I finally got my rebuilt 2F back in my 86 FJ60 and got it running today. The bad news is it is leaking oil badly from the front timing cover. A drip a second at least. This is deja vu for me. I had the same machinist rebuild my 2F in my FJ40 and it leaked at the timing plate/cover. He made the problem on the FJ40 motor good by knocking $420 off the rebuild of the FJ60, (which is what I paid a local mechanic to fix the FJ40 Oil leak). Other than the oil leaks, the motors are running fine. The machinist has been recommended to me by two major car dealers and I have seen the souped up race car engines that he builds, but obviously he is missing something on sealing the front end. I have the 2F engine repair manual and there is mention of applying liquid sealer to the lower 2 bolts (bolt A). Could this be the secret? I would appreciate any comments on your experiences with oil leaks in this area. Right now, I feel lower than whale s**t.
Need Crying Towel
- Thread starter Heartworm
- Start date
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My machine shop installed the front cover on my rebuild and it leaked. The problem was that the brass nozzle that squirts oil onto the timing gears was threaded into the plate too far. The nozzle stuck out the back side of the plate far enough to keep the gasket from sealing it. I tore the whole thing apart (removed the cam), ground the backside of the nozzle down after making sure it was properly staked in place. Carefulley reassemble the covers making sure that the correct length bolts go in the right holes. Its a scewy asembly but it can be oil tight if assebled correctly.
Bruce is right - your shop bottomed out the squirter.
My guy did that too - bummed me out cause they are a good shop, make all kinds of race engines, so I trust their fundamentals. I redid it myself and they made good w/ me.
I view the squirter as a peripheral PITA that your shop hosed up. Bring them your FSM showing the details about the squirter and ask them how they will make good on this 2F deal...
Sorry!
My guy did that too - bummed me out cause they are a good shop, make all kinds of race engines, so I trust their fundamentals. I redid it myself and they made good w/ me.
I view the squirter as a peripheral PITA that your shop hosed up. Bring them your FSM showing the details about the squirter and ask them how they will make good on this 2F deal...
Sorry!
- Thread starter
- #5
Rebuild cost
Parts: 6 pistons, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, camshaft, lifters, timing set, cam bearings, oil pump, gaskets, valves springs= $903.98. Labor: Disassemble and hot tank, bore and hone cylinders, resurface block square, install cam bearings, regrind crankshaft, recondition 6 connecting rods, recondition cylinder head, valve job, resurface head, assemble everything= $999. Total cost $1902.48. Less the $420 for me getting the last job fixed I wrote the check for $1482.48.
The first 2F that he rebuilt came in at just under $2K also.
Parts: 6 pistons, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, camshaft, lifters, timing set, cam bearings, oil pump, gaskets, valves springs= $903.98. Labor: Disassemble and hot tank, bore and hone cylinders, resurface block square, install cam bearings, regrind crankshaft, recondition 6 connecting rods, recondition cylinder head, valve job, resurface head, assemble everything= $999. Total cost $1902.48. Less the $420 for me getting the last job fixed I wrote the check for $1482.48.
The first 2F that he rebuilt came in at just under $2K also.
- Thread starter
- #7
Time in shop
I took the engine to him on July 11 and got it back on September 3rd. It took him a few weeks to start because of his backlog. I told him I was in no hurry and I did a lot of cleaning and painting. He also did the weld-up of the EGR tube and the exhaust pipe for me.
I took the engine to him on July 11 and got it back on September 3rd. It took him a few weeks to start because of his backlog. I told him I was in no hurry and I did a lot of cleaning and painting. He also did the weld-up of the EGR tube and the exhaust pipe for me.