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Hi again Ben
I'm so confused here!
My cruisers not in this age group (because it's 1979 and not 1972) and I'm not familiar with your vehicle's history (so perhaps I should just butt out?)
Changing cylinder bore sizes (master and/or wheel cylinders) can:
So surely your first step should first be to check which sizes Mr Toyota used on your cruiser for your master, front cylinders, and rear cylinders? (And I imagine this is easy enough to find out from your production year and month.)
- make your master run out of pedal-travel before your brakes are applied
- cause your vehicle to pull violently to one side (if the bore-size on one side of an axle doesn't match the other)
- make the pedal feel far too stiff
- make it impossible to get pedal-travel within spec
- weaken your overall braking effect
- transfer the braking effort incorrectly from one axle to the other (making it much more likely for you to lose control under heavy braking)
- etc
I would never advise relying on what any parts-supplier says (no matter what their reputation may be). And I certainly would never fit what they supply, when it differs markedly from I had before, without questioning/researching it.
I have drums all round and my cruiser has bigger-bore cylinders on the front than the rear because that's where most of the stopping power is required. (But for all I know, Mr Toyota may have used different methods on your 1972)
In other words, in your shoes I'd want to know what Mr Toyota chose for my master and wheel cylinder bore sizes. Then I'd look at what I have and see what does and doesn't match before trying to get what I've got to work together.
What am I missing here?
I am not in disagreement with you, the 2 man method IS the best way(I didn't have help). I'm just offering another option that worked for me.
Hi Guys,
I have brakes again after a long and winding road...
Once again thank you to everyone who helped me out on this and especially Stephen who took the time to send me some PM's as well!
Just to verify the after market brake cylinder sizing questions....compared to the stock Toyota units they are all the correct bore and piston sizes...but it seem a few of these manufactures choose to do one overall casting size to save money an then bore the cylinder sizes accordingly
Here is what it took
1. Replaced leaky master cylinder (never could self bleed without air in rear reservoir)
2. Bench bled MC
3. Re-bled entire system again after MC was installed
4. Burped each rear cylynder one at a time...thought I was done.
At this point things were way better but not good enough...so I did some more research....
5. Adjusted the push rod on my replacement mini truck brake booster...this was critical...mine was backed off way to much...once I did this I picked up some major braking power. I may revisit my brake pedal adjustment as well....
6. I still felt the actual cylinder adjustment needed to be better.... Per everyones suggestion.... I adjusted the cylinders with the wheels on to more than just a slight drag...almost to the point of not being able to spin the wheel by hand....
7. Getting better yet!!! Still felt like there was a little air in the system....
8. Re bled one last time....bingo...now I can lock em up...
Are they perfect? No...but at this point I now have 4 times the stopping power I use to have after I pumped the brake pedal 3 times....
The two pieces of advice I would give in hind site....
1. If you have an old master cylynder...replace or rebuild it before you start your brake rebuild work.
2. If you have Toyota wheel cylynders....just rebuild them or have them rebuilt...the after market ones are just a PITA
Cheers!
Benjamin
