Sorry guys, had to put the Dryer back together last night, the seals had gone out and the rollers and the heating element burned out. So that was priority at my house with a 3 year old and a 3 month old in the house.
Glad to hear you got the dryer back in service!
The
is probably much happier!
That is exactly the pin I have. I will spin the shaft tonight and see if there is play at the pin. As I recall it does easily slip in. Should it slip in? Who knows, hole could be a tad worn of course, but by no means was it a tight fit that I can remember. I didn't like the fact that the pin was kind of long, and with two cotter pins on it, it becomes kind of gangly.
I'm with you on the fact that it looks like it would be pretty "gangly". Definitely interested to see what you have in terms of "play" or movement at the yoke/input shaft/shear pin location....
Yours is probably smeared just enough from shearing that the pin will not fall out. You should be able to see the holes on the drive shaft half though.
Well I certainly have the holes that are empty on the yoke/drive shaft. But looking through the holes on each side of the yoke, I have been unable to spot the actual pin which is still left in the input shaft. Your theory sounds very good though that it could have "smeared" making it difficult to just "fall out"....but what if it's the original pin and the original pin did fit snug??
No idea. I just wonder if the pins "should" be a little loose, or if they should actually fit snug, requiring a bit of a tap in with a hammer and drift?? Loose sounds smart...who could or would want to be bothered with the amount of work necessary to that kind of pin replacement on the trail? But then again, I worry about the add'l "play" that might be there with a loose shear pin and the add'l issues that might cause at the yoke/input shaft/shear pin joint...
You have to pull the winch to get the u-joint and shaft out right behind the winch, because of the way it passes through front frame member. The winch itself is very heavy.
Wow - did not know this! Was looking at it last night, and it looked like if I pulled the pillow block off of the frame, it might all come down and apart. So how do people replace that u-joint then? Just disassemble the joint with the shaft mounted and in place?
I definitely don't want to pull the entire winch, that's for sure!
My shear pins slip in easy. It only makes sense it would. The last thing you want to deal with while winching is trying to use a punch to drive out a broken shear.
That makes sense, but see my concerns above...
never had an overun problem as soon as the wheels grab i put the t case in neutral and use the winch to wind up the cable.if the winch jumps into gear while you are driving you will have a mess ,i usually leave the winch clutch in neutral also.my brother in law ran over a tire and it hit the winch shifter underneath the truck and he was driving 40 + miles an hour when the hook caught the bumper .oh what a feeling.
Running the transfer case in 4 low for power at the wheels does seem to make sense, as long as you put it back into neutral as soon as you get traction. Never really considered or heard of anyone winching this way, but it makes sense and could be done as long as you are alert and attentive....which you better be anytime you are winching, anyway!
Ya, I leave the dog clutch dis-engaged on the winch too. I don't have a neutral gate either on the PTO shifter, I found the detent is plenty strong to hold it in neutral. May still make something though, I made a boot for the shifter, as I didn't have the plate anyways. Would like to make a pin that slides within the boot so it still stays sealed up better but locks in neutral.
Hmmm, never thought of this possibility....guess I always figured the little shifter lock-out gate that comes down over the PTO shifter when in neutral would be sufficient. Maybe I should consider disengaging the winch clutch at the winch itself too??
What could it hurt? Never thought of the possibility that something I run over could engage the linkage from underneath!
Now, as far as the shear pin options, I found
THIS HERE: where there is some talk about Toyota part number 90240-05504. Glenn there describes it as "the upgraded factory shear pin". Now, that thread is 4 years old, but Glenn mentions how at first he was told nothing exists for that part number (which is what I was told), but with a little more digging was able to actually get his hands on some from Vancouver?
Wondering if they may still be available and if so, what they might be like in comparison to the
90255-04001 pictured above that MoCo has?? 
But from the sound of that thread, it won't be the right one.
Always nice to be able to go and compare first-hand and know I'm ordering/getting the right part. But then again, if I can rule out the 04371-10011/PUJ395, then I guess I know the 04371-60020 is the one I need...
)
