-- New 85 BJ70 3B Owner Looking for Turbo Upgrade -- (1 Viewer)

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I dont mean to come off hateful and my apologies in advance for being so blunt but, it sounds like you read a lot of info on various online forums and try to make decisions based on other peoples opinions. The problem is everyone has an opinion and at a certain point the opinions get further and further from the facts. It's time for a reality check. You should speak to someone with actual hands on experience with the engines you're interested in.
For instance, installing a 6bt in a 70 series or even more so a 5bt like you mentioned just isn't going to happen. I'm not familiar with this 5bt but, the 6bt is too large and if a 5bt is taller than you can forget it without cannibalizing that truck beyond recognition.

"Freon in an intercooler"? what is this "double squeeze turbo" you keep mentioning and where do you come up with these ideas? I've never heard this term before, is it referencing some sort of compound turbo set up? What are your intended purposes for this truck? Do you plan on doing some sort of mud racing with it? These modifications don't seem realistic and very extreme unless you are doing some sort of racing. If not, there is no need for compound turbo chargers. Most of the engines mentioned (12ht, 15bft, 13bt etc are capable of propelling the truck quiet comfortably at todays speed limits with the exception of the 3b turbo. What is your skill level at fabrication or what is your budget? Do you plan on doing this work yourself or paying someone to do it? I don't know what info you based your decision on that a 12ht has more torque than a 15bft for instance? The larger factor to consider is that the 15bft will bolt into your existing chassis mounts and the 12ht will require a heck of a lot more fabrication and a new transmission. I believe the parts supply for a 15bft is much better than for a 12ht. Yes there are ton of 12ht builds in AU and they are much more common there but parts like rockers, shafts, cams, etc are wear items that cant be purchased new anymore.

Also the things you read about a 3b cracking heads at 20 lbs of boost is B.S. like alot of the other stuff you are reading. The boost doesn't crack the heads the heat does which generally comes from over fueling. The engine cant shed the heat which it was never designed to make once the additional fuel is added. It is not so much an issue of coolant capacity or temp but problem of airflow and ability for the cylinder head to shed the heat from the precups.

salty coconuts mentioned a 15bfte....I would steer clear of the electronic controlled version of any of the Toyota engines unless you want to spend more money and time on the electrical portion of your conversion than the conversion itself.
 
In the interests of fairness if vehicles are over 24 years old then you don't have to use the CAT / DPM / EGR / SCR .. Why don't you want these items on your engine ? .. Because it will help to extend the life of the engines .. If EGR's are deployed the recycled exhuast that is routed back to the intake .. The biggest takeaway from the video whether you have a modern vehicle or a vehicle that does not require one the Engine Oil Bypass filter will help your oil to be free of spent diesel contaminates .. The 1 micron 1World Engine Oil Bypass Filter will keep your engine oil clean and reduce engine wear .. This very well could improve the R2.8 engine sleeve wear as mentioned in the post above .. This has yet to be proven but everyone has seen dirty diesel oil, right ? The filter claims that you won't see black oil come out of the bottom of your vehicle ..

 
I dont mean to come off hateful and my apologies in advance for being so blunt but, it sounds like you read a lot of info on various online forums and try to make decisions based on other peoples opinions. The problem is everyone has an opinion and at a certain point the opinions get further and further from the facts. It's time for a reality check. You should speak to someone with actual hands on experience with the engines you're interested in.
For instance, installing a 6bt in a 70 series or even more so a 5bt like you mentioned just isn't going to happen. I'm not familiar with this 5bt but, the 6bt is too large and if a 5bt is taller than you can forget it without cannibalizing that truck beyond recognition.

"Freon in an intercooler"? what is this "double squeeze turbo" you keep mentioning and where do you come up with these ideas? I've never heard this term before, is it referencing some sort of compound turbo set up? What are your intended purposes for this truck? Do you plan on doing some sort of mud racing with it? These modifications don't seem realistic and very extreme unless you are doing some sort of racing. If not, there is no need for compound turbo chargers. Most of the engines mentioned (12ht, 15bft, 13bt etc are capable of propelling the truck quiet comfortably at todays speed limits with the exception of the 3b turbo. What is your skill level at fabrication or what is your budget? Do you plan on doing this work yourself or paying someone to do it? I don't know what info you based your decision on that a 12ht has more torque than a 15bft for instance? The larger factor to consider is that the 15bft will bolt into your existing chassis mounts and the 12ht will require a heck of a lot more fabrication and a new transmission. I believe the parts supply for a 15bft is much better than for a 12ht. Yes there are ton of 12ht builds in AU and they are much more common there but parts like rockers, shafts, cams, etc are wear items that cant be purchased new anymore.

Also the things you read about a 3b cracking heads at 20 lbs of boost is B.S. like alot of the other stuff you are reading. The boost doesn't crack the heads the heat does which generally comes from over fueling. The engine cant shed the heat which it was never designed to make once the additional fuel is added. It is not so much an issue of coolant capacity or temp but problem of airflow and ability for the cylinder head to shed the heat from the precups.

salty coconuts mentioned a 15bfte....I would steer clear of the electronic controlled version of any of the Toyota engines unless you want to spend more money and time on the electrical portion of your conversion than the conversion itself.

Thank you for the information regarding the subjects at hand .. Yes, my brother is a mechanic and he calls "A double Squeeze" a compound turbo setup .. So that is where that comes from .. Yes when you run higher waste gate pressures the engine gets hotter .. I assumed everyone would know this was heat related and didn't think it would need explaining ..

The reason for me asking questions and talking about the various motors was to get interaction from the participating members with real world experience ..

Thank you for the information regarding realities of the 15BFT bolt in possibilities .. This will help me decide how to move forward on an engine swap .. I will also steer clear of the electronically controlled 15BFT engines .. Much thanks ..
 
salty coconuts mentioned a 15bfte....I would steer clear of the electronic controlled version of any of the Toyota engines unless you want to spend more money and time on the electrical portion of your conversion than the conversion itself.

I just figured to mention the electronic variant for endless tuning since it seems like he wants POWWWAAAA...:cheers:
 
Completely agree with what @roma042987 said. What exactly are you wanting to do with this cruiser?

That said, "bolt in" options:

3B/3BII - 90hp/160tq
13BT - 120hp, 217tq.(or more, no real numbers on this, the LASRE version shows 130hp/217tq)
14BT - 130hp, (not sure on torque, but guess 230ish)
15BT- 136hp, (not sure tq, probaly 240~250 range)

As you can see, aside from the 3B, there isn't a HUGE difference in HP/TQ numbers in these engines. better turbos/intercoolers can make a 13BT easily over a stock 15BT. @Hulsty is pushing 25psi boost and maxxed the fuel, his 13BT seems to run really strong. They all pretty much bolt in, with the exception of the 13BT requiring almost NO mods to anything like oil pans and the like.

I've only slightly turned up fuel, and boost to 11psi and I easily travel 65mph and can pass/overtake just fine. I can reach 75mph but I usually don't as mpg suffer and I think the rig just likes to drive at 65 or under better. I plan on intercooling soon.

I rebuilt my 13BT last year (bought it needing that) I found pretty much everything I needed to rebuild it new, minus the big ticket items, ie block, crank, head, cam. Those you would have to source new. I'm sure 15bt would have more parts availability for the big ticket items.


If you really want to tweak and really up the power, then go 4BT and go hog wild.

@phatman81
What exactly are you wanting to tow in a Bj70 and it's 90" wheelbase?
 
Completely agree with what @roma042987 said. What exactly are you wanting to do with this cruiser?

That said, "bolt in" options:

3B/3BII - 90hp/160tq
13BT - 120hp, 217tq.(or more, no real numbers on this, the LASRE version shows 130hp/217tq)
14BT - 130hp, (not sure on torque, but guess 230ish)
15BT- 136hp, (not sure tq, probaly 240~250 range)

As you can see, aside from the 3B, there isn't a HUGE difference in HP/TQ numbers in these engines. better turbos/intercoolers can make a 13BT easily over a stock 15BT. @Hulsty is pushing 25psi boost and maxxed the fuel, his 13BT seems to run really strong. They all pretty much bolt in, with the exception of the 13BT requiring almost NO mods to anything like oil pans and the like.

I've only slightly turned up fuel, and boost to 11psi and I easily travel 65mph and can pass/overtake just fine. I can reach 75mph but I usually don't as mpg suffer and I think the rig just likes to drive at 65 or under better. I plan on intercooling soon.

I rebuilt my 13BT last year (bought it needing that) I found pretty much everything I needed to rebuild it new, minus the big ticket items, ie block, crank, head, cam. Those you would have to source new. I'm sure 15bt would have more parts availability for the big ticket items.


If you really want to tweak and really up the power, then go 4BT and go hog wild.

@phatman81
What exactly are you wanting to tow in a Bj70 and it's 90" wheelbase?

Large camper trailer ..
 
Looking at the 15BFT engines they only came out of a Toyota Bus called the Cruiser and the BDX10 military vehicle that looks a lot like a hummer .. I have found 4 in BDX10 vehicles that are in Japan .. They are in vehicles marked "Parts Only" and are for $10k and they all have automatics in them .. Not sure about their driveability because they say "parts only" ..


The bigger issue as I was just got an email from an Aussie Engine dealer is that the 15BFT are very hard to find (I found some) and the parts are becoming more scarce .. While Toyota did put these engines into their Coaster Buses they only put these in for buses that went to Sinapore, Tasmania, Indonesia and a few other South Pacific countries .. So it looks more and more like I will end up with an R2.8 build .. I understand GM has an 8 speed automatic tranny that will work with the R2.8 with the right after market bell housing ..
 
I just got an email from an Aussie Engine Dealer who said they could source a 12HT and Auto Tranny for $8K Plus shipping .. I've asked for more details including rebuild kit availability for 12HT and complementing tranny's .. I have also asked if they could source a 15BFT engine & tranny so I will get word on that as well .. All and all I didn't think I would be able to get a 12HT or 15BFT engine sourced but with a little perseverance and searching what-da-ya-know .. The BDX10 might have been a way to go to get an engine and transmission .. Now its looking like I'll be able to find a bolt in solution for my BJ70 .. Thanks to all for comments ! ..
 
Keeping engine oil whistling dixie clean clean clean I am going to add a additional Engine oil filter which will extend the life of the oil up to 20k miles ..


To aid in keeping surfaces very low friction I also plan to use Tungsten Disulfide Oil Treatment .. Those who understand chemistry know that Tungsten is a very dense hard metal that when bonded to Sulfur it become very sticky and adheres / bond to surfaces that have friction / heat .. Thus providing a harder surface for those parts which are stressed by temperatures .. The wear properties of this additive will more than double the life of the engine this is due in large part to a phenomenon known as cold welding reduction .. I know their are Molybdenum Disulfide oil treatments but the Tungsten Disulfide was selected by NASA for the space program .. According to a French Study 1/3rd of the Fuel spent is due to friction loss as seen in this paper .. For what its worth I used to use Molybdenum oil additives in the past and can say without a doubt I got ~15% better fuel economy than before ..


Here is an oil treatment I plan to use ..


So it is looking more and more like I will install a Cummins R2.8 Diesel motor .. Still looking for an 8 speed automatic to bolt up to it and a kit because Cummins really hasn't done their homework regarding bolt up of transmissions of any kind with the R2.8 .. If I were Cummins I would source the bits and pieces to accommodate various late model highly efficient transmission auto or manual ..

 
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Toss a 1HD-T in it and call it a day. You'll pay almost the same as a 13B-T and have a "better" motor.
Agree with what Roma said, except I believe a 6BT will physically fit. Just speculation though.

Thanks Tony ! ..
 
Large camper trailer ..


Define large?

@cruiserdan tows a kimberly kamper with his BJ74:

I tow an Australian Kimberley Kamper with mine on a fairly regular basis. Trailer "aggregate mass" is listed as 1,500 KG on the certification label. That would be 3,300 pounds. Roll-out is a bit slow but it is not horrible. On the flats it will run easily 65 to 70 MPH and I have seen 80 on I-70 for a few minutes just to see it if could do it. On decent hills it pulls down to ~48-50 MPH in third. I get around 17 MPG towing. My supercharged 80 handles it a lot better but barely cracks 10 MPG doing it. The 74 has the rubber-necking scale pegged...:grinpimp:

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Very Noice ! ..

I understand that the 13B can be upgraded with Turbo or Supercharger without other upgrades .. Do you use an intercooler ? .. I love this body style .. Something about it's lines .. I'm looking at various engine auto tranny solutions .. I am now heading towards a Cummins R2.8 with some mod's to protect the engine .. If push comes to shove I might go with a head, sleves and piston upgrades because the metallurgy in the R2.8 is not so good .. The R2.8 hasn't had to good a track record in Asia where it was first introduced .. We'll see what happens .. I am attempting to get information about rebuilding the 12H-T, 15B-TF and 1HD-T engines .. If availability of full upgrade / rebuild kits being very important is what will drive my decision ..
 
Very Noice ! ..

I understand that the 13B can be upgraded with Turbo or Supercharger without other upgrades .. Do you use an intercooler ? .. I love this body style .. Something about it's lines .. I'm looking at various engine auto tranny solutions .. I am now heading towards a Cummins R2.8 with some mod's to protect the engine .. If push comes to shove I might go with a head, sleves and piston upgrades because the metallurgy in the R2.8 is not so good .. The R2.8 hasn't had to good a track record in Asia where it was first introduced .. We'll see what happens .. I am attempting to get information about rebuilding the 12H-T, 15B-TF and 1HD-T engines .. If availability of full upgrade / rebuild kits being very important is what will drive my decision ..

the 13B is just a direct injected 3B. So yes you could turbo/supercharge that. I don’t know what actually used the 13B. I think it only came in coaster and dyna

the 13BT is a direct injected turbo diesel, came on the BJ74 and BJ71 only I believe.
You would have better luck with a 14bt as those are newer are cams in a lot of buses, but I wouldn’t turn down a good 13BT if you find one.
The 1HDT would be a killer swap. Tons of power, plenty of support but it will be more work than a B series swap, same as a 12ht. I would rather have a 1HDt/ft than a 12ht.
1HDT conversion for 3B BJ70

There are rebuild kits for 3B, 13BT, 12HT, 1HDT. I used an engines Australia rebuild kit with a chunk of OEM parts as well. Headgasket especially OEM.

it just kind of depends what engine you actually want, what support you want (Cummins wins out here) unless you do a 1HZ Becuase Toyota is still making that engine.
The newest 12ht/13bt is from 1989.

@HDJ73 put a 1hd-fte into a BJ73. Flipping sweet. 180hp stock.
 
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the 13B is just a direct injected 3B. So yes you could turbo/supercharge that. I don’t know what actually used the 13B. I think it only came in coaster and dyna

the 13BT is a direct injected turbo diesel, came on the BJ74 and BJ71 only I believe.
You would have better luck with a 14bt as those are newer are cams in a lot of buses, but I wouldn’t turn down a good 13BT if you find one.
The 1HDT would be a killer swap. Tons of power, plenty of support but it will be more work than a B series swap, same as a 12ht. I would rather have a 1HDt/ft than a 12ht.
1HDT conversion for 3B BJ70

There are rebuild kits for 3B, 13BT, 12HT, 1HDT. I used an engines Australia rebuild kit with a chunk of OEM parts as well. Headgasket especially OEM.

it just kind of depends what engine you actually want, what support you want (Cummins wins out here) unless you do a 1HZ Becuase Toyota is still making that engine.
The newest 12ht/13bt is from 1989.

@HDJ73 put a 1hd-fte into a BJ73. Flipping sweet. 180hp stock.


I really like the 1HDFT engine .. From what I have read the automatic transmissions that come with that engine are quite good as well .. Thank you ! ..
 
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1KD-FTV engine and transmission from Australia at $6k with only 15k miles on the engine and transmission .. The Late Model FJ Cruiser was totaled but the engine and tranny are solid .. I am going to jump on this deal as this engine makes 170 hp @ 3400 rpm, and 260 lb⋅ft of torque .. I don't know yet if I can strip the EGR from the engine but I will do some inquiries .. The ECU should be programmable to disclude the EGR apparatus .. I just need to find a shop to talk to about this kind of a shop .. Any recommendation ? ..
 
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1KD-FTV engine and transmission from Australia at $6k with only 15k miles on the engine and transmission .. The Late Model FJ Cruiser was totaled but the engine and tranny are solid .. I am going to jump on this deal as this engine makes 170 hp @ 3400 rpm, and 260 lb⋅ft of torque .. I don't know yet if I can strip the EGR from the engine but I will do some inquiries .. The ECU should be programmable to disclude the EGR apparatus .. I just need to find a shop to talk to about this kind of a shop .. Any recommendation ? ..

I'd imagine the electronics would be difficult. But, I've never done an engine swap so I can't speak from experience.
 

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