Need some help 84 BJ45 3B engine

[shmukster]

OK, I bought this BJ45: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-toyota-land-cruiser-bj45-diesel-3b-4cyl-rhd-pickup-ute.822576/ Got it home without incident. Pretty solid truck, condition pretty much as described in the for sale blurb. First thing I looked at was the starting problem. This thing wouldn't turn over fast enough to start even with a jump. I found a very bad connection in the negative cable ciscuit of the battery and repaired that problem. Tested the battery it was Ok but very low on charge, charged it fully. Got the starter rebuilt and she turned over fine. After a bit of cranking it started up and I was able to put a few miles on it. Turned the key off and she shut off just like it should. There are other electrical issues with the truck but they are with accessories- lights, radio, etc.

Two days later went to start it and the battery was completely dead. Figured there was a draw somewhere with the key out of the ignition switch, charged the battery, and after a bit of cranking she fired up. Shazaam all is well. Drove it a bit and shut it off. Today it won't start, battery is OK. I looked unfder the hood and the EDIC arm is not moving- it's in the shutoff position and I assume this means it is not allowing fuel to enter the pump. Forgive my ignorance- I now very very little about diesels.

In the wiring to the EDIC is the electrical box shown in the attached pictures. It has there wires going into it- one ground, one 12V, and one that someone has wired so it is 12V hot. I would assume the EDIC should get 12V somewhere when you're trying to start the engine but not all the time. Again the EDIC is not working at all but did the other two times I had the engine running. I've been trying to buy a schematic for the truck but had two offers- one was $400 another $150, a lot of money. Can someone tell me what the electrical box does? It looks like it was hot and melted its plastic cover. has a bunch of resistors in it. Mine may be smoked. I'd also like to know what the control wiring to operate the EDIC should be. Any help or advice would be sincerely appreciated by this diesel dummy! Thanks in advance. Gary S

 

[alberta mac]

looks like you should have two batteries ! the wiring harness looks jerry built with those fuse's there. I would start with getting two new big cca batteries and see , then check your grounds.
Nice truck ! how many miles on her ? it should have power steering and a 5 speed if it's an 84

 

[lostmarbles]

I'm not sure a factory schematic will help you...

This is an FJ45 that someone has converted to diesel using their own EDIC control wiring/devices.

All these things are not OEM:

With that mess, I'd recommend ditching all your EDIC components and swapping to cable operation (of that little lever on your IP).

Searching MUD should show you how others have done it..

Meanwhile, to run your cruiser, just remove (unclip and extract) your control arm between your EDIC motor/gearbox and IP. That will put your IP arm in the run position. In this position your engine should start and run but not stop. To stop it, either stall it in gear (which is a bit rough on a diesel because of the high idling torque) or lift the hood and move the lever by hand forward into the fuel-cutoff/stop position.

 

[shmukster]

For now i disconnected the makeshift electrical control component for my EDIC, removed the rod between the EDIC and the pump, and she started right up. Stalled it to shut off. For now in the interest of keeping the truck mobile that's the way it will stay until I see what all is there and what i am missing (correct EDIC relay possibly). Thanks for all the input! Gary

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Just curious about that EDIC control box. How did you determine it's hooked to the EDIC? Continuity test or just visual inspection?

I ask because the wiring on the inner fender/guard looks a lot like it's attached to the wires dangling over your front bumper. I have something similar on my 82 BJ42 from NZ. My wires all are setup to allow the vehicle to be towed and connect to the tow vehicle's wiring for turn signals and brake lights. I had a similar box filled with diodes to prevent current from flowing to the wrong places in the lighting circuits.

Also, regarding the parasitic battery drain, it looks like you removed the heavy gauge wires that were in the negative battery cable circuit mounted to some kind of switch on the firewall?

I have the 1981 factory service wiring diagrams. I think the EDIC portions should be the same in 85. I can scan/email them to you.

 

[watrob]

Man, that wiring is kaos, usually if you convert from petrol to diesel one tries to get a diesel wiring harness, in the long run it makes life a lot easier when you have to start searching for faults.

 

[shmukster]

Yes the apparently home made EDIC control box was connected directly to the EDIC. Had three wires coming out of it going to the EDIC- red, white, and yellow. Looks like the box contained three relays and a bunch of diodes. The wires going into the control box were two fused 12V positive and a ground wire.

I'm no electrician but can usually troubleshoot car and truck problems. What a snakes nest this thing is/was! In any event I removed it from the truck, the EDIC is no longer powered. Truck starts and runs fine and I hust manually mov the lever to shut it off. Not practical for everyday use but OK while I am shaling down the truck getting it ready for registration and normal driving.

Looks to me like when a previous owner was trying to track down the battery drain problem they re-did the battery ground circuit and ran it through the switch you saw mounted on the firewall. The switch was operated through the glovebox with a plastic key. I removed the wiring from that switch and it is no longer functional. The PO had also installed a very strong Interstate battery- 830 CCA. The slow turning over problem I believe was caused by a very bad electrical connection in the battery negative ciscuit. One cable end was frayed badly, with a lot of blue coloring. Had apparently been bad for awhile. Pictures attached of the bad neg connection and the "control box" with the cover removed. This box had generated a lot of heat and had melted the plastic housing quite a bit.

I believe the EDIC is good and I just need to get the correct wiring for it. I would sincerely appreciate seeing a scan of the EDIC wiring circuit, please send to me shmukter@pa.metrocast.net.

The wires near the front bumper are for the auxiliary lights and two different block heaters.

When i said this truck had other electrical gremlins, I meant it. One of the large driving lights works, the other dioesn't. The small fog (?) lights do not work. The license plate light does not light. The stereo isn't working. All of those problems are fixable and I never buy an older truck without expecting problems to address. I could use a break in the weather (cold!!! here) to get some more time to address the issues. I'll get there to be sure. Thanks again for all the inoput and comments.

 

[shmukster]

One more picture of the control box.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I believe the EDIC is good and I just need to get the correct wiring for it. I would sincerely appreciate seeing a scan of the EDIC wiring circuit, please send to me shmukter@pa.metrocast.net.

I would source an OEM EDIC relay if you possibly can. I don't know how useful the factory diagram is with that box, since I have no idea what it really is.

The EDIC motor is controlled by the EDIC relay. The EDIC motor isn't as simple as just receiving an "on" or "off" signal. The EDIC relay alters the voltage to the three wires to position the EDIC motor in the correct position. The EDIC relay does receive the signals that control the engine. Off the top of my head they are Key ON/OFF/START, and oil pressure. The EDIC relay then interprets those inputs and sends the correct voltages to the EDIC motor to command it to move to the correct position. The EDIC motor doesn't get power all the time, only when the EDIC relay commands it to move to a new position.

Make any sense?

I think there's a scan of the EDIC wiring on my build thread (FJ-40 with 3B/Turbo) somewhere.

Dan

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Gary.

You're doing very well with getting this vehicle back to a reliable state.

I note you've headed this thread "84 FJ45 3B"

We all know an FJ was petrol-powered by the factory.

Assuming "FJ" wasn't a typo (and that you really do have an FJ45 with a 3B transplanted into it), which vehicle (model and production date) does your 3B transplanted engine originate from (assuming your EDIC motor is original to it)?



(This info is necessary for knowing which wiring diagram you need and for determining the part number of the matching EDIC Relay (aka Fuel Control Relay) that you need to get..

 

[shmukster]

OK, another update. FJ45 in the header is a typo on my part. I bought the truck as a BJ45. According to the ID plate on the firewall the truck is indeed a BJ45. From the title: VIN 2BG30211845004428 1985 Toyota diesel. Hmmmmmm
Was doing some more electrical cleanup yesterday and got the radio working in the ACC and ON positions of the key. While the heater duct was out to access some wiring (remember this is a RHD truck) I saw that there is a glow plug relay on the firewall. There is also a rectangular connector in the passenger side that is not connected to anything. I believe it has eight wires going to it and I have a suspicion it may be for the EDIC relay. I'd love to find the right relay for this truck and hopefully get working in the manner originally intended. If anyone has a relay available or knows where I might find one please let me know. Thanks, Gary

 

[watrob]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/strange-edic-fuel-control-relay-woes-please-help.326014/

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dm...oration-and-information-thread.414576/page-26

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2h-and-edic-questions-help.600315/page-2

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-plugs-should-i-be-running-b-2b-3b-h-and-2h-diesels.471567/


If you read these threads you will get an understanding how the Pre-Heat Timer Relay (glow plug relay) and the Fuel Control Relay ( edic motor relay) works, and also how and what type of glow plugs your engine has.

There are photos of the relays you need & wiring diagrams as well, then when you ask a question you will understand the answer that is given.

There are also part numbers so you will know which relay will suit your engine, the above is a great resource.

 

[shmukster]

Watrob- thanks for all the links! I'll check them out and become educated. Thanks again. Gary

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Gary.

A 12 volt 1984 BJ45 should be running:

28571-56120 MOTOR, FUEL CONTROL, and matching
28590-57010 RELAY ASSY, FUEL CONTROL (aka EDIC Relay)

So you may be able to find a label with 28571-56120 on your EDIC motor ... And then you'll need to source 28590-57010

And they come up from time to time on eBay as shown here. . (And it looks like this one never sold.)

I suggest searching for it on the Internet.

If you had one fitted, it should be located just to the left of your glovebox so I guess that is where you found that connector..



Oh yeah.... 1983 BJ4# series EDIC wiring (which should match how yours originally was):

 

[shmukster]

Yes the connector I thought should go to the relay is on the left side of the truck adjacent to the glove box. Looked on EBay and found this one made in the Czech republic: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-EDIC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae10648fd&vxp=mtr Take a look and see what you think. Price is reasonable and maybe the replacment is as good as or better than the original? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Gary

 

[whitey45]

Gary, I parted an 84 bj60 a few years ago and have a box of relays somewhere, I will go have a look and see if the numbers match, you are welcome to any 3b stuff I have left.

 

[lostmarbles]

Yes the connector I thought should go to the relay is on the left side of the truck adjacent to the glove box. Looked on EBay and found this one made in the Czech republic: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-EDIC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae10648fd&vxp=mtr Take a look and see what you think. Price is reasonable and maybe the replacment is as good as or better than the original? Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Gary

Maybe you should run a thread on it and see if you can find anyone that's tried one Gary..

From appearances it looks good to me but I'm no electronics expert by any stretch of the imagination.

The price is reasonable too but I note that if you buy one of these you'll need to be able to fit your old "EDIC-relay connector" onto those wires and I didn't think you had one there (because your original EDIC relay is completely missing is it not?)..

 

[roma042987]

I think I might have your box of relays whitey. I'll check when I get home and gary you are a welcome to those as well.

 

[shmukster]

I'll wait to see what Roma comes up with. Thanks for the offers, guys!

 

[whitey45]

Roma, you might! I still might have some, going to look now!