Why does the Tacoma list the BD24 differential if it has the T24A? Is this an upgrade for the TRD Pro or something?
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Also due to modularity of the platform - if need arises in future to mix and match whatever parts - it is easier than ever.
Are you suggesting that you could take CV shafts from a 250 and put them into a 252?
Or rear axles shafts for that matter? I really can't imagine things being that modular to suggest you could take axle shafts from a 8.2" diff and put them into a 9.7" or 8.7" or whatever is larger.
At least we've settled that the TNGA-F vehicles aren't "the same". Now it's time to find out how much differentiation and interchangeability there really is.
This! I had a hunch early on, but wanted to give benefit to the doubt. Land Cruiser has become an appearance package. But I'm seeing now that they led us intentionally with their marketing statements in the press release:If so, it'll be better equipped, more capable, and less expensive. I don't think the LC name will carry much or any weight in buyer decisions.
Part of me feels this is a typo. But time till tell. The preproductions absolutely had 9.5 inch rear diffs. Would be a let down for sure. Seems odd the gx would be any different.It'll be interesting to see what shows up when we see actual vehicles and part number sets. It's unusual that the GX with almost the same peak torque would have a different differential size. It's not an item that wears out generally. It's almost purely sized up for higher torque.
Makes sense on the Tacoma given the hybrid models will not have awd, so the rear axle will at times take full torque. Rare scenario for the awd models.
If it is the case that the LC250 for USA has the smaller diffs - why would anyone buy it over the 4Runner? I know we don't know what the 4R is yet, but it'll almost certainly follow the Tacoma game plan. If so, it'll be better equipped, more capable, and less expensive. I don't think the LC name will carry much or any weight in buyer decisions.
maybe we wait and see the US tech info for the LC 250 - it could still be different and end up having the larger diffs like the VJA252 GX 550
FWIW, I read a recent article on the Tacoma with the I-4 Turbo, non-hybrid. While they had high praise for the transmission and engine in general, they said the engine did have some noticeable vibration that left it less than "refined". If this is the ultimately the case, it'll be the GX for me. I'll take a slight hit in mileage for a smoother and more refined twin turbo V-6.
I don’t know if I would call 10 MPG a “slight hit”.FWIW, I read a recent article on the Tacoma with the I-4 Turbo, non-hybrid. While they had high praise for the transmission and engine in general, they said the engine did have some noticeable vibration that left it less than "refined". If this is the ultimately the case, it'll be the GX for me. I'll take a slight hit in mileage for a smoother and more refined twin turbo V-6.
Part of me feels this is a typo. But time till tell. The preproductions absolutely had 9.5 inch rear diffs. Would be a let down for sure. Seems odd the gx would be any different.
Yep.
Parading the big diff at the US reveal on pre-production and then delivering the small one would be dumb.
Still awaiting data.
Welcome to the dark sideThis! I had a hunch early on, but wanted to give benefit to the doubt. Land Cruiser has become an appearance package. But I'm seeing now that they led us intentionally with their marketing statements in the press release:
"stays true to its heritage as a durable off-roader"
"the new Land Cruiser is designed, engineered, and tested to survive in the harshest of environments."
"paired with the legendary capability and durability Land Cruiser is known for"
I recognize those are generic, bland marketing statements, but they definitely don't ring true to me.
The 550/250 is essentially the same curb weight and engine output as the 300 but they are nerfing the 250 for the US market because we don't really need the "true heritage" of the Land Cruiser and we will just buy it anyway...
I feel like I've been caught up in a cult and my shelf is starting to crack and break.
You obviously haven't looked at it wrong. Try that..I've never broken a 1998 100 series front
So anything should be fine![]()
I notice that both front and rear diffs have replaced the outer pinion bearing with a ball bearing instead of an angled roller bearing. I don't understand why exactly they would choose to do that. How does that work with the bearing preload. I can't think of any other application I know of where you are preloading a rotating assembly with a roller bearing on one side and a ball bearing on the other. Ball bearings generally don't tolerate side loading as well as roller bearings and I would expect the ball bearing to wear faster and lose the preload more quickly in this case than the old roller design.
EDIT: On closer look - it appears to be a single row angular contact ball bearing (basically a ball bearing that is designed for high axial load in one direction). But then why use a ball bearing instead? Friction? Sealed bearing? or ?? Any experts in bearings that could help me understand why?
Additionally, you would typically use setup bearing races to set up the pinion depth. How is this done with the roller bearing that doesn't have separate races? Do you have to press the thing on and off every time you adjust the shims? And how is it pressed on? Can it be pressed out with just a shop press or is a specialty tool required because roller bearings normally are not preloaded at all in a sideload. You normally just capture the center race, but here it presumably requires the outer race to have a very tight friction fit into the case and the inner race then presses onto the pinion shaft. Can you get that out without destroying it? Or is it a one-time use item? Pushing the pinion out seems straight forward. But getting the bearing back out after looks challenging.
Is the crush sleeve gone? The pinion is now very short. But I don't see a crush sleeve or room for one. What is used to set bearing preload? Shims? Nothing? or ???
I really hope you're right on this. I'd LOVE to bypass the shim and paint process. Especially in the clamshells. Toyota (and others) clamshell setup is a F'n nightmare. To do it right with a shop press and typical machinist measuring tools instead of laser telemetry measurement tool like the mfgs have - it takes a long time. I sure hope that's the future. It would be a dream come true for me to be able to just buy OEM gear sets and toss them in once, button it up, and be done.A few modern axles are heading this route for manufacturability. Per our diff designer "You don't have to mess around with shimming, and pinion nut doesn't have to carry a bunch of clamp load to preload it. You just press it in to depth and go." A HEAVY caveat here is that we're talking about whole differential system, not one given part, and that the gears used here are not the same as anything from the aftermarket. These modern OEM units are made on high precision grinding apparatus ($$$$$$$$), rather than the traditional/familiar hobbing and milling machines of yesteryear which have worked their way into the aftermarket. This is why you aren't asked to bring you USD60k ride back in 500 miles after purchase to have your gear oil replaced.
This should also answer your question on the sleeve / spacer.