New 100 series owner / member

[orors]

Hello,
Just bought a new 2001 100 series LC.
So far it’s got -
2.5” emu lift
Spc upper control arms
33” BFG
ARB bumper with a wench
A nice list of things the previous owner fixed
Good list of other things not fixed:
Oil leak on the driver side(owner said he had no idea it was leaking and it must be residual from the oil change 100 miles ago)
Red fluid leak on drivers side ( i thinks it’s power steering)
Evap cooler leaking into the passenger cab
Battery cables are crusty
Door locks are only locking and unlocking when it’s under 80 degrees outside.
Ignition barrel is very hard to turn the key
Back up camera not installed ( don’t know how nice one is until you don’t have one)

Already found some answers here and ordered parts.
Thank you,
Gabe

 

[jsigone]

good rig for start point. Leaking oil is likely from Valve cover gasket w high chance of those bolts just loose from heat, like hand tight loose. I did the gasket since I was that far in already and had the part plus didn't want to do the work twice.

Red fluid is likely power steering, these use ATF for steering fluid, double clamp the hoses from the reservoir on the passenger side. It maybe loose and running the fluid the length of the hose. Quick $2 fix and clean up will tell if it worked.

 

[excessive]

welcome ! Great looking rig, great starting platform !

 

[Grumpy Grumperson]

The door lock issue is a cheap fix and fairly simple if you've taken interiors apart before. It does take a bit a time but will only cost $20-30. I did all 4 of mine a couple weeks ago. Took me a few hours because I was reforming the speakers too and there's dry time for that and the motor housing.

Here's a thread on it but there are many more plus lots of solid YouTube videos.

Door Lock Actuator Replacement

I had the normal symptoms of a door lock actuator gone bad (many threads on this) so I went about investigating this issue over the weekend. I was hoping I could find something that could be remedied by a little bit of cleaning / maintenance, but that wasn't the case. Removal of the door...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Trapper50cal]

Nice kick-off point! Welcome to the Land Cruiser Enablers Society.

 

[orors]

Thanks for the heads up on the actuators, just ordered new motors.

Leaking oil is likely from Valve cover gasket

The previous owner had the valve cover gaskets replaced at 170 K miles and currently the LC has 250. This weekend I’ll have some time to clean up the mess under the LC from the oils and have a better idea.

 

[e9999]

Welcome!

 

[Trapper50cal]

The door lock issue is a cheap fix and fairly simple if you've taken interiors apart before. It does take a bit a time but will only cost $20-30. I did all 4 of mine a couple weeks ago. Took me a few hours because I was reforming the speakers too and there's dry time for that and the motor housing.

Here's a thread on it but there are many more plus lots of solid YouTube videos.

Door Lock Actuator Replacement

I had the normal symptoms of a door lock actuator gone bad (many threads on this) so I went about investigating this issue over the weekend. I was hoping I could find something that could be remedied by a little bit of cleaning / maintenance, but that wasn't the case. Removal of the door...

forum.ih8mud.com

This is on my horizon too, I can sense it. The locks work from the fob but the more frequently you actuate them in a row the more tired and in-op they become.

 

[orors]

After cleaning the under side and examining photos and reading posts. I think I found the oil leak coming off a bolt on the oil filter adapter?? Not sure if that’s whats it’s called.

 

[Malleus]

After cleaning the under side and examining photos and reading posts. I think I found the oil leak coming off a bolt on the oil filter adapter?? Not sure if that’s whats it’s called.

View attachment 3400374

View attachment 3400375

That low, it's hard to say whether that is the failure point or not. You'll need to really clean that side of the block so that you're sure the leak isn't traveling down from above.

Any degreaser in a spray bottle will do the trick. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes, and wash it down with water. It's best to clean this way with the engine running, so that the oil is warm; also, high pH degreasers will damage aluminum if left on for too long. Less than 10 minutes won't hurt, but don't leave it on and forget to wash it off. It won't kill anything, but it will pit and look bad.

I follow the degreaser with soap solution (I use Zep industrial purple degreaser and Simple Green, but anything will do; stay away from oven cleaners, unless the parts are disassembled and you can clean and rinse them really well). The soap helps to remove the degreaser solution. Ideally, a weak acid wash (like white vinegar) will work too.

 

[Land Shark]

That low, it's hard to say whether that is the failure point or not. You'll need to really clean that side of the block so that you're sure the leak isn't traveling down from above.

Any degreaser in a spray bottle will do the trick. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes, and wash it down with water. It's best to clean this way with the engine running, so that the oil is warm; also, high pH degreasers will damage aluminum if left on for too long. Less than 10 minutes won't hurt, but don't leave it on and forget to wash it off. It won't kill anything, but it will pit and look bad.

I follow the degreaser with soap solution (I use Zep industrial purple degreaser and Simple Green, but anything will do; stay away from oven cleaners, unless the parts are disassembled and you can clean and rinse them really well). The soap helps to remove the degreaser solution. Ideally, a weak acid wash (like white vinegar) will work too.
View attachment 3401927

Love this stuff. I use it all around the shop and all my vehicles..

 

[orors]

Thanks for the heads up on the ZAP, I’ll give it a try. I just got some cheap stuff. The oil leak had slowed down a lot after I replace the figure 8 gasket on the oil filter housing, But it’s still leaking from some where.

 

[orors]

The zap degreaser worked great. After 2 cleanings, I’m 99% sure the Oil leak is fixed. Hopefully the At-205 will solve the steering gear box leak for a while. The rebuild looks a little out of my skill set.
The door locks were fairly simple thanks to the video on the forum. Felt pretty confident by the 4th door… rush the epoxy cure time and ended up having to re open the door panel cause the plastic came apart.

I could could only get the $40 key I got from the dealer with my vin number to program. The $10 keys I found would not program. Ended up swapping the immobilizer chips on my older keys that wouldn’t turn the ignition in, unless they were in the magic spot.

 

[orors]

Got my drawer box built. I made 2 boxes thinking 1 day May be I’ll reconfigure it. I was planing on using piano hinges for a fold out sleeping platform and the sides by the wheel wells. Does any one have any experience sleeping on the piano hinges and can you feel them through sleeping pads or a foam type mattress? I was thinking of setting them flat with the wood. Just want to see if it was worth the trouble.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Got my drawer box built. I made 2 boxes thinking 1 day May be I’ll reconfigure it. I was planing on using piano hinges for a fold out sleeping platform and the sides by the wheel wells. Does any one have any experience sleeping on the piano hinges and can you feel them through sleeping pads or a foam type mattress? I was thinking of setting them flat with the wood. Just want to see if it was worth the trouble.

View attachment 3417865

View attachment 3417866

You can sleep on the hinges just fine. We use 1/8" pin, .060" leaf hinges. A typical sleeping pad will provide plenty of cushion.

 

[orors]

You can sleep on the hinges just fine.

Thanks for the answer! I like the 2 hinge design on the sleep fold out. It took 6 cutting tries to keep the length as long as I need and be able to fold over the end over with the all seat belts, roof bumps, and rear cup holders.