New F & 2F carbs (13 Viewers)

[norsk]

Got mine on the rig yesterday.

But my whole process took longer since I was doing more stuff since I was "in there"

Took off the AI rail, and plugged the holes with the plugs I bought from JimC. Cleaned up the heater hose T and elbow - boy they were plugged 3/4 shut (previously have cleaned both heater cores). Without the AI rail it sure looks a mighty cleaner. Installed a coolant flush T at the hose high point. Was going to install new Temp Sending Unit, but could not find where I put it.

Marshall had installed my high altitude jets for me (I assume the low altitude jet was in the zip lock bag - one thing though is I don't know where the jet actually is on the carb). I then hooked it up and choked it and she started, but as I turned down the choke she would die. Finally remembered the idle screw and turned that up, then adjusted the idle mixture until I got a maximum of 14 inches, Then readjusted idle until 700+/- rpms. She purred nicely.

I did hook up the wire to ACC switched line - wish the carb came with a female adapter to fit that male one on the carb. I used a F female socket and slid that onto the carb socket.

Now help me here, what DOES the wire power within the carb?

Another issue I had was when I took the spacer off as well, the lower gasket was broken and it took a heck of alot of work to get the rest of it off. Cleaned up the spacer and heat shield, then put on new gasket, spacer then another gasket and then the carb. Hope I did it right.

Oiled the throttle ball-clips, fuel line went on great, capped the fuel bowl draw vacuum line at the firewall, removed the rest of the vacuum items (HVAC, decel, AC idle up) and it all went back together well.

The new carb to AC housing gasket fit nicely. My old one was leaking air badly and I could not find a replacement

Marshall, do you sell those upper carb gaskets alone? It will be nice to have a spare one or two of those in the parts bin for future use.

Looking forward to trying the mileage on the rig this week. My old carb was leaking way too much fuel, getting 11 mpg normally, but sometimes would get 14.

Great new carb so far.

thx

doug t

 

[Trollhole]

Got mine on the rig yesterday.

But my whole process took longer since I was doing more stuff since I was "in there"

Took off the AI rail, and plugged the holes with the plugs I bought from JimC. Cleaned up the heater hose T and elbow - boy they were plugged 3/4 shut (previously have cleaned both heater cores). Without the AI rail it sure looks a mighty cleaner. Installed a coolant flush T at the hose high point. Was going to install new Temp Sending Unit, but could not find where I put it.

Marshall had installed my high altitude jets for me (I assume the low altitude jet was in the zip lock bag - one thing though is I don't know where the jet actually is on the carb). I then hooked it up and choked it and she started, but as I turned down the choke she would die. Finally remembered the idle screw and turned that up, then adjusted the idle mixture until I got a maximum of 14 inches, Then readjusted idle until 700+/- rpms. She purred nicely.

I did hook up the wire to ACC switched line - wish the carb came with a female adapter to fit that male one on the carb. I used a F female socket and slid that onto the carb socket.

Now help me here, what DOES the wire power within the carb?

Another issue I had was when I took the spacer off as well, the lower gasket was broken and it took a heck of alot of work to get the rest of it off. Cleaned up the spacer and heat shield, then put on new gasket, spacer then another gasket and then the carb. Hope I did it right.

Oiled the throttle ball-clips, fuel line when on great, capped the fuel bowl draw vacuum line at the firewall, removed the rest of the vacuum items (HVAC, decel, AC idle up) and it all went back together well.

The new carb to AC housing gasket fit nicely. My old one was leaking air badly and I could not find a replacement

Marshall, do you sell those upper carb gaskets alone? It will be nice to have a spare one or two of those in the parts bin for future use.

Looking forward to trying the mileage on the rig this week. My old carb was leaking way too much fuel, getting 11 mpg normally, but sometimes would get 14.

Great new carb so far.

thx

doug t

Your spare jets are behind the two bolts that sit under the fuel window. Your main jets are located inside the carb once those two bolts are removed.

In the bag is the choke stop. You don't need it since you have a FJ60.

There are so many different connectors that go to the fuel solenoid I just went with what they had.

Power wire is for the idle circuit. You need to have this hooked up. When you switch the key to the on position you should be able to feel the solenoid click.

You shouldn't remove the gasket from the spacer as it is bonded to it. Best to use some RTV to fix any cracks.

As far as gaskets I've thought of selling those as well as a few other parts for the carb install. It's on the list of improvements to the kit.

 

[Trollhole]

Some pics from this weekend.

Yes this is what I did all weekend. They are all boxed and on a truck as of this morning.

The history of the elephants.

This is the throttle linkage installed with all the bits. I leave it up to you on where you want the pivot point as all pedals over the years have different throttle play. Plus some may just want a slower pedal and some may want a faster pedal. All the plates I fabbed are stainless steel.

 

[bsilva132]

Got my carb on Wednesday and was able to get it installed and fired up Sunday. Just needed a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the idle to get the correct rpms and had to adjust the timing a little. Only issue I had was the vac advance port pulled out when I removed the vac cap I had put on it to adjust the timing. Just tapped it back in though. Runs like a champ.

 

[Trollhole]

Got my carb on Wednesday and was able to get it installed and fired up Sunday. Just needed a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the idle to get the correct rpms and had to adjust the timing a little. Only issue I had was the vac advance port pulled out when I removed the vac cap I had put on it to adjust the timing. Just tapped it back in though. Runs like a champ.

That's interesting. I'll make sure to add it to the check list.

 

[norsk]

Your spare jets are behind the two bolts that sit under the fuel window. Your main jets are located inside the carb once those two bolts are removed.

ah, thanks

In the bag is the choke stop. You don't need it since you have a FJ60.

There are so many different connectors that go to the fuel solenoid I just went with what they had.

Ok, for the choke stop

On the connector I assumed as such. Just wish there was an extra female connector to go with the carb or a link to the mate. If I didn't think about my F female, I was about to cut off the one that came with the carb and get a complete set.

Power wire is for the idle circuit. You need to have this hooked up. When you switch the key to the on position you should be able to feel the solenoid click.

ahhhhhh, that info helps

You shouldn't remove the gasket from the spacer as it is bonded to it. Best to use some RTV to fix any cracks.

Then I did wrong - darn

So there is NO removable gasket that is "suppose" to be there. I thought that 24 years of crud just froze it in place.
Well, more tuition on my part. I just put another carb gasket in to replace it and hopes it works ok. Maybe need to get a bunch of those gaskets
(Learning things, one mistake at a time)

As far as gaskets I've thought of selling those as well as a few other parts for the carb install. It's on the list of improvements to the kit.

Wonderful, I will take 2 or 3. Since I have the carb now, I don't know how long I will have the rig, nor how long you will be around selling these parts. 10+ plus years down
the road I want to support this carb. Then maybe I should get buy and store a second carb - hehe - cheaper than the labor for a rebuild

I will say, those pics of all those carbs are beautiful - some happy rig owners this coming weekend or so

doug t

 

[MoCoNative]

norsk, you mentioned removing your AC idle up. If you still have AC on your rig, you will want the idle up. It works like modern vehciles in that it kicks the idle up to 1200 or so when the AC compressor kicks on while idling at a stop light and such. Just helps to compensate for the added instant load on the engine and spin the fan to facilite cooling while stopped. These carbs have the machined spot and holes to put the arm back on the primary throttle shaft. And the AC idle up diaghram just attaches under the bolts on the top of the carb. All that the system requires is the small vacum selenoid on the fender and a positive vacum off the manifold to the one line. It runs completely independent from the smog system and is controlled by the AC computer over on the heater/AC housing under the dash. Worth putting back on in my opinion, the other stuff can go away though.

If you don't have a vacum leak under the heat plate, then you are fine. I've put gaskets on each side of my old spacer for years, always been fine.

 

[norsk]

norsk, you mentioned removing your AC idle up. If you still have AC on your rig, you will want the idle up. It works like modern vehciles in that it kicks the idle up to 1200 or so when the AC compressor kicks on while idling at a stop light and such. Just helps to compensate for the added instant load on the engine and spin the fan to facilite cooling while stopped. These carbs have the machined spot and holes to put the arm back on the primary throttle shaft. And the AC idle up diaghram just attaches under the bolts on the top of the carb. All that the system requires is the small vacum selenoid on the fender and a positive vacum off the manifold to the one line. It runs completely independent from the smog system and is controlled by the AC computer over on the heater/AC housing under the dash. Worth putting back on in my opinion, the other stuff can go away though.

If you don't have a vacum leak under the heat plate, then you are fine. I've put gaskets on each side of my old spacer for years, always been fine.

thanks. So just remove from old carb and put on new carb then?

I will keep the AC idle up vac switch, but currently the AC needs to be converted over to R-134a sometime and the compressor looked at. Its 10 degrees F rightnow, so not in a hurry

doug t

 

[Mtrunner]

New Dizzy Question,

So while I'm waiting for a new Trollhole dizzy I've been looking online at the other available dizzy's from SOR, CCOT and MAF. All three vendors recommend replacing the dizzy clamp with a new OEM clamp when you install a new dizzy. Since I've never replaced my dizzy and I've only been wrenching on Cruisers for just a couple of years, how crucial is it? Will my original dizzy clamp work/fit with the new dizzy? I've got a 72 F engine with the original dizzy and clamp currently.

The clamps run about $7 new, so understand the idea of "cheap insurance" and "since you've got the dizzy out, you might as well replace it." Is that what those recommendations are about? Or is there really a huge need to do it?

I'm more than happy to replace the clamp if its a preventative maintenance thing or because of fit, but if its just a vendor thing trying to sell clamps... that's why I'm asking. Do these clamps wear out, causing the dizzy to loosen and lose your timing?

Because these guys are all selling OEM clamps, I assume I can just get one from the dealer... right? It looks like the one clamp fits all sizes of FJ40's....

Any thoughts on clamps and replacement, especially with these dizzy's?

-Brad

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Marshall, Got the carb already. Wow, super fast. And talk about packing that thing up where nothing will bother it. Now to go pull the old Weber off.

Thanks much for the great product and super fast shipping.

 

[Trollhole]

If I were going to get a new dizzy I'd probably spring the 7 dollars and get a clamp. Not because it would hold the dizzy any better but just because it's new and the adjuster nut hasn't rusted or been messed up from the last 20 owners of the cruiser.

New Dizzy Question,

So while I'm waiting for a new Trollhole dizzy I've been looking online at the other available dizzy's from SOR, CCOT and MAF. All three vendors recommend replacing the dizzy clamp with a new OEM clamp when you install a new dizzy. Since I've never replaced my dizzy and I've only been wrenching on Cruisers for just a couple of years, how crucial is it? Will my original dizzy clamp work/fit with the new dizzy? I've got a 72 F engine with the original dizzy and clamp currently.

The clamps run about $7 new, so understand the idea of "cheap insurance" and "since you've got the dizzy out, you might as well replace it." Is that what those recommendations are about? Or is there really a huge need to do it?

I'm more than happy to replace the clamp if its a preventative maintenance thing or because of fit, but if its just a vendor thing trying to sell clamps... that's why I'm asking. Do these clamps wear out, causing the dizzy to loosen and lose your timing?

Because these guys are all selling OEM clamps, I assume I can just get one from the dealer... right? It looks like the one clamp fits all sizes of FJ40's....

Any thoughts on clamps and replacement, especially with these dizzy's?

-Brad

 

[Acadia]

Marshall

carb arrived today! looks great! can't wait to put it on this weekend!!

Thanks again!

Jeremy

 

[Mtrunner]

An idea...
The cable throttle attachment on my original 71 carb looks just like this throttle cable attachment, curved upside down rainbow looking thing where the stub at the cable end fits into the notch.

Is there a way to put these cable throttle attachments on your new carbs instead of fabbing up the "elephants" and using the lokar pieces that add to the cost?

I mention it for two reasons, 1) you wouldn't have to fab up the brackets, helping keep costs down and 2) it would also make it even easier to use your carb for those who don't want to cut an original throttle cable. It would help keep the necessary "mods" to an original setup minimal (for those "cafeteria purists" out there that are willing to use a non-OEM carb).

Maybe I've missed something and there's a really good reason you aren't doing this, but it looks like it could work.

 

[Trollhole]

It will work but it requires you to grind a little off the back of the original cam throttle mount. It also makes the cable attachment a little weak. But yes it can be done. If you want to give it a shot and not cut the end off the cable I say go for it. It would cut 20 dollars off the 45 dollar F kit. I'm all for not making more of those elephants since I'm the one making them and as you can see they suck cutting them out on the band saw and drilling all those holes as well I wouldn't have to buy those Lokar parts which I still think are a rip off.

Honestly anyone with some mechanical knowledge could make the cable work with the carb without all my brackets. If you can bend metal, grind a little and drill holes you can do it yourself and save 45 dollars doing it.

 

[Trollhole]

An idea...
The cable throttle attachment on my original 71 carb looks just like this throttle cable attachment, curved upside down rainbow looking thing where the stub at the cable end fits into the notch.

Is there a way to put these cable throttle attachments on your new carbs instead of fabbing up the "elephants" and using the lokar pieces that add to the cost?

I mention it for two reasons, 1) you wouldn't have to fab up the brackets, helping keep costs down and 2) it would also make it even easier to use your carb for those who don't want to cut an original throttle cable. It would help keep the necessary "mods" to an original setup minimal (for those "cafeteria purists" out there that are willing to use a non-OEM carb).

Maybe I've missed something and there's a really good reason you aren't doing this, but it looks like it could work.

Couple things. While that bracket looks the same it's not the 3f cable (which is what that carb is) has a bigger cable end. The early carb end wouldn't fit well in it. Also it is a bigger cam. Meaning the cable needs to be a 1/2"-1" long which was pushing it. Only other reason was I have to buy a 1000 of each part
Though it would probably be cheaper doing it that way then doing it the way I'm doing now.

 

[bsilva132]

Marshall-
Just wanted to say thanks for the great product. I have taken my 40 for 2 long drives since the carb install and it is nice to finally not reak of exhaust everytime I drive it. Carb took minimal adjustment to get the engine running smooth and strong. Well worth the $225.

 

[Trollhole]

Thanks glad everything worked out well for you.

 

[Seth_O]

Anyone have any pic's of how they've hooked up their choke cables? I have a '69 with the associated choke cable, and not sure the best way to attach it to the carb, looking for what other folks have done.

 

[Mtrunner]

Marshall,

What size are the threads you tapped into the fuel inlet?

I want to try to get a barbed fitting to screw into the carb so I can run a temporary soft fuel line from my stock hard fuel line to reach around to the front of the carb. I'm trying to accommodate the relocated fuel inlet (from valve cover side, to front of the carb).

I'm planning on eventually bending a new hard fuel line to go from the fuel pump to the new carb...

 

[PAFJ]

Has anyone been able to retain the charcoal canister and EVAP system using this carb? This will be on a '85 FJ60.