NC LX becomes NC LC (1 Viewer)

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Carefully Removed the firewall of the tan 60 to access the trans frame brackets. Left everything complete so I’ll be able to move it over to the new body.
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Yesterday I pulled the transmission to change the clutch. It was a good call. Didn’t make sense to be this far in and not change it.
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The longer I work on this this thing and go down the rabbit hold the more I think Johnny had it figured out on Moonshine. Get rid of the rust. Screw the dents. Epoxy coat it and wheel it. I’d rather get it back together, enjoy it and make memories. I’m not gonna care If the quarter panels is a little wavy when Im sitting around the camp fire. I’d rather be there than sanding body panels thinking one day.
 
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Header installed. Clutch in. Chromate goodies returned from my guy in Greensboro.
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Trans Mount replaced. The metal said made in Taiwan but the rubber said made in Japan It mounted up so I’ll let it ride
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I took Robs advise and removed the brackets from the 86 frame and welded them to the 83 frame.
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I noticed while mounting brake lines I may have a reman head. Somebody may can chime in; I’m not sure but knowing the vehicle history I wouldn’t be suprised
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moved the 86 brake lines/fuel lines over to the 83 frame. With a little degreaser and the chromate hardware it cleaned up nice.
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Been a busy month so I’ve neglected the 84 1/2 60.
The quick and dirty is….

-I picked up a 9500lb winch and mounted in in the rear frame.
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-Put the body on to check for clearances. Passenger doors on. They open and close nicely.
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-With the 4.88s I’m going to run a 37. After measuring clearance, Im leaning toward moving the rear axle back 2” to keep the tire out of the doors.
-2”x4” 3/16 steel has been ordered to cut out the rusted rockers and weld them in.
-while the body is supported I’m going to cut out the driver b pillar and replace it with a good b puller from the 86.
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All the factory FJ60/62 springs I've seen have a centered spring pin, so no flipping. Years ago I found a set that had a offset spring pin, but I'm fairly sure they were aftermarket.

If you found an offset set and flipped them, you're still stuck with an old ass, and even more rare, 60 rear spring. If you're cutting it all apart to move the axle back anyway, you should save some headache and just put chevy 63" springs in there. Far superior spring to the factory 60 ones.
 
All the factory FJ60/62 springs I've seen have a centered spring pin, so no flipping. Years ago I found a set that had a offset spring pin, but I'm fairly sure they were aftermarket.

If you found an offset set and flipped them, you're still stuck with an old ass, and even more rare, 60 rear spring. If you're cutting it all apart to move the axle back anyway, you should save some headache and just put chevy 63" springs in there. Far superior spring to the factory 60 ones.
Before Rob mentioned that I was leaning towards the SOA in the rear with the 63” spring. Rustys off-road is about an hour from here and they have all the builder parts on the shelf.

I’ve gotta get my tires in to set up the rear with them on the axle
 
Header installed. Clutch in. Chromate goodies returned from my guy in Greensboro. View attachment 2694823View attachment 2694824 Trans Mount replaced. The metal said made in Taiwan but the rubber said made in Japan It mounted up so I’ll let it ride View attachment 2694822

I took Robs advise and removed the brackets from the 86 frame and welded them to the 83 frame. View attachment 2694825View attachment 2694826
Hey Austin - Who is your contact at Parker Metal Finishing?
 
SOA is the only way. The ride improvement alone is worth it. The clearance is a perk. Chop the perches and french in as much as you're comfortable with and you'll get 'er down to a nice height. I've not seen Rusty's parts. I can tell you for sure the Ruff Stuff's parts are beefy. I'll likely be headed there for Gray's swap.
 
Happy girl. I think shes more excited than me. She knows when the cruiser is done well go camping in NC and she'll get to see her friends.
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Since last week, I went ahead and order the brackets for the SO in the rear for the 63" springs. Decided to use Ruff Stuff. They had a complete kit and the website was laid out a little better than Rusty. After having the tire here, I realize how perfect a 37 will fit in the wheel well one the axle is centered.

Another thing off the list is getting is I cut the bad B piller out and mocked up the new one. Drilling out spot welds takes forever. I bet I have more than 10 hours mocking it in place. Last night I was able to get the pillar from the brown 60 mocked in place and mount the door.
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Pillar is tacked in. Doors open and close nicely. Gaps are horrible. I may outsource adjustment of the doors to someone.
Tires mounted, height is perfect. I’m gonna modify the fenders behind front tires to avoid lifting any more. The rear will get moved back about 3”.

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I’ve neglected updating; a lot has happened. I don’t think I did much and I can’t remember what I’ve done since my last post so I’ll add what I’ve done recently. The big thing was I decided on a paint color and sprayed the firewall, core support and inner fenders so I could start moving everything over.

I forgot to take pictures of it but I used an epoxy primer from the Sherwin Williams automotive paint shop. The paint is from there industrial line.
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The plan is to assemble the engine bay and get it running.

The supports on the hood had broke loose so I used some seam sealer on the hood and let it set up for a few days.
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Moving everything over from the old fire wall. Elimated the rear heater.
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Laid out the 86 harness and hvac for inspection. Hvac is getting a thorough cleaning, new foam and new heater and ac cores.

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I OHMed out the entire harness and it checks out. Only found one issue, made the repair using what I needed from the the 83 harness.
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Getting close. Been getting up early to get some wrenching in.

Productive day of Cleaning out 30 years of crud. I’m convinced every car with some age should clean this. The A/C core housing was disassembled and all serviceable parts replaced. Cleaned the housing, replaced the A/C core, replaced the pressure switch and expansion valve then Installed it back onto the inner firewall.
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Laid out the High and Low pressure lines. Cleaned the ends and replaced the o rings. You may have noticed from a few days a ago The new drier and condenser are mounted to the firewall. Nothing is connected yet, I’m going to have to remove the core one last time to access the motor to change the WP and misc cooling components. I need to move the gas tank over from the other truck; I’m hoping another week I’ll be able to fire the engine.

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Mocked up the 63” springs. Frenched in the mounts about 3/4”. Should give the mounts some extra strength and lower it a tad more. The metal removed was nasty on the inside but in really good shape.

Final welding tonight, POR15 the underside, gas tank back in, and then bolt the body down for the final time
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Camping over fall break got cut short, so time to update more progress.
I spent several days before I left really motivated and was able to set up the rear SO with the 63" springs. Boxed out the inside with 4" h 1/4" plate and moved the axle back approx. 2.5".
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I frenched in the front spring mount about 3/4" and put the shackle sleeve in the rear frame in attempt to get it to sit as low as possible. It's still sitting a little higher that I would like. The springs are really soft. Im about 4" higher than I would like but I expect with gear loaded down, time, a tank of fuel, and everything else, they will settle down. I like where the rear axle is sitting though, 35's or 37's, the tire will tuck nicely.


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