Need more lift

[DWDTOY]

I'm back working on dream again. Once again I need a little advice. I have a 72 FJ40 with the following: spring over, shackle reversal, Downey shackles, power steering, ARB in the rear, 4.88 gears, 35's, trail ready beadlocks with stock F engine, Metal Tech sliders / tube doors / grill and light gaurds, stock springs I think, stock 3 speed, and stock transfer case, which all work good since cruiser only has about 75000 original miles.. Three questions to set up for the future: I would like a little more lift so I could run 38's to 40's. What is the best way to get more clearance and keep handling and performance? Lift springs, body lift, trim rear fender, longer shackles or ?????? The other question is about an aftermarket AC/Heater unit. Everyone claims there is the best. Last question is about a winch selection. Any good advice that does not cost a fortune?

 

[spdwaver]

Welcome. Please provide some pictures of that 75K original mile-rig: you should do it soon because I will not be the only one who asks.


Then, make sure you look through the FAQ.

 

[Poser]

1- Remove sheet metal to make the larger tires fit...


2- AC?



3- Warn 8274-50 is all you need to know about a winch. Save your money. The best is not cheap.

 

[slvrbck]

1- Remove sheet metal to make the larger tires fit...


2- AC?



3- Warn 8274-50 is all you need to know about a winch. Save your money. The best is not cheap.

# 1 and #2 go together right? Remove sheet metal for larger tires, and remove doors and top for A/C.

I have heard of a few cruisers that have Vintage Air units. Mostly street rods use them........to each his own I guess.

Vintage Air - Inventors of Performance Air Conditioning - www.vintageair.com

 

[bsmith123]

winch

post up on MUD for the winch or search the classifieds here, also craigslist.

I got my warn 8274 for 500 bucks here on MUD I have seen people get them cheaper also the motors can still be purchased.

I have also seen whole rigs cheap with the winch still on them once in a while. But you have to wait and watch for the deals.


best of luck

 

[green73]

You may be wondering why the suggestion of removing sheetmetal. Here is I think the general idea on that. A simple SOA will fit 37's with a wheelbase stretch, and tire rub is minimal. Many have ran 38's with no issues. The only negative I found with my SOA is sidehilling doesn't feel as comfortable as it did SUA. SOA moves the Center of Gravity (CG) up a bit, and the new found flex combined make the sidehilling that way IMHO. Add more lift on top of that and it's compounded. Removing sheetmetal for larger tires should help bring that CG back into balance. MetalTech has the tube fenders that brings the front fender up to the hood line, and opening the rear wheel openings up is simple cutting. I see in your description you have Downey shackles? Are those the scissor type? If so be careful on downhills with those.

 

[winkle]

If I were to do mine over I would have left it sprung under with 0" lift and 37s I dont have any problem with cutting my tub though. I have a spring over on 37s and it clears them with no issues. My wheel base is out to 100" though. Flip your rear springs so the centering pin is moved farther back and gets the front of your rear tire away from the tub and you should clear 38s with no problem. I would stay away from going too tall. Good luck !

 

[bustanutley]

Funny, I have elaborate and involved plans to lower my already low sprung over truck.

 

[green73]

*VERY confused*

Actually, for the same amount of lift, the SOA would only move the CG up maybe an 1/8" or significantly less(ie the weight of the spring packs)

The disadvantage of SOA vs SUA is the fact that most lift springs are stiff... thus the SOA gives a much softer ride when compared to a SUA.

Thus in sidehill situations, the SOA will lean more than a SUA.

*shrugs*

If I were SOA and considering bigger tires, I'd start cutting sheetmetal AND moving the front fenders upward.

SOA + handling shouldn't be used in same sentence unless there is "poor" or "lots of money" included in it

Winch has been nailed. 8274 is the way to go even though the height can cause cooling issues due to covering up the radiator.

Do a search on Vintage for the AC on mud. I believe they were the one everyone claimed was the most complete and best. But AC in removable top rig?

Yeah I described that wrong. Any lift brings the CG up though, but like you stated the spring rate causes the sidehill effect you cleared up.

If I ever do another FJ40 for trail use I'll stay SUA, but research the successful spring packs of many members here on MUD. I am blown away at how comparable and usable flex some of these SUA rigs are getting.

 

[winkle]

Funny, I have elaborate and involved plans to lower my already low sprung over truck.

Please share !

 

[CruisinGA]

I run 37's and 38.5's with nothing but 4" springs lift springs in an SUA configuration.

Everything about the suspension is stock other than a front and rear spring flip for added wheelbase.

The required fender trimming can be done in an afternoon and only the front fenders are noticeably not stock to the untrained eye.

Super simple, super tough, super cheap. Right up my alley.

 

[D'Animal]

I have a 76 FJ40 with the following: 2F, H42, Rock Box, Orion 3:1, 4" SOR SUA Lift, Extended shackles, power steering, Detroit in the Rear, ARB in the front with Longfields, 4.11's, 35" BFG's, 2" body lift to make room for the twin/triple sticks.

My 35"s rub like crazy. But I do take it on some pretty twisted trails.

When I go to 38"s, it will be done with a saws all, as Poser recommends. My rig only has 68k miles on it so I don't want to cut the sheet metal just yet.

 

[bustanutley]

Please share !

some cutting, some moving, little bit of hammering, and some fancy steering