dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!
- Thread starter dmaddox
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Actually I think "lostmarbles" is the best descriptor for me when all's said and done ....
- Thread starter
- #504
Ok fellas....I am getting really close here. I spent three hours with my electrical engineer buddy and he taught me all about relay's and how they work.
We tested the relay and I want to point something out.
The IG circuit has a transistor related to it.
Take a look at the bottom of the board....It was what he called a PNP transistor (positive negative positive).
We looked up the transistor in the catalog to get a reference and pin configuration:
Removing the relay and transistor:
The IG relay and transistor removed:
New relay (not oem looking, but tested as working):
Old one:
Installed a new transistor and relay.....brought it home.
Disconnected the oil pressure sender....plugged in the "repaired" relay.....went over and turned the key to ON....arm moved the fuel pump to "D" position. YES!!!!!
I glowed the system......fired it up - watched the arm moved to O.I and back to D. Bam......solved.
Then....I went to shut it off......DANG....now it won't return the arm forward to the "OFF" position.
I think the problem now is this.....I am using a SPST relay (single pole, single tap) - yes I just learned all this tonight.
And.....we took another look. We think the GREEN wire was left out....not sending a signal. (Can you guys verify the GREEN wire is what sends the "shut off" signal?)
This means.....I need a SPDT (single pole double tap) Or is it single PULL - not sure.
As soon as I get the right relay in there.....solved. I am in the process of drawing out the circuit of this unit. That way - anytime any of you have an issue with the FCR - you can fix it, or provide an electric shop with the schematic to fix it.
So close......SO CLOSE!!!!
We tested the relay and I want to point something out.
The IG circuit has a transistor related to it.
Take a look at the bottom of the board....It was what he called a PNP transistor (positive negative positive).
We looked up the transistor in the catalog to get a reference and pin configuration:
Removing the relay and transistor:
The IG relay and transistor removed:
New relay (not oem looking, but tested as working):
Old one:
Installed a new transistor and relay.....brought it home.
Disconnected the oil pressure sender....plugged in the "repaired" relay.....went over and turned the key to ON....arm moved the fuel pump to "D" position. YES!!!!!
I glowed the system......fired it up - watched the arm moved to O.I and back to D. Bam......solved.
Then....I went to shut it off......DANG....now it won't return the arm forward to the "OFF" position.
I think the problem now is this.....I am using a SPST relay (single pole, single tap) - yes I just learned all this tonight.
And.....we took another look. We think the GREEN wire was left out....not sending a signal. (Can you guys verify the GREEN wire is what sends the "shut off" signal?)
This means.....I need a SPDT (single pole double tap) Or is it single PULL - not sure.
As soon as I get the right relay in there.....solved. I am in the process of drawing out the circuit of this unit. That way - anytime any of you have an issue with the FCR - you can fix it, or provide an electric shop with the schematic to fix it.
So close......SO CLOSE!!!!
Dallas,
I don't know (can't see) what kind of relay you have put in but the old one has 2 (actualy 3) contacts. The "a" to "b" position is NC (Normaly Closed) so the relay switches from "" b" to "c" position. If the "b" leg is not present in the new relay then there will be no "off" situation. I'm not good in putting this in English so..... HELP asked from somebody who can put it more clear here.
Rudi
I don't know (can't see) what kind of relay you have put in but the old one has 2 (actualy 3) contacts. The "a" to "b" position is NC (Normaly Closed) so the relay switches from "" b" to "c" position. If the "b" leg is not present in the new relay then there will be no "off" situation. I'm not good in putting this in English so..... HELP asked from somebody who can put it more clear here.
Rudi
x 2
I think you've explained it pretty well already Rudi
With this relay we need both "make" and "break" pairings (as far as the switching contacts are concerned).
I did a Google search and the right identifying for the "old" relay is: SPDT.
Single Pole Double Tap.
Another lesson learned, and that at my age! YAHOO!!!
Rudi
Edit: According to Wikipedia the correct name is: Single Pole Double Throw and not Tap but it's a T anyway.
Single Pole Double Tap.
Another lesson learned, and that at my age! YAHOO!!!
Rudi
Edit: According to Wikipedia the correct name is: Single Pole Double Throw and not Tap but it's a T anyway.
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Nice Job on the relay fixin. But in the end I rather a cruiser that won't shut off then won't start, at east it will get you home to granny.
If you want to see where the cluster donner is, look up Arviat, NU there's there's a complete 3B engine there for the takes all you have to do is go get it.
If you want to see where the cluster donner is, look up Arviat, NU there's there's a complete 3B engine there for the takes all you have to do is go get it.
I can say I'm thoroughly impressed by your work! And I mean all of you guys! Dallas, I admire your tenacity!
I hope your edic woes are over.... This is quite educational since i'm in the middle of an 81 bj42 resto myself!
Keep up the good work!
I hope your edic woes are over.... This is quite educational since i'm in the middle of an 81 bj42 resto myself!
Keep up the good work!
Dallas: you are the man for diving into this.
There is no specific "OFF" signal. If there is not an ON signal, or a START signal, the EDIC relay assumes you want it off. Which explains why you want a SPDT relay in there--the EDIC relay itself converts the lack of ON/START signals into an off signal internally.
Dan
There is no specific "OFF" signal. If there is not an ON signal, or a START signal, the EDIC relay assumes you want it off. Which explains why you want a SPDT relay in there--the EDIC relay itself converts the lack of ON/START signals into an off signal internally.
Dan
this whole thread is going to make my life so much easier over the next 9 months while I rebuild my rig..thanks Dallas..did you get the stuff I sent you??? I think that exhaust deserves a yahoo too!
D
D
Dallas..what's the update?? Is it all working properly?
D
D
Heya! I am on vacation this weekend, and will be hitting it hard come Monday. I found the SPDT relay, just need to solder it on to test the system.
My priority is getting the 3B starting, idling, stopping. Then, I'll move onto the rest of the electrical. Once all of that is sorted out....I'll label it all and continue stripping down for paint.
I am getting really excited!
EDIT: Obviously I am on my brothers computer....ha ha ha. Woops. (Dmaddox)
My priority is getting the 3B starting, idling, stopping. Then, I'll move onto the rest of the electrical. Once all of that is sorted out....I'll label it all and continue stripping down for paint.
I am getting really excited!
EDIT: Obviously I am on my brothers computer....ha ha ha. Woops. (Dmaddox)
- Thread starter
- #517
As I get deeper into this project I am changing my mind on a few things.
1. The welded drivers floor I am just going to replace. It looks too sloppy for me.
2. Are the body bolts all supposed to have double nuts on them?
3. From the factory were the frames Satin/Gloss/Flat black?
4. From the factory were the tie-rod-ends satin/gloss/flat black or raw metal silver?
5. This is the first late model cruiser I have worked on (79+) are there only 6 bolts holding the tub to the frame? Two in the rear channel and two at the bottom of each a-pillar with two about mid-way? Am I missing any others?
thank you
1. The welded drivers floor I am just going to replace. It looks too sloppy for me.
2. Are the body bolts all supposed to have double nuts on them?
3. From the factory were the frames Satin/Gloss/Flat black?
4. From the factory were the tie-rod-ends satin/gloss/flat black or raw metal silver?
5. This is the first late model cruiser I have worked on (79+) are there only 6 bolts holding the tub to the frame? Two in the rear channel and two at the bottom of each a-pillar with two about mid-way? Am I missing any others?
thank you
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Good to see that you've rekindled your enthusiasm Dallas. I bet it's connected with solving all your main wiring/electrical issues and hearing your diesel engine running.
Pretty sure the answer is "gloss black" to both of these questions Dallas. But the undercarriage paint was thin and not very durable so lost it's gloss fast and didn't stick around long in stone-impact areas.
(Unless I'm mistaken, gloss paints are always the hardest-wearing too.)
- Thread starter
- #519
Ok my friends....I am excited to be making this particular post due to the hours of research spent in working on this EDIC system and it's related wiring.
As you know, my EDIC relay was fried and here is what I have been up to:
Here is the STOCK on-board relay and the AFTERMARKET on-board relay I will be using (I hate the word aftermarket...but it was all I could find to work fellas, forgive me): R22-5D16-24
A to B is normally closed, A to C is normally open.
The inset picture is from the factory literature on the aftermarket relay:
Soldered - SORRY it's not pretty, but it's CORRECT and PROTECTED:
See the two transistors here? The one with the tab on top is the one that relates to the RELAY I am working on. I had to replace this little guy. Test yours by doing a continuity test between the legs, if you get a "beep", it's bad. IF you get resistance, that is good!
Installed back onto the mounting plate:
Cover on:
Ready to install, with a zip-tie on the dongle, as the factory did:
I then hooked up the REBUILT relay . . .and decided to test.
I was so excited I forgot to glow it!
BJ42 EDIC in action - YouTube
As you know, my EDIC relay was fried and here is what I have been up to:
Here is the STOCK on-board relay and the AFTERMARKET on-board relay I will be using (I hate the word aftermarket...but it was all I could find to work fellas, forgive me): R22-5D16-24
A to B is normally closed, A to C is normally open.
The inset picture is from the factory literature on the aftermarket relay:
Soldered - SORRY it's not pretty, but it's CORRECT and PROTECTED:
See the two transistors here? The one with the tab on top is the one that relates to the RELAY I am working on. I had to replace this little guy. Test yours by doing a continuity test between the legs, if you get a "beep", it's bad. IF you get resistance, that is good!
Installed back onto the mounting plate:
Cover on:
Ready to install, with a zip-tie on the dongle, as the factory did:
I then hooked up the REBUILT relay . . .and decided to test.
I was so excited I forgot to glow it!
BJ42 EDIC in action - YouTube
Awesome dude! I love it. I hope my engine compartment looks that nice when I'm done!