Mysterious stalling, lack of fuel 2LT-E

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Apr 11, 2015
My mechanic thought we had fixed my sudden loss of fuel to the fuel pump problem. We replaced the ecu, checked the wiring, etc. but now it’s returned. My LJ78 runs great, a half tank of gas maybe, then randomly stalls. After it completely cools down, it will start up again and run fine till hours or weeks later, same thing. Help!
Check that your grounds are good. The only time I had this problem, it was a very small minor looking ground that did not make good contact. Near the front of the engine bay in front of the batteries I believe.

My mechanic says I need a new fuel cut off solenoid to fix this. Which part is that? I can't figure it out from the online parts diagrams. Also, does anyone think he (my mechanic) is mistaken?
Tell him if that doesn't fix it, he'll need to put the old one back in and return the new one. LOL

Here's what I found with a quick search. It appears the cut-off valve in 2L-te is the spill control valve. At least that's what this article talks about. I'd bet Nick will help clarify!

Toyota Surf LN130 – 2L TE Diesel
OK here's the spill valve in a ToyoDIY diagram. However, they don't list it with a part number. Hate to say it, but you may need to find a whole pump if they don't sell it as a part. :(

And I just sold my spare pump for $200usd yesterday....

OK, as Jimmy Prado said, it is a Spill Control Valve, not a Fuel Shut off. Make SURE your mechanic does not put 12V to it directly to test it, as it'll burn it out and then you'll really need a new one!

Have you guys check the ground I mentioned?

Have you pulled the error codes from the computer? It's very easy to do with a jumper, and will tell you why the ECU is unhappy.

There is a procedure for doing this with a list of all the error codes. Somewhere on the web, I'll take a look when I get some more time. Wife's yelling at me to get off the computer right now. Try searching through this link: Dowloads & Articles
Found the ECU code instructions: 2.4LTE Fault Codes The connectors you need to jump are in the little grey diagnostic box in the engine bay. Left hand side I believe. It's dead easy to do this, and will let you know if you have any fault codes stored.
Apparently my spill control valve needs replacing. I find one and only one source on the interwebs, here Denso Solenoid Spill Control Valve (SPV) but it's for a 1KZTE engine, not my 2L-TE. Did the pump and programming change from the 2.4L to 2.8L engine in 1993? Would a newer valve work? Or better yet, does anyone know where I can find a used pump, or the correct valve for my pump? A new pump, if I could even find one, is $$$$.
And now for the rest of the story...
The spill control valve mentioned above arrived in Idaho after only 5 days from the UK. It does indeed work on both 1KZTE and 2L-TE injector pumps. But we had to grind an existing wrench extensively to get around the 32mm base to remove the old and put on the new. Then, after running the engine for about 6 hours, the same problem returns. Much head scratching, then finally a discovery of a small ding in the case of my new (used) ECU, and the slightest hint of a black mark on the case where the circuit board shorted out. But only after reaching quit warm temps. That was easily fixable. Now Lurch runs like a much younger cruiser. An expensive month. New ECU $150, $150 labor. New SPV with shipping $275, $500 labor. My mechanic actually burned 16 hours on the clock, but felt $500 was fair. I'll say! Lurch took the family Christmas tree hunting today.
My old ECU probably does have an actual fried resistor somewhere, but I'm not the guy to track it down and replace.

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