- Thread starter
- #321
Welcome to the thread!
Extreme humidity probably.
Share some pics of your 1976 FJ40. The more pics in this thread the better
Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Aussie Alaskan
- Start date
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Extreme humidity probably.
Share some pics of your 1976 FJ40. The more pics in this thread the better
- Thread starter
- #323
So I'm borrowing shop space over the weekends to do my larger painting in. The shop is set up with an industrial 120 gallon NAPA brand air compressor. Very nice and actually surprisingly quiet too.
When I've painted in my garage I've used a combination of smaller compressors. Basically three pancake compressors daisy chained to give me good CFM at 25-30 PSI.
Ended up buying a larger Husky 30 gallon compressor that will work instead of daisy chaining smaller ones, but haven't used it yet since I've gotten access to the shop space.
My gun is a $60 Kobalt gun I bought 2nd hand from a guy locally and you can get them at Lowe's.
Welcome to the thread!
Extreme humidity probably.
Share some pics of your 1976 FJ40. The more pics in this thread the better
Some old pics.
Crossing a creek up in Georgia long ago.
Playing in the mud.
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I repainted it couple of times.
I added the blue paint stripes when I took it to South America.
I added the blue paint stripes when I took it to South America.
For the Trans Amazon Rally.
Dug it out of my shed.....
Now it sits like this.......
- Thread starter
- #327
Cleaned all the old over spray from the rear curved glass windows. Also cleaned the seals and used some silicone spray to help soften them and lubricate them. Should be ready fo reinstallation once the rear side panels are painted. Exciting!
Should be painting the side panels next weekend if all goes well.
Question for the group: what color were the rear heat shields painted from the factory? Mine seem to be original and probably have never been removed or repainted and they were in primer only. One of the POs sprayed an asphalt bedliner on the entire underside of the body, but under that it seemed that the underside of the entire body was only in primer.
Anybody have an unmolested FJ40 and can tell me if the underside of the body was painted in color? And are the heat shields also in body color?
Thanks!
Should be painting the side panels next weekend if all goes well.
Question for the group: what color were the rear heat shields painted from the factory? Mine seem to be original and probably have never been removed or repainted and they were in primer only. One of the POs sprayed an asphalt bedliner on the entire underside of the body, but under that it seemed that the underside of the entire body was only in primer.
Anybody have an unmolested FJ40 and can tell me if the underside of the body was painted in color? And are the heat shields also in body color?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #328
Another question:
My FJ40 came with a 2nd set of rear curved glass, but they are noticeably smaller than what I pulled out of my hard top side panels. Are these smaller curved windows not Toyota? Or do they go on a different year or model of hard top?
Any help is appreciated
My FJ40 came with a 2nd set of rear curved glass, but they are noticeably smaller than what I pulled out of my hard top side panels. Are these smaller curved windows not Toyota? Or do they go on a different year or model of hard top?
Any help is appreciated
- Thread starter
- #329
One more step on the slow journey towards completion. As if completion will ever be reached
- Thread starter
- #330
Finally diving into the front wiring harness. Adding a couple of wires for the tac as well as some power for an accessory fuze panel in the glove box.
Putting 2lb/ft mass loaded vinyl down on the floor as well as the firewall to soak up some of the road and engine noise.
While bolting parts and pieces on im being very intentional to use white nylon washers to space the metal apart. Hopefully this will keep water accumulation and rust at bay for decades.
Putting 2lb/ft mass loaded vinyl down on the floor as well as the firewall to soak up some of the road and engine noise.
While bolting parts and pieces on im being very intentional to use white nylon washers to space the metal apart. Hopefully this will keep water accumulation and rust at bay for decades.
- Thread starter
- #331
Hardtop, windshield and other assorted parts in paint.
Reusing the old badging. I like how its worn and not shiny new. Goes well with the new paint.
.Reusing the old badging. I like how its worn and not shiny new. Goes well with the new paint.
- Thread starter
- #332
Progress. Slow but steady.
Trying to wrap the underside of the transmission cover with the Mass Loaded Vinyl too. Best I've come up with is to Velcro it up in there. Fingers crossed it will stay long term. Should block a ton of noise if I can get it to stay out there.
Trying to wrap the underside of the transmission cover with the Mass Loaded Vinyl too. Best I've come up with is to Velcro it up in there. Fingers crossed it will stay long term. Should block a ton of noise if I can get it to stay out there.
- Thread starter
- #333
The mass loaded vinyl on the underside of the transmissions tunnel cover with heavy duty Velcro seems to be doing the trick.
Other than that, it's a slow process of putting everything back together "one piece at a time" I've got that old Johnny Cash song running through my head when I'm out working on the FJ40.
Other than that, it's a slow process of putting everything back together "one piece at a time" I've got that old Johnny Cash song running through my head when I'm out working on the FJ40.
RevISK
SILVER Star
What is “mass loaded vinyl”?
Edit: never mind, looked it up.
Why did you go this route instead of dynamat or lizard skin or…?
Edit: never mind, looked it up.
Why did you go this route instead of dynamat or lizard skin or…?
- Thread starter
- #335
I used a combination of dynamat to absorb the vibrations of the steel, and then the MLV to stop the sound waves.
Dynamat and Lizard skin are predominantly vibration reducers. And I didn't want to spray anything on that I wouldn't be able to check underneath for corrosion. I only put dynamat on the firewall and other vertical surfaces where water wouldn't collect and eventually rust. The dynamat should absorb much of the "druminess" of the steel body. Then the MLV will stop the actual sound waves from the engine and road noise.
Did a decent amount of research before I settled on this plan, and I'm hoping it threads the needle between cost, rust and effectiveness.
Also, the MLV just lays on the floorboards. It can easily be pulled up if the vehicle gets wet inside. That way everything can dry out. Again, with the long term effects of moisture/rust in mind.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Great explanation, thanks for that.
I found some thin horse mat like material that I am essentially doing the same, laying loosely in the cab.
I’ll be curious how the adhesive on the Velcro holds up with the heat on the trans tunnel.
Your build has been really fun to follow.
Ian
- Thread starter
- #337
Thanks Ian. It's been a journey!
The adhesive on the Velcro is rated for up to 150 F and I stuck it directly to the painted steel of the transmission tunnel. The super glue I used to glue the Velcro to the MLV is rated up to 176 F. The Velcro adhesive wasn't compatible with vinyl so I used super glue
. I was using some 3/4" thick gym mat before painting the body and it worked fine. Wasn't perfect, but it absorbed a bit of sound and quite a bit of the heat from the floor.
