New Battery, No Click, Starts on Jump

[Cruisin2Ski91]

I’m back to once again tap the wisdom of the Hive Mind.

Recently, I had my ignition and distributor replaced and cleaned up. The truck started first crank no issues. Took it out on Valentine’s Day, and after running some errands, the truck would not start, no click, dome lights would come AAA came out They said the battery was completely dead, it was 10 years old, gave me a jump, and I went and got a new battery. I installed the new battery, and the truck started up first crank, and continue to do so for the next four or five times, I started it. I don’t drive a daily, maybe once a week once every other week this time of year.

Took it out yesterday stopped to get some gas, and when I went to start it again, it did the same thing as before, no click, no sound, no nothing but the dome lights would come on. Put a jump pack on it for a second and it cranked right up. It also started up again when I got home and this am to take the photos.

I’ve seen a couple posts on this before, but nothing quite like this. My suspicions are a parasitic drain somewhere or are the terminals needing some love.

Thanks in advance for all the help, this crew is the best!

 

[JoeW]

What the volt drop on that negative cable?

 

[Seth S]

Fusible link inspection first.

If fusible link looks good check your battery cable condition and starter lead condition.

Is the truck no start on hot but starts fine when cold?

 

[3_puppies]

besides the fusible link
I would also replace the battery cable, the negative looks green on the exposed wires, that will creep down under the insulation and cause issues,
do you have jumper cables? run them from the battery to the end points and see what happens. that is how I found a bad cable many years ago

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

Fusible link inspection first.

If fusible link looks good check your battery cable condition and starter lead condition.

Is the truck no start on hot but starts fine when cold?

Sorry for the dump question, but what would the fusible link look like if it’s bad vs good? Also, why cold start but not when engines warm?

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

besides the fusible link
I would also replace the battery cable, the negative looks green on the exposed wires, that will creep down under the insulation and cause issues,
do you have jumper cables? run them from the battery to the end points and see what happens. that is how I found a bad cable many years ago

When you say the "end points" do you mean disconnect the battery from the cables and just connect it with the jumpers and see what happens?

 

[MANUCHAO]

Yeah that negative cable looks to be corroded... def get a new negative cable as this corrosion can go under the insulation and create resistance.
I know is a new battery, but have it load tested... just cause it shows 12.6vdc on the voltmeter, don't equals a good battery
EDIT: Also check for loose grounds to frame....

 

[3_puppies]

When you say the "end points" do you mean disconnect the battery from the cables and just connect it with the jumpers and see what happens?

use the jumper cables in the same place that the 2 battery cables go, no need to disconnect existing.
X2 on making sure grounds are clean and tight

 

[CruiserTrash]

Agree with all of the above:

1. Visually check and verify connections (battery to ground, battery hot terminal, battery to starter, starter to frame). After that's done, have somebody try to start the truck. If it doesn't start, try wiggling some of those cables while the friend turns the key. If it starts when you're doing that, then you know a cable connection is suspect. (only grab the cables by their insulated coating, NOT the bare metal, and don't touch the sheet metal of the truck with your body while doing this)

2. Get out your multimeter and test continuity on each of the three fusible link wires. Wiggle wile you do so to make sure it's not an intermittent connection.

3. If the starter isn't doing anything, try banging on it with something like a big metal pipe. Does it start now? There's your problem, probably a bad plunger or worn out brushes. How old is the starter anyway? Ever been replaced?

4. Parasitic drain could be at play here, but those are rare and difficult to track down. Spend your time on the easy stuff above to rule it out. Then test for current drain with a multimeter.

If the fusible link is causing issues, you've got options: track down a used replacement (new ones are discontinued), find somebody to rebuild them (I occasionally do that for folks), or ... I sell an entire kit that replaces the fusible link with a fuse panel and fuses that are easy to find at the auto parts store.

3 Puppies mentioned the cable corrosion. A mud user named "fourrunner" makes a nice battery cable set (that includes a starter cable).

 

[Seth S]

Sorry for the dump question, but what would the fusible link look like if it’s bad vs good? Also, why cold start but not when engines warm?

When they are bad they are usually either crumbling apart or full of corrosion or stained with black streaks from overheating or the wires look awful

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

Agree with all of the above:

1. Visually check and verify connections (battery to ground, battery hot terminal, battery to starter, starter to frame). After that's done, have somebody try to start the truck. If it doesn't start, try wiggling some of those cables while the friend turns the key. If it starts when you're doing that, then you know a cable connection is suspect. (only grab the cables by their insulated coating, NOT the bare metal, and don't touch the sheet metal of the truck with your body while doing this)

2. Get out your multimeter and test continuity on each of the three fusible link wires. Wiggle wile you do so to make sure it's not an intermittent connection.

3. If the starter isn't doing anything, try banging on it with something like a big metal pipe. Does it start now? There's your problem, probably a bad plunger or worn out brushes. How old is the starter anyway? Ever been replaced?

4. Parasitic drain could be at play here, but those are rare and difficult to track down. Spend your time on the easy stuff above to rule it out. Then test for current drain with a multimeter.

If the fusible link is causing issues, you've got options: track down a used replacement (new ones are discontinued), find somebody to rebuild them (I occasionally do that for folks), or ... I sell an entire kit that replaces the fusible link with a fuse panel and fuses that are easy to find at the auto parts store.

3 Puppies mentioned the cable corrosion. A mud user named "fourrunner" makes a nice battery cable set (that includes a starter cable).

This is awesome! Thanks for the steps. I have to go out of town this week/weekend but can check this next weekend and will report back. I have started it the past two mornings and again when I got home. I'm a noob, but why would it start cold and then not start up when warm but does when connected to a jump pack? Is it because it completes the connection whereas the issues you spelled out would disrupt that connection? Is it a heat issue?

 

[Seth S]

If your truck starts fine once its cooled off and doesn't restart when its up to temp and then shut off....then very likely the starter solenoid trigger wire that comes from the ignition switch has degraded and is unable to supply the solenoid with enough power to trigger. A common repair for this is to install one of many different fender mounted relays that get triggered by the old wiring but then supply more power from the battery through new heavier wires.

 

[CruiserTrash]

If your truck starts fine once its cooled off and doesn't restart when its up to temp and then shut off....then very likely the starter solenoid trigger wire that comes from the ignition switch has degraded and is unable to supply the solenoid with enough power to trigger. A common repair for this is to install one of many different fender mounted relays that get triggered by the old wiring but then supply more power from the battery through new heavier wires.

What he said.

I'll add that the plunger or brushes may not be doing what they need to do when the starter is hot. Metal expands when hot and tolerances shrink, stuff binds.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I added a jumper to the starter from the body ground and that issue went away...

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

If your truck starts fine once its cooled off and doesn't restart when its up to temp and then shut off....then very likely the starter solenoid trigger wire that comes from the ignition switch has degraded and is unable to supply the solenoid with enough power to trigger. A common repair for this is to install one of many different fender mounted relays that get triggered by the old wiring but then supply more power from the battery through new heavier wires.

@CruiserTrash Okay, so I think it's heat soak. It has started every morning. Then today I started it, drove to work, and four hours later, started it in one crank to drive home. Once in the home garage, I turned it off and it wouldn't start (same no crank). I went out one hour later and it started right up.

So from least skilled to most skilled, I think these are my options:
1) Heat shield or wrap the starter (is that viable)
2) Relay you mentioned
3) Replace starter
Am I missing anything.

 

[John McVicker]

I 2nd what @Seth S said in post 12. Wire it to a relay & you will get a FULL 12v when you turn the key. Same a using a jump starter.

I’ve used this relay to starter on my shared Daily Driver 40 & 60. Immediately solved my same issue. And it’s a permanent fix.

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

I 2nd what @Seth S said in post 12. Wire it to a relay & you will get a FULL 12v when you turn the key. Same a using a jump starter.

I’ve used this relay to starter on my shared Daily Driver 40 & 60. Immediately solved my same issue. And it’s a permanent fix.

Any relay you suggest/have a link to?

 

[John McVicker]

Any relay you suggest/have a link to?

These are on Amazon. I’ve used them, good product. EDIT: These are the relays I used when I did what we are suggesting you do. Did this in 2018 and not an issue since then.

 

[Cruisin2Ski91]

These are on Amazon. I’ve used them, good product. EDIT: These are the relays I used when I did what we are suggesting you do. Did this in 2018 and not an issue since then.

View attachment 4106546

Awesome, thanks! Next dumb question, is there a video or step by step guide anywhere to show me how to install this?

 

[John McVicker]

I’m sure there is…try google.