Need help removing brake drum!

[Dauntless]

Hi guys,

Today I started to take apart the rear end of my 1982 Hilux LN46 4x4, to replace the wheel bearings and fit an Aussie Locker.

The left drum came off easily, but I am having problems removing the right drum.

I have:

1 - Backed off the adjustment as far as it will go, so the shoes are not dragging the drum.

2 - Rotated the drum backwards a few turns, I was told this might help?

3 - Hit the drum hard with a hammer/mallet etc. on the shoulder area.

4 - Used a pry bar between the drum and backing plate.

5 - Sprayed solvent degreaser everywhere I possibly could, and loads of it, then tried 3 and 4 again.

I read somewhere that the drums are meant to have two threaded holes for bolts to go into, to push the drum off. However my drums have 6 plain holes (no threads).

What should I do next?

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Spray mating surfaces with penatrant and let soak?

Not sure how easy (or smart) this would be, but if the above doesn't work, is there enough surface exposed beyond the backing plate that you could get some purchase on the drum with a bottle jack inserted sideways?

Butt

 

[askeyey]

Best thing I found on my truck was a couple generous wacks with a dead blow hammer...it eventually pops off. I'm not a fan of prying against the back plate.

 

[Rambrush]

On the axle hub there on the outside have you sanded or filed it down smooth? no mushroomed areas there?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

You might try pulling the axle out of the housing and dropping it onto the lug studs (with a piece of wood to protect them)... Or get a really big puller. But usually if it's not the brake shoes holding it on, then it's just the rust that is being a pain. Beat on it with a rubber mallet and try some heat.

 

[KLF]

Is the drum stuck to the axle shaft? Or is it already moving a bit?

You have to pull the axles out anyway, so might as well do it now. Disconnect the brake line, remove the 4 nuts on the backing plate, slide it out. If you're sure the shoes are not hanging up on a "lip" on the inside edge of the drum, then slam it straight down on a big chunk of wood. Use the weight of the drum to pop it free.

Prying on the backing plate will only bend the crap out of the backing plate and ruin it.

 

[cruiser88]

small jack under the drum?

 

[Dauntless]

Spray mating surfaces with penatrant and let soak?

Not sure how easy (or smart) this would be, but if the above doesn't work, is there enough surface exposed beyond the backing plate that you could get some purchase on the drum with a bottle jack inserted sideways?

I did spray it with a lot of Inox (like WD40 but better). Seems to have made no difference, after about 4 applications over 24 hours.

Best thing I found on my truck was a couple generous wacks with a dead blow hammer...it eventually pops off. I'm not a fan of prying against the back plate.

I did try this too, no luck.

On the axle hub there on the outside have you sanded or filed it down smooth? no mushroomed areas there?

I haven't sanded or filed anything. I'm not sure how you'd get mushroomed areas there?

You might try pulling the axle out of the housing and dropping it onto the lug studs (with a piece of wood to protect them)... Or get a really big puller. But usually if it's not the brake shoes holding it on, then it's just the rust that is being a pain. Beat on it with a rubber mallet and try some heat.

I have been trying to buy a drum puller, but no luck with that. I can't even find any on Australian ebay. I have no way of applying heat to it.

Is the drum stuck to the axle shaft? Or is it already moving a bit?

You have to pull the axles out anyway, so might as well do it now. Disconnect the brake line, remove the 4 nuts on the backing plate, slide it out. If you're sure the shoes are not hanging up on a "lip" on the inside edge of the drum, then slam it straight down on a big chunk of wood. Use the weight of the drum to pop it free.

Prying on the backing plate will only bend the **** out of the backing plate and ruin it.

Hard to say. If I pry I can get some flex but I don't know if it's the drum or the backing plate that is flexing. Maybe a bit of both. I guess I will look at removing everything in place as a last resort. I wasn't able to pry hard enough to do anything like bend the backing plate, etc.

small jack under the drum?

I could give this a go, though I am a bit worried about the truck coming off the jack stands if I do this.

Any other ideas guys?

 

[cruiser88]

I do it all the time....the drum is not going to move much upward anyway....just make sure the truck is sitting on jackstands

 

[Dauntless]

OK I just tried that, 4 times. I turned the drum 90 degrees each time. And each time it simply jacked up the axle clear of the stand.

 

[cruiser88]

jesus.........remove the axle

 

[bailey1972]

you should have to holes on the drum . inbetween the studs u should find 2 bolt holes find a bolt that fits it will compress itself and come out

 

[bailey1972]

on my trunks it works

 

[Dauntless]

I read somewhere that the drums are meant to have two threaded holes for bolts to go into, to push the drum off. However my drums have 6 plain holes (no threads).

you should have to holes on the drum . inbetween the studs u should find 2 bolt holes find a bolt that fits it will compress itself and come out

As above.

 

[Dauntless]

jesus.........remove the axle

I might have to

 

[missouriman]

the center of your drum is stuck on the axle.
take a small scraper and work around the axle where it comes through the drum.
small screw driver will work also. wire brush. you get the idea.
heat on the drum will expand it also and drive penitrating oil into that gap.

or if the drums were spray painted on the axles that will also hold you up pretty good.

 

[raydouble]

Wire brush the hub center + you need a bigger hammer.

If those drums don't have the M8 x 1.25 bolt holes.....I don't think it can be an OEM drum........never actually seen one without the threaded holes.

 

[Dauntless]

the center of your drum is stuck on the axle.
take a small scraper and work around the axle where it comes through the drum.
small screw driver will work also. wire brush. you get the idea.
heat on the drum will expand it also and drive penitrating oil into that gap.

or if the drums were spray painted on the axles that will also hold you up pretty good.

Sounds like a plan, I'll buy a scraper today and some more Inox or WD40 and try that. If that doesn't work I'll have to figure out some way of applying heat.

Wire brush the hub center + you need a bigger hammer.

If those drums don't have the M8 x 1.25 bolt holes.....I don't think it can be an OEM drum........never actually seen one without the threaded holes.

Hmm. It has an original 196,000km and has been in my family since almost new, I don't remember it having any work done to the drums, but I guess it's possible. Perhaps the early drums didn't have the threaded holes?

 

[raydouble]

Hmm. It has an original 196,000km and has been in my family since almost new, I don't remember it having any work done to the drums, but I guess it's possible. Perhaps the early drums didn't have the threaded holes?

Would be news to me.....but possible for sure.

 

[Dauntless]

Would be news to me.....but possible for sure.

Do genuine Toyota drums have any specific markings that I could look for? I can take photos of the ones I have and upload them, etc.