Need help removing brake drum!

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Good info thanks. I just soaked it in some more WD40. Photos should be up in the morning, though not sure how useful they will be. There are no TEQ logos stamped anywhere on the drums that I can see. All I see is the maximum size of 256mm, and "2 9 G" I think it is.
 
hey i know that with my 92 pickup that there are 2 holes across from eachother that are in between the studs. they bolts should thread into the hole im not sure wat size the bolt is but that is how i got mine off.
 
WD40 is great for cleaning water out of flooded distributors and oiling up saw blades, but otherwise worthless as a rust penetrant. Get something better than that, something like Kroil or PB Blaster.
 
hey i know that with my 92 pickup that there are 2 holes across from eachother that are in between the studs. they bolts should thread into the hole im not sure wat size the bolt is but that is how i got mine off.
We've already established that my ute doesn't have those.

WD40 is great for cleaning water out of flooded distributors and oiling up saw blades, but otherwise worthless as a rust penetrant. Get something better than that, something like Kroil or PB Blaster.
Those products aren't sold over here. I will try more Inox I guess.
 
Has anybody said to try and release the brakes from the back yet?

If they're adjusted out and there's a lip on the drum, turning the adjuster in might help...
 
I think he said he had already released the adjuster.
 
Just pry on it till it comes off you may :censor: up the back a little but it can be fixes. You got to do what you got to do:meh:
 
Has anybody said to try and release the brakes from the back yet?

If they're adjusted out and there's a lip on the drum, turning the adjuster in might help...
I definitely have turned the adjuster all the way in.

I think he said he had already released the adjuster.
Yup.

Just pry on it till it comes off you may :censor: up the back a little but it can be fixes. You got to do what you got to do:meh:
Yeah I have tried that but neither the drum or the backing plate will flex enough to bend. I have bought some different style pry bars now, so I can probably **** something up with those LOL

I think i'd rather cut the drum in half than have to replace a backing plate.
Yeah, though I'm a bit worried about cutting a drum in half, it looks like it would be easy to grind through important components behind the drum. I have been told that if I grind a small section out of the shoulder of the drum, then give it a hard hit, the drum will crack in half. Is this true?
 
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:lol: Sorry, had to at this point. :lol: :flipoff2:

I would grind on two sides 180 degrees apart from each other.....down to just before breaking through the metal and then beat with hammer.

But pulling the axles is still easier.

Yep, that'll git 'r dun! Just cut the sides, don't bother with the face, unless you find it's still seized.
 
Weld two chains on both sides of the drum and go find a elephant, tell it to pull hard:D Don`t forget to chain the otherside:rolleyes:
 
WD40 is great for cleaning water out of flooded distributors and oiling up saw blades, but otherwise worthless as a rust penetrant. Get something better than that, something like Kroil or PB Blaster.
napa sells stuff called brakleen that works really nice i use it but not sure if it is sold where you live
 
No, he needs a penetrate.

What he really needs to do is get his butt back out in the garage and try some of our suggestions, and get the damned thing off. I'm beginning to believe this is just a hoax.

As the saying goes: Pics, or it didn't happen!
 
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