New carpet install/bedliner removal help

[goose4433]

Ok, I ordered up some new dnp carpet, fatmat, and foam and decided to start prepping. Found some rust, which was expected. But I didn't realize the bedliner the PO installed would be such a PITA to get out. It also looks like it's started to cause some rust in other places I wasn't expecting. My original plan was just to remove the liner over the rusty spots, repair, and install fatmat directly on top of the bedliner everywhere else. Now I'm not to sure that's a good idea.

Not only that, but this stuff is really tough to get out. In the footwells it looks like the adhesive has worn off and it's just floating over the metal. In other places it still feels very bonded to the metal. What do you guys think? Is it worth it to get the bedliner off in all the other places where it is still well attached (like the transmission tunnel, etc.)? Any idea how to get the adhesive to let go? Maybe a heated knife would help melt through it...

 

[IslandJ]

I feel for you on that one. Maybe pick up a block of dry ice, let it chill in a spot for a while and use a chisel on it?

 

[John Staton]

wow, that is thick. Based on what you have already discovered I would consider putting the work in to get that stuff out and address the rust. When you go back use the fatmat and then go ahead and do a layer of jute spray glued down and let the carpet float on that. That is how I did it and it came out nice. Luckily I did not have to address any rust.

I also ordered extra channels and doubled them up near the doors so the carpet is flat right up to the edge.

 

[goose4433]

What do you mean channels? Is that a part that sits under the carpet?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Dry ice is the way to go w/ bedliner removal.

 

[IslandJ]

What do you mean channels? Is that a part that sits under the carpet?

There’s plastic channels under the carpet that the wires run through. Carpet is staples to the channels from the factory. I imagine the PO tossed them. Some people don’t bother with them. Some people like them. John ran two on each side, side by side to bridge the valley from the door to the floor.

 

[CaptClose]

I’m not great at video editing, so watch the beginning of the video, then skip to minute 9:00 to see how easy it comes off.

 

[John Staton]

What do you mean channels? Is that a part that sits under the carpet?

so you have a row on each side that hooks to the jamb and the wire harness runs through it. I doubled them up where I could and shaved them down to create a flat surface all the way up to the jamb.

 

[g-man]

If it makes you feel any better, that floor would probably have rusted with or without the bed liner. This is why I don't glue anything to my floor. I don't recommend it either unless you are in an arid climate or keep your vehicle garaged and dry.

wiring channels are nice but you could prob just get some electrical conduit. @John Staton...where did you source the channels.

 

[joebattle1]

Are you wanting to rid the entire interior of bed liner? Man... You’re gonna need a lot of dry ice. A lot of potencial for rust to be under there in different locations. I’m ready when you are I guess...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Are you wanting to rid the entire interior of bed liner? Man... You’re gonna need a lot of dry ice. A lot of potencial for rust to be under there in different locations. I’m ready when you are I guess...

Dry ice goes a long way. I left mine intact (it was on fat pellets) and kept it bagged while I left it to work it’s magic. I only bought maybe a 1/2lb and it would have easily held its properties for far more than I removed.

 

[John Staton]

If it makes you feel any better, that floor would probably have rusted with or without the bed liner. This is why I don't glue anything to my floor. I don't recommend it either unless you are in an arid climate or keep your vehicle garaged and dry.

wiring channels are nice but you could prob just get some electrical conduit. @John Staton...where did you source the channels.

a parted out 60...it was from Sigfred and Sons...I have bought several parts from him. Paid $40 if I remember right. Makes for a nice finish.

 

[joebattle1]

Dry ice goes a long way. I left mine intact (it was on fat pellets) and kept it bagged while I left it to work it’s magic. I only bought maybe a 1/2lb and it would have easily held its properties for far more than I removed.

So can you pick it up and keep using it over and over again? Assuming it will melt eventually right?

 

[CaptClose]

So can you pick it up and keep using it over and over again? Assuming it will melt eventually right?

Yes... I just scooped it up and reused it on the other side as well. It’ll stay cold for a long time.

 

[Wayne Jacobs]

So can you pick it up and keep using it over and over again? Assuming it will melt eventually right?

Actually, in our environment, dry ice doesn't melt, it sublimates, converting directly from solid to gas.

I know it should be obvious and that you already know this, but for those who don't, when using dry ice in an enclosed space, ensure that you have adequate ventilation. Leave your doors and rear hatches open so that the Carbon-Dioxide gas can evacuate the interior.

And when handling dry ice, use eye protection, keep bare skin to a minimum and use insulated gloves and /or tongs to keep from injuring yourself.

 

[CaptClose]

Actually, in our environment, dry ice doesn't melt, it sublimates, converting directly from solid to gas.

I know it should be obvious and that you already know this, but for those who don't, when using dry ice in an enclosed space, ensure that you have adequate ventilation. Leave your doors and rear hatches open so that the Carbon-Dioxide gas can evacuate the interior.

And when handling dry ice, use eye protection, keep bare skin to a minimum and use insulated gloves and /or tongs to keep from injuring yourself.

Good point, I had plenty of ventilation working inside the truck with the doors open. However, I did work directly over the gas and you can hear in my video that I was sucking wind trying to find some oxygen. I’m not sure a respirator would work, but if I had to do it again, I might wear one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Keeping it in a bag helps lessen the sucking of carbon dioxide.

 

[Wayne Jacobs]

Good point, I had plenty of ventilation working inside the truck with the doors open. However, I did work directly over the gas and you can hear in my video that I was sucking wind trying to find some oxygen. I’m not sure a respirator would work, but if I had to do it again, I might wear one.

If you're working with small quantities, it shouldn't be needed. Another item of note is that Carbon Dioxide is much denser than air, so it will linger in low spots in the interior until it is forced out of them. Therefore, it would help to have a fan to help drive the gas exchange in the car.

Another point is to do this outside and not inside an enclosed space like a garage with the doors closed.

 

[Dr. John]

A respirator will NOT help when using dry ice. There is nothing to filter out. The dry ice (CO2) is displacing the air and it's oxygen. Leave those doors open.

 

[CaptClose]

A respirator will NOT help when using dry ice. There is nothing to filter out. The dry ice (CO2) is displacing the air and it's oxygen. Leave those doors open.

Good to know!