Need help removing brake drum!
- Thread starter Dauntless
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Release the damn parking brake
- Thread starter
- #23
Drum rotates freely...Release the **** parking brake
Yep those parking brakes will do it to you every time
Probably, but not that I'm aware of.....pics might help though?
- Thread starter
- #26
Are you trying to tell me that the parking brake will have something to do with the drum sticking, even when the drum rotates freely?Yep those parking brakes will do it to you every time
When I get home from work I will take some pics.
He's just saying that people trick themselves with the parking brake all the time.
NorCalBorn
10 Year
15 Year
Heck, at this point, try loosening the park brake at the yoke underneath a little. This way if there is any lip b/c of wear you would have a better chance. Then just take a swing at the drum with a BFH and if it's rust-stuck to the flange, it'll have room to move.
At this point it is likely needing a replacement anyhow, why hold back? By now I would've gotten a angle grinder myself and sawed it in half or just yanked the axle out completely..
I think the answer is yes, but the TEQ is on the inside.
WD40 will work the least. PB Blaster or Kroil should do the trick. Also, propane or butane, or in a pinch a heat gun.
- Thread starter
- #30
No worries, I will check out that hand brake idea. I don't see why it will need to be replaced if I can remove it without causing damage?
No worries, I did remove one of the drums, and both seem to be identical. I will check and see if it has any markings.
We all what to know is it OFF? Get a big 
hammer and hit the out of it
Yes sometime brakes will make a lip in the drum even though it rotates freely, put a little heat on the center of the drum then hit it!!!!! Good luck
hammer and hit the out of it Yes sometime brakes will make a lip in the drum even though it rotates freely, put a little heat on the center of the drum then hit it!!!!! Good luck
X2 on the pressing the drums off...
Next time you're around them with a tap, do yourself a favor...
But I have hammered some off before... I hit it straight in and it came off enough to get a pry bar against the flange and just work it off.
Next time you're around them with a tap, do yourself a favor...
But I have hammered some off before... I hit it straight in and it came off enough to get a pry bar against the flange and just work it off.
- Thread starter
- #33
Nah the drum isn't off yet, I'm at work. I'm thinking my options now are either:
1 - Use a paint scraper and wire brush to clean out around the hub and drum as much as possible, soak with a lot of WD40, and then beat the crap out of the drum with a sledge
2 - Buy a puller. The largest I can buy is 8", but I could make it 10-11" by cutting and drilling some flatbar.
3 - Buy or borrow some sort of heat source.
4 - Remove the entire brake and axle assembly. Nowhere in town can get brake line clamps, so I would have to wait until Friday to get to a town which stocks them.
And yes I will have the holes tapped while the drums are off, if this one comes off intact. Otherwise I will try to source some drums which already have these holes tapped.
1 - Use a paint scraper and wire brush to clean out around the hub and drum as much as possible, soak with a lot of WD40, and then beat the crap out of the drum with a sledge
2 - Buy a puller. The largest I can buy is 8", but I could make it 10-11" by cutting and drilling some flatbar.
3 - Buy or borrow some sort of heat source.
4 - Remove the entire brake and axle assembly. Nowhere in town can get brake line clamps, so I would have to wait until Friday to get to a town which stocks them.
And yes I will have the holes tapped while the drums are off, if this one comes off intact. Otherwise I will try to source some drums which already have these holes tapped.
Our you can ship it to USA and we can get r dun but it might take a year to get it back
but it might take a year to get it back
- Thread starter
- #35
That doesn't sound very cost effectiveOur you can ship it to USA and we can get r dun
I wish i was in your neck of the woods to give you a hand. So were are the pics? That is the only way we can work it out for you. Go have a 
- Thread starter
- #37
Will take pics after I get home from work.I wish i was in your neck of the woods to give you a hand. So were are the pics? That is the only way we can work it out for you. Go have a
do you guys have q-tips over there?
break it in half and push the stick part up into the brake line.
don't shove the cotton part all the way in, just so it is against the flare.
a bit of tape around the end just to keep it from falling out.
put tape over cotton end of Q tip before you try to put it in.
electric tape, about a 4 inch piece.
put in q tip, stick tape to itself on each side of brake line.
you will still have to bleed them when done.
bleeding.
need jar
need two sections of vacuum line that will fit over bleeder valve.
need little 8 or 10mm box end wrench.
a little bit of grease.
drill two holes one on each side of the jar lid, so that the vacuum line fits tight in the holes. don't shove them to the bottom, just through the lid.
put box end on bleeder.
break loose bleeder.
put grease around the bottom of the bleeder valve.
put hose on bleeder.
loosen bleeder up.
use a vacuum of some sort on other hose.
or just suck on it, just don't let the jar fall over and get a mouth full of break fluid.
break it in half and push the stick part up into the brake line.
don't shove the cotton part all the way in, just so it is against the flare.
a bit of tape around the end just to keep it from falling out.
put tape over cotton end of Q tip before you try to put it in.
electric tape, about a 4 inch piece.
put in q tip, stick tape to itself on each side of brake line.
you will still have to bleed them when done.
bleeding.
need jar
need two sections of vacuum line that will fit over bleeder valve.
need little 8 or 10mm box end wrench.
a little bit of grease.
drill two holes one on each side of the jar lid, so that the vacuum line fits tight in the holes. don't shove them to the bottom, just through the lid.
put box end on bleeder.
break loose bleeder.
put grease around the bottom of the bleeder valve.
put hose on bleeder.
loosen bleeder up.
use a vacuum of some sort on other hose.
or just suck on it, just don't let the jar fall over and get a mouth full of break fluid.
Yep, think I would have pulled the axles by now also....
- Thread starter
- #40
Yeah I'll have to buy clamps or use the q-tip method or something.