It took a long time searching for me to come up with the questions I had as a new 100 series owner. Some of you may know me from the 80's section and know that when I am doing a project or researching, as the moderator I would compile other peoples information and provide a concise write-up for the FAQ related to my investigation
Here is an example on Engine oil compilation that would also be applicable here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html
There are also several others in the 80's FAQ that could applicable to the 100 series
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...2011-added-concretejungles-1fze-overhaul.html
I wanted to document the answers I found through extensive searching to compile it into a single place. I'm an engineer, it's my nature.
I would appreciate others correcting, augmenting or expanding to provide a clear answer.
I see many posts that say "search- lots of threads on this" I have been searching for a week and it's very time consuming as there ARE A LOT of threads that come up and many of them have little information. That's why I wanted to compile what I have learned.
Since I am introducing myself to some who don't know me on this forum. I am currently one of the 80's moderators and have a fully built up 80 that I can take anywhere.
I have two daughters who wheel with me, one has an 80 and one has a 99 4runner with IFS. She has been able to go anywhere I have with her IFS. I have learned over the years that the IFS Solid axle argument is moot and it's really the drivers skill. Much like the way that new Callaway Driver hasn't turned me into a great golfer A skilled driver can do a trail with either, each has characteristics that make their handling unique. It was interesting when I went on the Rubicon, that one individual had done it 19 years in a row with an open 40. Skill is more important than the vehicle as long as it has basic capabilities which most any Land Cruiser fits into that category.
My 80 is very nicely built with 35" tires. I have taken it all over the country from The Rubicon, to the Black Hills, to Texas, Moab, Flat Nasty in M and all over Colorado. I am not a web wheeler
Note: Pink sticker courtesy of Mrs. Cruiser Dan
All right, enough of an introduction.
My first question was basic information on the years and what to get. There are excellent links in the 100 Series FAQ for this
This is what I learned, To be clear these are all my opinions and not a "right" or "wrong" answer. I do hope to create discussion so I and others can learn. Thats the whole reason I generate write-ups like this (80 section) is I learn when I am researching, but I learn more when I try and put it all down for others and then the dialogue on what I have written increases the education.
What Year truck should I get?
If you want a stock e-locker look for a 98 or 99. Not all have it though.
ATRAC was included on all post 2000 models
If you want the 5 speed transmission or the later interior and external styling, look for a 2003 to 2007
If you want the VVTI engine (40 hp increase), look for a 2006 or 2007
Many cite transmission problems in 2001-2002, many have no issues
Several have said the improvement with the 5 speed using the gear power band of the engine more effectively is a bigger jump in performance than the 40 hp increase in the with the VVTI engine. Several have posted that the VVTI engine performance is a very notible improvement
There is a big Jump in price for the 03-05 model years and another big jump for the 06-07 model years. A 98-01 100 can be found for around $10K, sometime less depending on mileage and condition. I found 03-05 in the $16K to $30K range depending on mileage and condition. An 07 is typically in the high $30K to mid $40K range
For myself, I narrowed in on the 03- 07 at first. I wanted the 5 speed and liked the newer dash setup and features that started in 03. I looked long and hard for an 06, but it seemed that they were effectively $7K in price bump to an 03/04. The $7K for 40 hp was not a good trade for my personal situation YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) and I selected an 04
Should I get a truck with AHC or not?
Lexus LX470 and SOME later year hundreds have Automatic Height Control(AHC), which is essentially a 2" lift at the push of a button. Many of the posts I read about people using AHC ended ripping it out due to the high cost of fixing it. You do need to install the Slee AHC override to leave it in High. It is unclear to me that it can withstand a lot of off road moderate trail wear for the long term. Some are still using it offroad though and are happy with it.
To me, if your going to only do light to moderate trails on an infrequent basis, AHC may be a great value when looking. It provides flexibility for changing the lift for on and off road driving.
In my opinion based on what I read, if you plan on doing more technical trails or more frequent offroading, then AHC MAY not be the best answer for you. I say may as there is a grey area. If you have an AHC system that is still working fine, then you will be happy with it.
The nice thing about AHC is you can try it and then rip it out if you don't like it and go with a standard lift. If you find a truck for the same price and it has AHC, it might be worth checking out as long as the system is in fully working order unless you know you are going to wheel hard and don't want it to break in the middle of a difficult trail.
Do I need Lockers?
All year 100 series have structural issues relative to the front diff and can break in offroad conditions when put under stress. It's worse on the early 100's.
Adding a Front locker provides structural stability even if you never engage it. This makes the Front Locker an item that should be on the top of your list.
Early 100's came standard with a e-locker and so installing a front locker covers all the bases.
Many 100 series have ATRAC which essentially provide braking to a slipping wheel to ensure power distribution is equal to both tires providing traction. This is different than a locker which physically ties the power to both wheels together no matter the situation. ATRAC only works when it detects slippage.
Based on some recent posts, I found that ATRAC will not function when you engage the brake and the throttle. Why would you do this? There is a technique called Power Braking, where you provide throttle to 1000-2000 rpms in a constant manner and use the brake to control forward movement. This will provide more control as you go over an obstacle. Believe me, if you're doing a difficult trail, this one technique can spare both you and your truck wear and tear.
To me, it's obvious getting a front locker is a no brainer based on the structural issue. The question came down to a rear locker. Since I bought a truck with ATRAC do I really need a rear locker. It really depends on what I want to do with the truck. If I was going to run easy to moderate trails, then I would give the ATRAC a shot as I could always add a rear locker later. This is still an option even if you run more difficult trails. The fact that the ATRAC disengages when you are power braking was enough for me to decide to get a rear locker based on the wheeling I intend to do and my style of driving.
What kind of armor should I get?
Sliders to me are always the most important and first set of armor one should buy. There are many pictures on Mud of people who went out without them. The body damage that can be caused by even a small rock is very expensive and very difficult to fix. This to me is true with any vehicle you plan to wheel
Next is skid plates to protect the underside. Based on what I read, I went with the full set from Slee to protect the various exposed underside components
Front Bumpers are more important than the rear to me. You need to protect damage on the front to keep the engine compartment protected. I learned the value of every day street driving and the front bumper in this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/chit-chat-section/50707-daughterofromer-learned-value-armor-accident.html
Rear bumpers provide more clearance and protection. You will scratch up and damage the rear bumpers, but the potential to leave you stranded from the damage is much less than the front bumper.
I t all depends on what you want to do with your truck and I went the Front, Rear, Sliders and Skid Plates. My 100 is a long term investment and I intend to take care of it and still be able to do the trails I am use to.
What Size Tires Should I get?
Fortunately (or unfortunately) my truck came with 33" AT's so I didn't have to make the choice. I am running 35" tires on my 80 and really the only place I feel that helped was the Rubicon and possibly Holy Cross (in Colorado) Although, the right driver and line could have done that with 33's and some members of our group did. I might have gone to 35's though if It didn't have the brand new 33's on it.
35's obviously require a lift. Some may require wheel spacers or other modifications. Bump stops and flare trimming might be required to ensure damage doesn't occur when turning or hitting bump stops while at full extension upward. 35's may drive some to re-gear. 35's have the potential to put more stress on the mechanical components creating opportunities for breakage.
33's easily work without re-gearing and should still have a lift if going off road to ensure clearance from the tire to the body and components. 33's will take you most of where you want to go.
Course 35's look cooler and give you an effective additional 1" of lift. Who can argue with that. I noticed some have selected a 34": tire that provides a good compromise.
This is still an area I am researching to determine what I want to do for the long term. For the short term, I will stay with the 33's and see how they perform.
What kind of tires depends on what you want to do? This FAQ from the 80's section is very applicable here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/114057-tire-right-me-faq-tire-information.html
Should I re-gear?
I am still trying to decide this. Based on the experience with my 80, if you go to 35's regearing is the right thing to do from an on/off road perspective
My dilemma is I have decided to add front and rear lockers. While both differentials are torn apart it's easy to regear. It adds cost to regear later after I have done the front lockers.
Do I intend to go 35" tires? If I did for sure I would re-gear. I am not sure and so I am trying to decide. One option is to hold off on the lockers, at least the rear until I do decide
This is the one thing I am still undecided on and will continue to research. Fortunately, I am heading up camping/wheeling with a couple of 100 owners. several of them have re-geared and I know of one who has not. I will be taking my 80 (don't get the 100 til Monday) so I won't be able to compare on my own rig
Another question I have still to research is what spare parts should I carry?
I want to be able to fix my truck to get home. On my 80, I carry Front and rear axles, birf,, misc radiator hoses, gaskets and seals to do front and rear axles, EFI, Relays, Fuses, Bailing wire (It is important) and a rear driveshaft.
I'll be resarching as to what is needed here. I know when my daughter busted a CV axle on Stelle Bender, we were able to get her off the trail and home (Effectively in 2WD), but I bought a spare CV axle and put it in her storage drawer.
BTW - Here is a picture of the 100 I am buying
Here is an example on Engine oil compilation that would also be applicable here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html
There are also several others in the 80's FAQ that could applicable to the 100 series
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...2011-added-concretejungles-1fze-overhaul.html
I wanted to document the answers I found through extensive searching to compile it into a single place. I'm an engineer, it's my nature.
I would appreciate others correcting, augmenting or expanding to provide a clear answer.
I see many posts that say "search- lots of threads on this" I have been searching for a week and it's very time consuming as there ARE A LOT of threads that come up and many of them have little information. That's why I wanted to compile what I have learned.
Since I am introducing myself to some who don't know me on this forum. I am currently one of the 80's moderators and have a fully built up 80 that I can take anywhere.
I have two daughters who wheel with me, one has an 80 and one has a 99 4runner with IFS. She has been able to go anywhere I have with her IFS. I have learned over the years that the IFS Solid axle argument is moot and it's really the drivers skill. Much like the way that new Callaway Driver hasn't turned me into a great golfer A skilled driver can do a trail with either, each has characteristics that make their handling unique. It was interesting when I went on the Rubicon, that one individual had done it 19 years in a row with an open 40. Skill is more important than the vehicle as long as it has basic capabilities which most any Land Cruiser fits into that category.
My 80 is very nicely built with 35" tires. I have taken it all over the country from The Rubicon, to the Black Hills, to Texas, Moab, Flat Nasty in M and all over Colorado. I am not a web wheeler
Note: Pink sticker courtesy of Mrs. Cruiser Dan
All right, enough of an introduction.
My first question was basic information on the years and what to get. There are excellent links in the 100 Series FAQ for this
This is what I learned, To be clear these are all my opinions and not a "right" or "wrong" answer. I do hope to create discussion so I and others can learn. Thats the whole reason I generate write-ups like this (80 section) is I learn when I am researching, but I learn more when I try and put it all down for others and then the dialogue on what I have written increases the education.
What Year truck should I get?
If you want a stock e-locker look for a 98 or 99. Not all have it though.
ATRAC was included on all post 2000 models
If you want the 5 speed transmission or the later interior and external styling, look for a 2003 to 2007
If you want the VVTI engine (40 hp increase), look for a 2006 or 2007
Many cite transmission problems in 2001-2002, many have no issues
Several have said the improvement with the 5 speed using the gear power band of the engine more effectively is a bigger jump in performance than the 40 hp increase in the with the VVTI engine. Several have posted that the VVTI engine performance is a very notible improvement
There is a big Jump in price for the 03-05 model years and another big jump for the 06-07 model years. A 98-01 100 can be found for around $10K, sometime less depending on mileage and condition. I found 03-05 in the $16K to $30K range depending on mileage and condition. An 07 is typically in the high $30K to mid $40K range
For myself, I narrowed in on the 03- 07 at first. I wanted the 5 speed and liked the newer dash setup and features that started in 03. I looked long and hard for an 06, but it seemed that they were effectively $7K in price bump to an 03/04. The $7K for 40 hp was not a good trade for my personal situation YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) and I selected an 04
Should I get a truck with AHC or not?
Lexus LX470 and SOME later year hundreds have Automatic Height Control(AHC), which is essentially a 2" lift at the push of a button. Many of the posts I read about people using AHC ended ripping it out due to the high cost of fixing it. You do need to install the Slee AHC override to leave it in High. It is unclear to me that it can withstand a lot of off road moderate trail wear for the long term. Some are still using it offroad though and are happy with it.
To me, if your going to only do light to moderate trails on an infrequent basis, AHC may be a great value when looking. It provides flexibility for changing the lift for on and off road driving.
In my opinion based on what I read, if you plan on doing more technical trails or more frequent offroading, then AHC MAY not be the best answer for you. I say may as there is a grey area. If you have an AHC system that is still working fine, then you will be happy with it.
The nice thing about AHC is you can try it and then rip it out if you don't like it and go with a standard lift. If you find a truck for the same price and it has AHC, it might be worth checking out as long as the system is in fully working order unless you know you are going to wheel hard and don't want it to break in the middle of a difficult trail.
Do I need Lockers?
All year 100 series have structural issues relative to the front diff and can break in offroad conditions when put under stress. It's worse on the early 100's.
Adding a Front locker provides structural stability even if you never engage it. This makes the Front Locker an item that should be on the top of your list.
Early 100's came standard with a e-locker and so installing a front locker covers all the bases.
Many 100 series have ATRAC which essentially provide braking to a slipping wheel to ensure power distribution is equal to both tires providing traction. This is different than a locker which physically ties the power to both wheels together no matter the situation. ATRAC only works when it detects slippage.
Based on some recent posts, I found that ATRAC will not function when you engage the brake and the throttle. Why would you do this? There is a technique called Power Braking, where you provide throttle to 1000-2000 rpms in a constant manner and use the brake to control forward movement. This will provide more control as you go over an obstacle. Believe me, if you're doing a difficult trail, this one technique can spare both you and your truck wear and tear.
To me, it's obvious getting a front locker is a no brainer based on the structural issue. The question came down to a rear locker. Since I bought a truck with ATRAC do I really need a rear locker. It really depends on what I want to do with the truck. If I was going to run easy to moderate trails, then I would give the ATRAC a shot as I could always add a rear locker later. This is still an option even if you run more difficult trails. The fact that the ATRAC disengages when you are power braking was enough for me to decide to get a rear locker based on the wheeling I intend to do and my style of driving.
What kind of armor should I get?
Sliders to me are always the most important and first set of armor one should buy. There are many pictures on Mud of people who went out without them. The body damage that can be caused by even a small rock is very expensive and very difficult to fix. This to me is true with any vehicle you plan to wheel
Next is skid plates to protect the underside. Based on what I read, I went with the full set from Slee to protect the various exposed underside components
Front Bumpers are more important than the rear to me. You need to protect damage on the front to keep the engine compartment protected. I learned the value of every day street driving and the front bumper in this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/chit-chat-section/50707-daughterofromer-learned-value-armor-accident.html
Rear bumpers provide more clearance and protection. You will scratch up and damage the rear bumpers, but the potential to leave you stranded from the damage is much less than the front bumper.
I t all depends on what you want to do with your truck and I went the Front, Rear, Sliders and Skid Plates. My 100 is a long term investment and I intend to take care of it and still be able to do the trails I am use to.
What Size Tires Should I get?
Fortunately (or unfortunately) my truck came with 33" AT's so I didn't have to make the choice. I am running 35" tires on my 80 and really the only place I feel that helped was the Rubicon and possibly Holy Cross (in Colorado) Although, the right driver and line could have done that with 33's and some members of our group did. I might have gone to 35's though if It didn't have the brand new 33's on it.
35's obviously require a lift. Some may require wheel spacers or other modifications. Bump stops and flare trimming might be required to ensure damage doesn't occur when turning or hitting bump stops while at full extension upward. 35's may drive some to re-gear. 35's have the potential to put more stress on the mechanical components creating opportunities for breakage.
33's easily work without re-gearing and should still have a lift if going off road to ensure clearance from the tire to the body and components. 33's will take you most of where you want to go.
Course 35's look cooler and give you an effective additional 1" of lift. Who can argue with that. I noticed some have selected a 34": tire that provides a good compromise.
This is still an area I am researching to determine what I want to do for the long term. For the short term, I will stay with the 33's and see how they perform.
What kind of tires depends on what you want to do? This FAQ from the 80's section is very applicable here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/114057-tire-right-me-faq-tire-information.html
Should I re-gear?
I am still trying to decide this. Based on the experience with my 80, if you go to 35's regearing is the right thing to do from an on/off road perspective
My dilemma is I have decided to add front and rear lockers. While both differentials are torn apart it's easy to regear. It adds cost to regear later after I have done the front lockers.
Do I intend to go 35" tires? If I did for sure I would re-gear. I am not sure and so I am trying to decide. One option is to hold off on the lockers, at least the rear until I do decide
This is the one thing I am still undecided on and will continue to research. Fortunately, I am heading up camping/wheeling with a couple of 100 owners. several of them have re-geared and I know of one who has not. I will be taking my 80 (don't get the 100 til Monday) so I won't be able to compare on my own rig
Another question I have still to research is what spare parts should I carry?
I want to be able to fix my truck to get home. On my 80, I carry Front and rear axles, birf,, misc radiator hoses, gaskets and seals to do front and rear axles, EFI, Relays, Fuses, Bailing wire (It is important) and a rear driveshaft.
I'll be resarching as to what is needed here. I know when my daughter busted a CV axle on Stelle Bender, we were able to get her off the trail and home (Effectively in 2WD), but I bought a spare CV axle and put it in her storage drawer.
BTW - Here is a picture of the 100 I am buying
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