New fuel lines - Advice needed

[fieldsken1]

yes summit sells the line its russell line but whoever makes it its not all the same. as far as price i dont remember but its not cheap i think about 4 dollars a foot. you cant use hose clamps with it. you need the right ends i did run it all the way to the fuel pump with russell ends. each hole is drilled and tapped with allen heads. yes that is the only tank i took the one under the seat out to lower the seats so i would not seat so high. fells better now. if you look the bar is bent down

 

[pappy]

I'm having a hard time visualizing this. So take a hard 3/8 metal line, and using this $10 device, I can bend it to route it to the tanks? How does it fit into the tanks, fuel switches, etc..

Two pics. First is steel brake line routed along frame rail used to transport gas from the tank forward. Second pic has the flare nut mounted to the steel line that adapted to the OEM flex hose. What I don't have a picture of is the bubble end where the EFI rubber hose attaches from the electric fuel pump. I'm running 45psi through this line.

 

[FishNinJay]

Two pics. First is steel brake line routed along frame rail used to transport gas from the tank forward. Second pic has the flare nut mounted to the steel line that adapted to the OEM flex hose. What I don't have a picture of is the bubble end where the EFI rubber hose attaches from the electric fuel pump. I'm running 45psi through this line.

clean, looks good.

Dumb question #1
Why that complex adapter? Can't the rubber hose just fit over the cut end of the steel brake line, and use a standard hose clamp?

Dumb question #2
You're fuel injected. Mine's carb, so no pressure. Any concern about the steel line running close to exhaust, manifolds, etc.. and gas "boiling" in the line causing vapor lock?

Dumber question #3
You drilled all those mounting holes in the frame? yes?


I'm leaning towards using the steel braided fuel line, like Ken's rig (steel braid on outside, rubber on inside). I eventually have to drop out my rear aux tank to get it cleaned out and lined, so that's probably the best time to do new fuel lines and get rid of that bad leaking rubber line pictured above.

 

[pappy]

Dumb question #1
Why that complex adapter? Can't the rubber hose just fit over the cut end of the steel brake line, and use a standard hose clamp?

I probably could have. The hose goes from the hard line to the fuel filter which has a banjo fitting. It made more sense to flare on the nut and not cut that expensive hose. Because of the banjo fitting on the filter I needed to use that hose anyways. I just engineered the line as Toyota intended. At the fuel pump end the rubber line is clamped on with the proper efi clamps.

Dumb question #2
You're fuel injected. Mine's carb, so no pressure. Any concern about the steel line running close to exhaust, manifolds, etc.. and gas "boiling" in the line causing vapor lock?

Yes, 3FE efi. Heat is not an issue. The line runs on the passenger side. The exhaust system on a 2F/3FE runs on the drivers side, same side as the manifold. My brake lines are also run on the passenger side for the same reason.

Dumber question #3
You drilled all those mounting holes in the frame? yes?

Yes. The bolts were 6mm. Not a big deal

I'm leaning towards using the steel braided fuel line, like Ken's rig (steel braid on outside, rubber on inside). I eventually have to drop out my rear aux tank to get it cleaned out and lined, so that's probably the best time to do new fuel lines and get rid of that bad leaking rubber line pictured above.

For me the less rubber the better.

 

[FishNinJay]

Two pics. First is steel brake line routed along frame rail used to transport gas from the tank forward. Second pic has the flare nut mounted to the steel line that adapted to the OEM flex hose. What I don't have a picture of is the bubble end where the EFI rubber hose attaches from the electric fuel pump. I'm running 45psi through this line.

Nice set-up pappy!

A few follow-up dumb questions..

#1
If I run 3/8 brake line with standard rubber hose transitions and standard hose clamps. I'll just use the rubber hose thru the tub and at the fuel switch and pump barbs fittings, but wondering, what size rubber hose? I assume the steel line is a 3/8 I.D.? So I'm only using gear hose clamps, so I want it snug. The rubber would have to be at least 3/8 right? Right now, I have 5/16 rubber, and wondering if a fatter 3/8+ rubber line will be too loose at the switch and pump?

I decided against the steel braided line. I really like how Ken's looks, but the inside is still rubber. And, the steel braid line seems harder to work with, cut, and have to use those aluminum fittings. I'm going to try to keep the rubber at the transitions as short and easy-to-replace as possible.

#2
I think I'm going to try to run brake line, like pappy did here.

Right now, I have rubber line running over my rear drive shaft and close to my dual exhaust. You can sort of see this in my pics above in post #13 in this thread. I'm not sure if it was the old rubber, the bend, the vibration, the nearby heat, or all 4, which contributed to my gas leak. If I run steel line in this same course, will the heat cause any "boiling" of the fuel and vapor lock in the steel line? I am NOT running EFI. Just a plain ol' non-pressurized carburetor system. I can wrap the steel line in this area with this shiny heat shield puffy tape?

#3
Those 6mm brackets bolted to the frame work perfect. It looks like there is a rubber lining. Where do you get those, or something similar?


AS ALWAYS.. MUCH THANKS!!!