New GX 460 Owner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cmb5286
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Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
In Central Iowa, I am putting on Brembo Blanks and EBC Greens for the GX460 and OEM Rotors and pads to be determined on a 2016 T4R Limited.
Both the oem and brembo rotors are well made and happening to get both at this point they seem equal, the brembo might have slightly more internal surface area? But nitpicking here. Both are well constructed.
I just put on EBC Brakes USR7578 USR Sport Slotted Coated Discs, yellow pads and stainless lines. Amazing brake feel now.
Apache offroad, extended length.
- Thread starter
- #46
Attempted trimming the front and rear last night and this morning. It's the first pass. I will try and get the front leveled out.
My question is now: How do I remove the brackets holding the plastic radiator shield? Do I drill out the rivets holding them to the crash bar or just cut them off?
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My question is now: How do I remove the brackets holding the plastic radiator shield? Do I drill out the rivets holding them to the crash bar or just cut them off?
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After:
r2m
Richard
To get a nice clean line on your cuts, get an inexpensive surform file, preferably a long one so you can get nice clean, straight lines. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Metal-Body-Surform-Plane/dp/B0001IWCW0/ref=sr_1_7?crid=35QYYXTYKEW55&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dgc5eiJGKuv75mTIAbVVPa6kEcfGAxjfqGejI_IfQKHqJsO3lPTPQtg8oEtXUD0IC-XcjlHr8uZn_ZELZUuaE5fUKVLlttbo89PFEMJO6Z5VHVzn4aaTYWI85tyJPTdo9nruaJDBEJNGH-UQwNP-X9fWCwvQsnkon2BkImCEWvJQmRZZtg10bIo7fy1aTLrOgvrYzJz92gd3oZyBHXPP88ZbybnfEhpuDHtfjf4Wy9pnmK7Rci52Rq_v2hcyDQvedOpvSESHJCBM6yg3D4WEhi5__AhU7PkSDRx7RJ1C9Ts.E8sO7MIDpXOLU5jZxfQDAogG0wow_xuGfsKN7fkg0fo&dib_tag=se&keywords=surform+tool&qid=1716072113&sprefix=surform+tool,aps,197&sr=8-7
And when you're done cutting, if you want to make it look nicer and/or don't like how your cuts look, get some edge trim. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=edge+trim&crid=3F6BOE41HWJKC&sprefix=edge+trim,aps,152&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
You may also want to cut your rocker panels/steps too.
And when you're done cutting, if you want to make it look nicer and/or don't like how your cuts look, get some edge trim. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=edge+trim&crid=3F6BOE41HWJKC&sprefix=edge+trim,aps,152&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
You may also want to cut your rocker panels/steps too.
Hit the brackets with a hammer, they pop right off.Attempted trimming the front and rear last night and this morning. It's the first pass. I will try and get the front leveled out.
My question is now: How do I remove the brackets holding the plastic radiator shield? Do I drill out the rivets holding them to the crash bar or just cut them off?
Before:
After:
- Thread starter
- #49
Made it out with the local Toyota club on Sunday. I brought my 4 year old. He is already asking about going back
I learned a couple things:
1. Pizza cutters worked great. No issues with traction
2. I will need a new front skid plate. I dented the stock one pretty good.
I learned a couple things:
1. Pizza cutters worked great. No issues with traction
2. I will need a new front skid plate. I dented the stock one pretty good.
- Thread starter
- #51
Oh yeah! STL Toyota Off-Road group. We were down at Moonlight Saturday and Sunday.What's the club, out of curiosity? I'm in the greater STL area (probably towards where those pics look like
I'm new to wheeling in general, so that's the only place I've been, but would like to try out some other places.
Sounds good, I'll look them up. I wheel quite a bit in the MTNF, within the Clearwater Lake inundation areas, Blairs Creek, etc. Lots of good places down here in SEMO.
r2m
Richard
Toyota club.... Hummm....Made it out with the local Toyota club on Sunday. I brought my 4 year old. He is already asking about going back
I learned a couple things:
1. Pizza cutters worked great. No issues with traction
2. I will need a new front skid plate. I dented the stock one pretty good.
Isn't that an Isuzu Montero behind you in the top pic??
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
You may or may not even need UCAs. I am running 1.75 up front and 1.5 in back via Bilstein 5100s and didn't need UCAs. If you do need UCAs I would consider the SPC arms.
How much lift are you going for? If you have less than a 2 inch lift in the front you should be fine without new UCAs. Somewhere between 2 and 2.5 inches of front lift is where you need new UCAs for proper alignment. For the rear, once you get a lift over about 1.5 inches, you should also consider a panhard bar correction kit. Treaty Oak KDSS spacers and DrKDSS brackets also help keep KDSS happy with the lifted geometry especially once you are over 2 inches of lift.
Comparing IMS vs FCP is kind of a toss up and really comes down to what you prioritize:
- IMS offers more variety in lift height and spring rate.
- FCP locks you into a 2.5 or 3 inch lift. I think the FCPs have a decent amount of extended length so you don't lose much downtravel, but at 2.5+ inches things like UCAs and panhard correction become increasingly necessary and the CV angle becomes more prevalent.
- Both are rebuildable and known to last quite a long time.
- The FCP will likely last longer before a rebuild, but unless you are really thrashing the truck offroad I would still expect like 40-50k+ from the IMS.
- The FCP design is neat because you can easily rebuild/refresh them yourself since they don't need a nitrogen charge.
- Both will likely feel a bit stiffer and more truck like on the street, but that is the compromise for better off road performance.
- The IMS monotube design technically allows for more sophisticated damping, but not sure how noticeable that is unless you are very tuned into vehicle dynamics. Both shocks probably chatter a little more on broken pavement but feel much better off road at high and low speed.
I have the full Ironman FCP kit. They've replaced my front coilovers under warranty and front UCAs under the recall. I sold the old shocks and sold the new UCAs (both on eBay) and just put new UBJs in my UCAs. They rushed the kit to market but have made good on it.
I am I unhappy with the kit.....not really. I have 40K on it and it rides just as good as Day 1. It's an awesome setup for towing as well. If you get it on something like a Labor Day or Black Friday sale, it's a cheap kit (around $2200 for me) with shocks and UCAs. I've made hundreds of dollars selling the replacement/recall parts as well, so I'm well under $2K in this kit.
BUT - they definitely had/have QA/QC problems. If I were to go back in time I would have thought much harder about getting a Dobinsons kit which would have skipped these teething issues. I also think that kits like ICON shocks ride better than the FCP, they they require far more rebuilds. I'm betting I can get 60-70K+ between shock rebuilds and do it at home. I think Dobinsons needs to be sent off for a rebuild as well.
I am I unhappy with the kit.....not really. I have 40K on it and it rides just as good as Day 1. It's an awesome setup for towing as well. If you get it on something like a Labor Day or Black Friday sale, it's a cheap kit (around $2200 for me) with shocks and UCAs. I've made hundreds of dollars selling the replacement/recall parts as well, so I'm well under $2K in this kit.
BUT - they definitely had/have QA/QC problems. If I were to go back in time I would have thought much harder about getting a Dobinsons kit which would have skipped these teething issues. I also think that kits like ICON shocks ride better than the FCP, they they require far more rebuilds. I'm betting I can get 60-70K+ between shock rebuilds and do it at home. I think Dobinsons needs to be sent off for a rebuild as well.
Certainly true, but with other shocks, you may need to have the pulled more often for rebuilds when they wear out, and have the rig down for a week plus while they are sent out and re-done, relative the FCP that can be rebuilt by anyone. That was the deciding factor for FCPs for me.
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I am hoping to get 50k+ out of my Dobinson MRAs but will be fine with like a 30k rebuild cycle if thats what it comes to. Most of the rebuildable monotubes can be handled by any competent shop/vendor but there are some exceptions. I stopped cross shopping the OME BP-51s when I found out you have to send them back to ARB for service. I can take my MRAs 10 minutes down the road for a rebuild when the time comes.
