Need Advice, Anything Helps.

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met

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Nov 20, 2025
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LOCATED 2 HOURS NORTH OF VANCOUVER::: 1995 FZJ80 (210,000miles) blew a headgasket, not sure when but must have had to do some driving on it to at least get home. Working on acquiring a cheapo daily for runs to town so I (mehcanically inclined but not gifted) can work on it myself. I have access to a shop and plenty of tools but maybe missing a few, still amassing resources. Sourcing shop manual on ebay currently. What I may need most is some experienced help, but could use any advice regarding tricks or tips for the process of machining headgasket and taking the dog apart and putting her back together. We can work something out if any of you want to stop by. Thanks in advance for anything and everything.
 
Are you Vancouver BC or WA?
:rofl: gonna guess Canada... otherwise would have just said Olympia?

and to add at least some value to to OP... there are several cases of blown head gaskets where the truck still gets driven some, and then the head gasket is repaired and all is well. So if you're able to do the repair and the truck looks good otherwise, could be a good deal.
 
Download a manual for free in the resources section.
Find a good machinist and make sure they can do a straight 6 dual over head cam and get a rough price should be under 1k machine work and a valve job/seals. It’s not a hard job just takes some organization time and money. The market has cooled off on these so don’t overpay.
 
This topic has been covered many times, so I'd strap in and do some reading for few hours. This is your first post so you'll need to get up to speed. Contact your friends in the Clubhouse section to see who is local then maybe post up there as well.

If you aren't in a hurry, and have the space to do this project, I suggest pulling the engine out and do "other" stuff. Winter has arrived in your neck of the woods, and working on the engine while it's on a stand inside a toasty garage always gets my vote.

Currently, I have a blown head gasket on the 2uz and used this to stop the leak so that I can get through winter before pulling the engine for a proper top end rebuild. Use it if you still need to drive it around until you are properly setup for this lengthy project. I'm assuming you're having a misfire on one of the cylinder and this product stops the stumbling/missing pretty quickly. Again, it's a bandaid, not a permanent fix! Blown Head Gasket Repair (HG-1) - Bar's Leaks - https://barsleaks.com/product/blown-head-gasket-repair-hg-1/

Good luck.
 
Bit of a tangent here, but independent of getting your plan together I'd assess if there is any water/coolant in the oil and deal with that accordingly ASAP so that you don't end up with corrosion damage anywhere problematic (bearings, rings, etc.).

Depending on the situation you may not need to do anything but in some cases coolant left in cylinders or the oil can wreak havoc in the time before repairs are performed. If there is moisture in the engine you can get it out but your options will be varied and can be processed in this thread as needed.
 
Download a manual for free in the resources section.
Find a good machinist and make sure they can do a straight 6 dual over head cam and get a rough price should be under 1k machine work and a valve job/seals. It’s not a hard job just takes some organization time and money. The market has cooled off on these so don’t overpay.
Bought one on ebay, will be nice to have the actual publication but I will see what I can download as well. Closest machine shops seem to be located near the city, will have to find a way to get there.
 
This topic has been covered many times, so I'd strap in and do some reading for few hours. This is your first post so you'll need to get up to speed. Contact your friends in the Clubhouse section to see who is local then maybe post up there as well.

If you aren't in a hurry, and have the space to do this project, I suggest pulling the engine out and do "other" stuff. Winter has arrived in your neck of the woods, and working on the engine while it's on a stand inside a toasty garage always gets my vote.

Currently, I have a blown head gasket on the 2uz and used this to stop the leak so that I can get through winter before pulling the engine for a proper top end rebuild. Use it if you still need to drive it around until you are properly setup for this lengthy project. I'm assuming you're having a misfire on one of the cylinder and this product stops the stumbling/missing pretty quickly. Again, it's a bandaid, not a permanent fix! Blown Head Gasket Repair (HG-1) - Bar's Leaks - https://barsleaks.com/product/blown-head-gasket-repair-hg-1/

Good luck.
Seen things recommending against leakstop products due to the nature of them stopping things other than the leak, if I want to get another life out of the engine after doing headgaskets, will using leakstop products cause me trouble down the road?
 
Bought one on ebay, will be nice to have the actual publication but I will see what I can download as well. Closest machine shops seem to be located near the city, will have to find a way to get there.

Did you get a Toyota manual? Some of the aftermarket ones are not brilliant.

I'll second the comment about Otram's videos. They are an outstanding guide. Combined with the Toyota manual, it's not super complex.

Just be clean and methodical. Take pics. Bag or box parts in groups and label each bundle. If life gets in the way, you'll appreciate the labels in a few months time.
 
Haha no worries thanks for checking in anyway. What would it take to convince you it was a good time of year for a road trip up to Pemberton Valley? BTW just ordered FSM manual off ebay, shows up December 8.
The google machine says 4 hours away but I would bet with traffic you could add a couple more. The area does look very nice but currently dealing with the border crossing would be a hinderance.
 
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Bought one on ebay, will be nice to have the actual publication but I will see what I can download as well. Closest machine shops seem to be located near the city, will have to find a way to get there.
The "actual publication" is what is posted on the Resources forum, on this site.
 
Dropping the front makes things easier.
1764041865251.webp


Mine took a little longer due to the supercharger.
1764041922006.webp
 
Did you get a Toyota manual? Some of the aftermarket ones are not brilliant. I'll second the comment about Otram's videos. They are an outstanding guide. Combined with the Toyota manual, it's not super complex. Just be clean and methodical. Take pics. Bag or box parts in groups and label each bundle. If life gets in the way, you'll appreciate the labels in a few months time.
Did you get a Toyota manual? Some of the aftermarket ones are not brilliant. I'll second the comment about Otram's videos. They are an outstanding guide. Combined with the Toyota manual, it's not super complex. Just be clean and methodical. Take pics. Bag or box parts in groups and label each bundle. If life gets in the way, you'll appreciate the labels in a few months time.

Dropping the front makes things easier.
View attachment 4036913

Mine took a little longer due to the supercharger.
View attachment 4036914
Good tip about dropping it, mines only on 33's no lift but still great. I've got a serious time crunch here, lots of pressure from all around to get this done within a week but haven't ordered any gasket or seal kits because life. Don't even know what I will need, i'm sure it could use one of everything but that's just time and money. Any suggestions on bare minimum parts to order in to get this thing running more and leaking less?
 
At 210k I would pull the motor and do it all on a engine stand. I would do all the other seals and gaskets too.
no stand and no chance I have time to order all other seals and gaskets and do them all, i've got everyone and their mother on me to get this done within a week.
 
Download a manual for free in the resources section.
Find a good machinist and make sure they can do a straight 6 dual over head cam and get a rough price should be under 1k machine work and a valve job/seals. It’s not a hard job just takes some organization time and money. The market has cooled off on these so don’t overpay.
Found a machine shop 5 min down the road, have to give them a call today. valve job/seals you mentioned right after 1k machine work, you mean ordering that and paying for install + machine work should be under 1k?
 
What helped me the most when I did mine was OTRAMM's video series on youtube. Very detailed step by step instructions done by someone who has done this a ton of times.
Found him thanks to your suggestion, extremely helpful. Got some studying to do.
 
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