin air filter if it’s been awhile and maybe fuel filter too, if I had any money left 😂.

Excellently detailed write up.
I would add cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body and replacing PCV valve (again) when you do your spark plugs. I would prioritize the heater tees - $20 and an hour of work for something that can wreck your rig. I’d do AHC work before the alignment as adjusting your torsion bar can affect alignment. My transition time between high/N/lo changed significantly after a 5L fluid flush, hopefully that’s all you need. I’d also change the cabin air filter if it’s been awhile and maybe fuel filter too, if I had any money left 😂.
Good point on AHC work pre alignment. Hopefully I can start that process as soon as my cable comes in and get techstream functional. With how good it rides currently and knowing most of the major components have been replaced, I hope it just needs a fluid flush and pressure/height adjustments.

Thank you for the for the tips on the additional items to consider while doing spark plugs and other items in general. I am still going back and forth on priorities in the list so I can stage everything out over a few months and lighten the immediate impact on the wallet!
 
When you get techstream working on your Mac, send me the spark notes version of how to do it 😃. The Techstream in 5 Minutes thread is way too long for my attention span.

I would hit the tee’s, sunroof drains and plugs jobs first. All are known potential killers.

Also, when you do your brakes, be sure to replace the caliper mounting bolts. These are another known vulnerability.
 
When you get techstream working on your Mac, send me the spark notes version of how to do it 😃. The Techstream in 5 Minutes thread is way too long for my attention span.

I would hit the tee’s, sunroof drains and plugs jobs first. All are known potential killers.

Also, when you do your brakes, be sure to replace the caliper mounting bolts. These are another known vulnerability.
If I get it working I will be sure to post any key points I used to getting it working on a Mac. I am curious if I can get it to work on my windows bootcamp partition. I have windows running natively on it through bootcamp and a partitioned SSD. I haven't seen anyone mention trying that route.

Thank you again for thr I put, I really do appreciate it!

Regarding the spark plugs, is the main vulnerability them either seizing in the head or backing out over time and damaging threads in the head?
 
If I get it working I will be sure to post any key points I used to getting it working on a Mac. I am curious if I can get it to work on my windows bootcamp partition. I have windows running natively on it through bootcamp and a partitioned SSD. I haven't seen anyone mention trying that route.

Thank you again for thr I put, I really do appreciate it!

Regarding the spark plugs, is the main vulnerability them either seizing in the head or backing out over time and damaging threads in the head?
Backing out, if unaddressed, they blow out. If they are seized, you can add BG44K to a 3/4 gas tank and go on a drive and try again after. 2001LC has posted a lot of info on spark plugs (and every other component on these rigs) on the forum. I think his current guidance is replace plugs every 90k, using no thread lubricant and torquing slightly above FSM spec.
 
Backing out, if unaddressed, they blow out. If they are seized, you can add BG44K to a 3/4 gas tank and go on a drive and try again after. 2001LC has posted a lot of info on spark plugs (and every other component on these rigs) on the forum. I think his current guidance is replace plugs every 90k, using no thread lubricant and torquing slightly above FSM spec.
Awesome, again thank you very much for the information. Will certainly read through some of the threads and bump plugs up the priority list. The engine is whisper quiet currently and idles/runs very smooth.

Is it worth doing new coil boots with the plugs? My past experience with various Ford vehicles was that coil boots should always be changed with the plugs to prevent tracking/di-electric breakdown issues with new plugs. Not sure if that is also a known issue with these vehicles.
 
Split jury on this question. Last coil I bought ran me $77 from densoproducts.com. So replacing all 8 is costly. Amazon and eBay are littered with fakes. Obviously you will inspect them when doing your plugs. I found one coil with hairline cracks. I think I’ll go back and put in new seals, boots and springs (Denso ignition coil kit 671-8184) and call it a day.

It’ll throw a code if a coil cracks on me (most likely) and I’ll reuse my hairline cracked coil until I get a new one in.



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Well the first parts that came in was two of the 2.5l AHC fluid cans. Followed the ABCs of AHC and found some interesting issues. Someone had maxed out all three sensors to give it a sensor lift. Got the heights back to OEM spec with sensor adjustments. One of the front sensors is not oem so I had to max out the oem sensor length on the other side to get the two to agree and get height down. Will order a new oem sensor eventually. I also flushed out all of the old fluid and wow it rides and drives amazing now. Ended up with 14 graduations, 6.8 MPa front pressure, 7.1 MPa rear pressure, a much much quieter pump, and much much faster cycle time. I have a second 2.5l container of fluid. Plan to drive for a few weeks and then do another flush. The fluid that was in there was very dark.

I think the next set of parts to show and the next job will be heater Ts, spark plugs, coil boot kit, PCV valve, PCV valve hose, and steering rack bushings. Also getting new tires put on Saturday and then an alignment on Tuesday.

After that I plan to do brakes, front wheel bearings, and front cv axles when those show up. Timing belt kit should also be showing up soon.

Lots of work to do. Super happy with the results of my initial project!!
 
Well the first parts that came in was two of the 2.5l AHC fluid cans. Followed the ABCs of AHC and found some interesting issues. Someone had maxed out all three sensors to give it a sensor lift. Got the heights back to OEM spec with sensor adjustments. One of the front sensors is not oem so I had to max out the oem sensor length on the other side to get the two to agree and get height down. Will order a new oem sensor eventually. I also flushed out all of the old fluid and wow it rides and drives amazing now. Ended up with 14 graduations, 6.8 MPa front pressure, 7.1 MPa rear pressure, a much much quieter pump, and much much faster cycle time. I have a second 2.5l container of fluid. Plan to drive for a few weeks and then do another flush. The fluid that was in there was very dark.

I think the next set of parts to show and the next job will be heater Ts, spark plugs, coil boot kit, PCV valve, PCV valve hose, and steering rack bushings. Also getting new tires put on Saturday and then an alignment on Tuesday.

After that I plan to do brakes, front wheel bearings, and front cv axles when those show up. Timing belt kit should also be showing up soon.

Lots of work to do. Super happy with the results of my initial project!!
You're doing this right. Welcome. 👍
 
I was also going to suggest that the brake work with the front wheel bearings and AHC balancing work be done prior to an alignment. One thing I also recently completed that would be nice before an alignment is the front diff bushing replacement. This tied the front together the most out of anything I’ve done.
 
Got a few more projects knocked out the last few days. First I tackled spark plugs, coil boot kits, and the pcv valve/corresponding vacuum hose replacement. Had two spark plugs noticeably loose on the driver's side bank and one plug on the passenger bank with what looked like oil that had soaked up through the threads. No oil on the coil or in the spark plug tube that I could see. In hindsight I should have just ordered new coils instead of the denso coil boot kit, 4 of 8 coils had hairline cracks running the length of the plastic tube. Planning on ordering one to have as a spare and then will order the remaining after I have a failure that warrants using the spare. For the plugs I went with the Denso 4702 iridium twin tip units. PCV valve and vacuum hose were OE/toyota parts.

After that I knocked out the front wheel bearings, front cv axles, front drive flanges, brakes all the way around, and a brake fluid flush. I went with OE/toyota CV axles/drive flanges, koyo wheel bearings, powerstop Z36 brakes - rotors and pads, and a two stage Prestone Max dot 4 brake fluid flush. I started to replace the front differential side seals, however the existing ones showed no signs of leaking and were in great shape so I kept them in. I have new OE/toyota side seals that I will throw in if a leak ever pops up. Nothing too eventful to note on the wheel bearings aside from struggling to get up to the high end of the factory pre load setting. I stopped at 50 ft-lbs on the adjuster nut and ended at ~11 lbs of pre load on both sides. Will keep an eye on Temps and looseness during initial run in on the new bearings. I also ended up with two different c clips to get end play down below factory spec on the cv axles. I think I ended up using a B on one side and a D on the other. Made sure to clean the spindle needle bearing and repack really good. One good thing as well is the new CVs and drive flanges took all of the play out of the front driveline. I didn't have a major clunk before but I suspect it's almost entirely eliminated now.

Regarding the brakes, I know all OE/toyota parts seems to be what everyone sticks too. However, I have had really good luck with the powerstop Z36 kit on two past vehicles with combined mileage around 60k between the two. Going to try them on the 470 to see if the same holds true. On the fluid flush I followed the FSM procedure and used techstream for the abs bleed. Did it twice with two 32 oz bottles of the above mentioned brake fluid.

I also got a new set of michelin defender LTX M/S tires put on. She rides like a dream now with good tires and the mostly sorted out AHC system.

Next immediate projects are front and rear driveline greasing, steering rack bushings, heater T replacements, and an alignment next week. All of those parts have arrived including enough coolant for the eventual timing belt job.

I also had the Aisin timing belt kit show up. I may hold off for a bit on that one. I am itching to just drive and enjoy the new ride! The current timing belt has ~83k miles on it. I also want to clean the engine bay really well and see if there are any active oil leaks - valve covers, half moons, cam seals, crank seal, etc. that would be good to knock out during the timing belt job. Fingers crossed for no cam seal leaks, that is a big job on the VVTi engines.

I am also trying to hunt down a new wheel center cap locally (Knoxville, TN) for a fair price. I am shocked at what the dealers sell them for ~$80-$110.

Will try to get some new pictures uploaded soon.
 
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Split jury on this question. Last coil I bought ran me $77 from densoproducts.com. So replacing all 8 is costly. Amazon and eBay are littered with fakes. Obviously you will inspect them when doing your plugs. I found one coil with hairline cracks. I think I’ll go back and put in new seals, boots and springs (Denso ignition coil kit 671-8184) and call it a day.

It’ll throw a code if a coil cracks on me (most likely) and I’ll reuse my hairline cracked coil until I get a new one in.



View attachment 3525365
This is exactly like what 4 of my coils looked like. Small hair line cracks on the plastic tube like this. Leaving them in for now with new new boot kit since they seem to be functioning fine. Going to order a spare to have on hand. Looks like rock auto has the best pricing currently on the Denso coils.
 
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Oh I almost forgot, I did swap out the engine air filter with an OE/toyota unit during the spark plug replacement. I also had the new cabin air filters show up and plan to replace those soon as well.
 
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Recently completed a few misc items on the 470: engine oil/filter change, power steering rack bushing replacement (massive improvement in steering, used the superpro SPF2987K kit), power steering suction line/return line/reservoir replacement and fluid flush, front/rear differential fluid change, and transfer case fluid change. I added some AT-205 to the power steering fluid and engine oil to stop a few minor fluid seepage spots. No leaks bad enough to drip yet, just some wetness in a few areas that I suspect the AT-205 will hold off for some time. I also tinkered some with tracing down my suspected driveline vibration. The vibration is most noticeable at highway speeds and is very high frequency. I pulled the rear driveshaft and found both u joints binding in their travel. Neither joint had any play so I gave the yokes a few good smacks with a brass hammer which seemed to free them up. They felt similar to freshly installed u joints where the caps press down too hard to the trunnion. I reinstalled and noticed no/minimal change to the vibration. Need to pull the front shaft and see if it is in similar shape. Discussed u joint replacement and a high speed balance with the local driveline shop. They seemed hesitant to price or even agree to rebuilding the shafts with toyota joints. Seemed more inclined to build complete new shafts with all spicer parts. Looks like prices on driveshafts aren’t too outrageous depending on where they are sourced. Will tinker with the front shaft some before deciding…

I am also currently battling discount tire on balancing my brand new Michelin defenders. They can’t seem to get them completely smooth at high speeds - 70-90 mph. Always have a lower frequency vibration separate from the driveline vibration. Most noticeable in the steering wheel. The last time I had them rebalance the tires they found three of them 2-3 oz out. Road force on three of them are between 10 and 15 lbs. One is currently at 23 lbs, not sure if that is enough to feel even if the balance is in spec. May try another local tire shop to see if they can do a better job. If that doesn’t work I am leaning towards having the high road force tire replaced. Just disappointed because the defenders are supposed to be super smooth/quiet/easy to balance.

I also suspect my AHC is intermittently acting up due to the non OEM sensor up front. I am having a hard time to keep the two front sensors in agreement. Roughly 50% of the time the system also rides really rough over tiny cracks/bumps in the road and at the same time still super smooth over the large bumps. The other 50% of the time it rides great and i can’t hardly feel any road imperfections. I suspect that the non OEM sensor is not providing smooth feedback and making the system react to inaccurate road conditions. Looks like OEM sensors can be sourced for ~$240 each from partsouq and ~$450-500 each from some of the reputable online toyota/lexus dealers. On the non OEM side the AISIN sensors can be sourced from rock auto and a few other locations for ~$170 each. What is the current consensus on AISIN vs OEM AHC height sensors? I’ve seen a few people post and mention they went with AISIN without any negative follow up feedback. I also suspect AISIN is the manufacturer for the OEM height sensor. Considered pulling my sensors and cleaning/checking them. However, with two being original and one being a replacement non OEM unit, I think I am better starting off fresh with all new sensors. Seems to be one less thing to worry about since most of the other major system components have been replaced.

I will catch up on pictures at some point a dump a bunch into the thread!
 

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