slotted rotors only! They said they would never run a cross drilled rotor as they are prone to cracking. So, i guess if slotted rotors hold up to the abuse they get on a race track, they may be good enough for my dd truck.
NASCAR Toyota Tundra Team uses.... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I agree, stay away from cross drilled rotors. I'm curious though as to why you need slotted rotors on a DD truck? Slotted/cross drilled rotors are designed to evacuate gas that can form between the pads and rotors during severe brake use, such as what you would see in high speed braking (racing). I can't imagine any driving you'd be doing, except maybe very heavy towing over mountain passes, that would benefit slotted rotors. I'd say focus on good pads and stick with the stock rotors.
Two guys I know run cross drilled slotted rotors on a 80, and one on a 4Skinner.
All experienced very fast warping. None are happy.
Small sample. YMMV, literally.
All experienced very fast warping. None are happy.
Small sample. YMMV, literally.
good to know! first time I read the thread I was like.. cool. now that I remember I thought about getting new rotors in the future I will definitely make a more educated choice
parabola said:
Is there such a thing as too much braking ability?
clownmidget said:
Well, that isn't what I am saying. I am saying that it is probable that the problem slotted rotors are designed to solve is a problem you are not experiencing. Gas that builds up between the rotor and the pad is, in effect, similiar to your tire hydroplaning on water. To solve this, material is removed from the rotors in slots to allow for gas to escape. However, this is removing frictional material that your pad will no longer be able to take advantage of. It is a trade off. I for one would be a bit peeved if I dropped coin on slotted rotors only to walk away with worse braking ability.
Well I dropped the coin, and I can say that braking is improved considerably over the OEM setup. Immediately prior to my purchase of the truck the previous owner had Toyota put in new rotors and pads so I bought the truck with about 1K miles on them. Once it was time to do the front axle rebuild I went with DBA's front and back and some Australian "performance" pads that came with them. That was a huge difference. Since then I've added 100 series front pads. Again, a nice and noticeable gain in braking performance.
I don't think the costs are entirely out of line with what new OEM stuff is either. Bottom line is that these are very heavy trucks and even though the speeds aren't as great (in some cases!) I would think the added mass really puts the braking system to task where venting hot gases and not boiling your fluid comes into play.
I don't think the costs are entirely out of line with what new OEM stuff is either. Bottom line is that these are very heavy trucks and even though the speeds aren't as great (in some cases!) I would think the added mass really puts the braking system to task where venting hot gases and not boiling your fluid comes into play.
- Thread starter
- #8
Wasn't there a thread just a while back of somone coming down a long mountain pass and losing their breaks due to heat/gas buildup?
I'll admit not yet pricing 80 series slotted rotors, but drilled or slotted rotors for my Supra were way higher priced than stock.clownmidget said:
It's great that you are getting better braking with your setup, which I imagine is very much due to a matched set of performance pads and rotors. My truck stops pretty well with pure stock parts, but when the time comes I'll be using some high performance fluid and 100 series pads for sure. I still don't think slotted rotors are worth it for trucks that are not extremely hard on their brakes.
parabola said:
And that's my point. These trucks ARE extremely hard on their brakes. I guess you may have a different experience, live where it is less hilly, less traffic, less stop lights, less lunatics continually cutting you off, or just drive it very little except for weekends, excursions, etc. But start driving one of these daily in typical big city urban traffic coupled with the general topographic relief of southern CA and you WILL go through brakes quickly and become intimately familiar with the limitations of the stock setup to the point that you start looking for larger diameter rotor/bigger caliper kits.
Actually, I live in a region known as the 'Hill Country', a metropolitan area of over 1 million people, and it's TX so of course we are have plenty of lunatics.clownmidget said:
Now, I completely agree that a good setup with LARGER diameter rotors would be a wonderful upgrade and valuable on pretty much any vehicle. That is a different story. I'm merely talking about slotted and/or drilled rotors.
But hey, we can agree to disagree regarding the value of slotted/drilled rotors on street duty vehicles.
One of the key benefits between slotted and cross drilled slotted rotors ;
1) Slotted rotors combats out-gassing, where gas(from the pad bonding agents) can form cushion between pad and rotor, greatly reducing braking power.
2) While the Cross drilled slotted rotors reduce mass, lower brake temperatures.But dont get it wrong these cross drilled rotors technology used on Exotic sports machines (Ferraris, Lambos, NSX Type R & Porsche)
1) Slotted rotors combats out-gassing, where gas(from the pad bonding agents) can form cushion between pad and rotor, greatly reducing braking power.
2) While the Cross drilled slotted rotors reduce mass, lower brake temperatures.But dont get it wrong these cross drilled rotors technology used on Exotic sports machines (Ferraris, Lambos, NSX Type R & Porsche)
My $.02: braking is a direct result of friction between the pads and the rotors - the more friction the more braking. All other things being equal, anything that reduces the contact area will reduce friction and thus braking performance, but the catch is that not all other things are equal once the rotors heat up. If your driving style or needs cause heating to a degree that braking is impaired, then slotted rotors could be of help.
The improved braking performance from your new matched pad/rotors is probably due more to the fact that they are new and matched. I my case, I prefer a large contact patch - stock rotors and 100 pads, lots of city driving, no towing and most of my offroad is done on sand.
The improved braking performance from your new matched pad/rotors is probably due more to the fact that they are new and matched. I my case, I prefer a large contact patch - stock rotors and 100 pads, lots of city driving, no towing and most of my offroad is done on sand.
Landcrushers are heavy and hard on the brakes.
I was going to put new rotor on mine when I did the front axle repack put the rotors looked good.
I had serious pulsing going on while braking before.
I put new bendix pads in, cleaned both surfaces of the rotor with brake cleaner and bleed the fluid.
When I took it for the nervous test drive it tracked perfect and braked smooth.
That was at 145K now I am at 164K still on the same pads and rotors.
I would never think of wasting money on slotted/drilled or any other before at least trying to do the above mentioned PM.
Thats alot of cash that could be put to more fun mods.
Slotted helps with outgassing and if I had to replace mine rotor I would consider it.
Drilled is for cooling and I do not think it needed.
OEM works great
I was going to put new rotor on mine when I did the front axle repack put the rotors looked good.
I had serious pulsing going on while braking before.
I put new bendix pads in, cleaned both surfaces of the rotor with brake cleaner and bleed the fluid.
When I took it for the nervous test drive it tracked perfect and braked smooth.
That was at 145K now I am at 164K still on the same pads and rotors.
I would never think of wasting money on slotted/drilled or any other before at least trying to do the above mentioned PM.
Thats alot of cash that could be put to more fun mods.
Slotted helps with outgassing and if I had to replace mine rotor I would consider it.
Drilled is for cooling and I do not think it needed.
OEM works great
Gumby said:
I ran the DBA cross drilled and slotted rotors on my 60 and loved them, no problems!
I can almost ASSURE you you friends experience warping and cracking are using cheap brand rotors! DBA's are made for abuse and are top notch!
Every high end $100,000 + sports car on the market comes with cross drilled rotors on them! A co-worker of mine has a 911 Twin Turbo and does "Club" races once a month with it! He drives it HARD and has been doing so for years with ZERO rotor problems, got some tranny problems, but NO brake problems!! ZERO! I know because i asked him all about them before i bought them for my FJ60
Are you telling me that the porsche, ferrari, and MB engineers are wrong? For some reason, i think they are correct! The cheapo brand rotors (Powerslot comes to mind) that crack when they are wet, are giving the real companies a bad rep!
Slee seems to be one of the most reputable and honest vendors out there. He recommends the DBA's!
This debate comes up quite often!
Boston Mangler said:
I can absolutely assure you that at least two pair were DBAs. I have one of them sitting on a bench in the shop right now.
Gumby said:
Bizarre! Sorry to hear that, very unusual indeed. I bet you they would warranty em!
I would be very interested in instrumented/measured "improved braking" that gets tossed about on these brake threads. Anyone actually do a before/after measurement they can provide? Or are these "I dropped $800 on this stuff and it replaced worn out stuff so it feels better and therefore MUST be better than new stock stuff....?"
DougM
DougM
Any comments on the likelyhood of a rock or other foriegn object getting lodged in a slot or hole on the slotted/crossdrilled rotors and preventing proper pad contact. Has anyone seen that happen or like me just hear it talked about as a theorectical possiblitity.
