need help starter/wiring issues (1 Viewer)

[BenLC]

I have a 1973 fj40 I just did a motor swap to put the correct motor back in my cruiser. My issue is that my starter is not starting the engine. It will turn the motor a quarter turn and nothing more. It is acting like it is not getting enough power to turn the motor. Battery is brand new.

What I have tried already is,

1. New ground wire for battery cleaned up the ground and the bolt that holds it there.
2. Did a bench test of the starter at Auto Zone checked out good.
3. Cleaned the contacts on the starter to make sure got a good conection.
4. checked all connections with a meter to make sure they were really working.
5. Disconnected the alternator and all other connections to the battery except starter and fuse block.

I have tried searching but could not find anything on the problem. I may have missed something if so I appologize. I need help to get these motor started thanks in advance for the help

Ben

 

[desertpat]

Engine to Frame Ground

I would suggest grounding the engine block to the frame - using a heavy ground wire like the battery cable. I had a similar problem that went away with this fix.

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

What kind of shape is the positive cable to the starter? You may need to change that. It may be corroded inside and not allowing all the amperage necessary to crank the engine. I changed both cables when I got a new battery. The cables cost about $10.00 for the both.

 

[madoc1]

not sure on a73, but a 76 has two grounds. one from the battery to the frame and one underneath the charcoal canister that runs from the frame to the engine. good luck jim

 

[mdjohnsen]

Does this apply with a Chevy 305? Because I am having electrical issues as well that might stem from a poor ground.

 

[CruisinGA]

have you tried turning over the engine by hand a few times?

ditch the stock starter and get one for an FJ60. Bolts in and about 3 times better.

 

[BenLC]

Desertpat, where did you attach the ground on the engine block?
Colorado, I will try that tonight
Cruisin, what do I need to feel when turning it by hand?

Thanks Ben

 

[desertpat]

ground place

There was an empty raised face bolt hole on the block below the exhaust manifold - on my 2F. It only took a 1 foot or so long chunk of wire to get it over to the frame. It made a complete and instant difference - and the starter worked normal. I did make sure the wire was contacting metal - not paint. good luck.

 

[bigsandy]

i also had auto zone test my starter, and they said it was good. starter would turn but very sluggish, until it caught on fire. got a new one ( re-built i think) from napa for about $80. starts great now. just my 2c.

 

[Forest_Hill_Crusier]

When you did your motor swap you may have wired something that might have caused Parasitic Amp Draw. If the batterie was hooked up while the fuse block was connected and you had a faulty relay or switch, this would cause draw, wich would drain your batterie without you even knowing. Make sure you new batterie is fully charged useing a voltmeter. You should have at least 12V. If you dont have a voltmeter try jumping it to another batterie/car. If you still have no luck Id bet its your starter. If the wires,cables, connections and solenoid are good (and motor) the started is the cause of your problum. Like bigsandy said..."until it caught on fire. got a new one ( re-built i think) from napa for about $80. starts great now. just my 2c."

If you still have no luck let me know and ill walk you through a starter current-draw test, wich will tell you if your starter is good or not...good luck