Builds My turbo build...FINALLY! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Realistically it a few months away at least. I've got a few custom parts still to design and that will take getting the engine into the truck. The truck is in the back yard and we're just entering spring now. Before I can boot the wife out of the garage for the summer I have to make sure there is no more snow.

I know I'm moving incredibly slow but I enjoy putting the effort into making a piece as close to a factory design that I can.

Taking your time is a good thing. Fast also can be good, but time spent, and a critical eye for detail will pay off in the end. Keep the pics coming, most of us are dudes and we like pics!
 
A little update that people might find useful.

I've posted before about the fact that I really didn't like the 2JZ Supra ARP stud kit for our engines. I felt the overall stud length was too short.

I called ARP and talked with their technical department and after measuring the head bolts and checking how far they protruded through the head we determined that the 2JZ kit was the appropriate one for our 1FZ-FE.

So I went and ordered a kit and it arrived today. I got home and the first thing I did was to measure the overall length and sure enough it matched the head bolt perfectly.

So I went and screwed it into the block and quickly realized were the problem is.

The first time I used these studs was during a head Gasket replacement so you drop the studs down into the holes and screw them into place.

This time the head was removed I could see that there was a relief in the block and the threads began .300" below the surface of the block.

I got on the phone to ARP tech support and talked with the same gentleman. I asked him about what was posted before where it was recommended that we not thread the studs completely down to the shoulder, basically matching the amount of thread engagement of the stock head bolt which would be .700". He didn't like that idea and felt that having the full engagement of the stud into the block was preferred.

edit: Kit was incorrect and there is a different one on the way.

I wanted to get this out there for anyone who might be thinking of going with the ARP studs for their engine.
 
Last edited:
A little update that people might find useful.

After sifting through his spec sheet he found a suitable kit for our engines. The part number is 202-4301. The kit is for a Nissan RB20DET which I believe is their version of a 1FZ-FE.

Rick, thanks for sharing your experience.

Did you get your hand on the new bolts to check them out yet?

-KK
 
Rick, thanks for sharing your experience.

Did you get your hand on the new bolts to check them out yet?

-KK

No not yet. I'm in the process of getting them now. Another delay as it was this weekend that I was to finish up the assembly of the engine and begin mounting the turbo and plumbing for it. I just wanted the info out there so those looking into the ARPs might take pause until I can confirm this other kit.
 
Once confirmed "most" correct kit, this seems like a good thing to post to its own thread or in FAQ, etc....
 
Once confirmed "most" correct kit, this seems like a good thing to post to its own thread or in FAQ, etc....

I called the place where I bought the original kit and the Nissan one with next day shipping was still cheaper. I'll have it Monday possible Tuesday of next week.
 
The Nissan kit was a waste of time. The technician just assumed our blocks were m9 x 1.5 which they aren't.

We then looked again and he checked the inventory and found a kit that is the right thread. I'll know next week and will update the above post if that is truly the best kit. One thing for sure is that the washer included in the Nissan kit was larger and a better fit than the one in the Supra kit.
 
A small update. I ended up with the studs from an Opel 2.0l, M11x1.25 5.0in long. They went is just fine however once the cams were installed the timing gears hit the tops of the front two studs.

So I pulled the studs and cut off .25" and all is well.

Right now there really isn't an ideal stud from what I've been told. Using the Supra studs means you should back out the stud by about .25". Since that portion of the stud is 1.0" long you are basically reducing the strength by 25%. Going with the Opel studs you get to have them at full strength but have to trim two of them from the interference problem with the cam gears.

I've filled out the spec sheet and made my recommendation and observations known to the people who would be able to configure a kit for our engines. I'll let everyone know if anything comes of it.
 
Rick,

Long time, no chat.
This project is awesome!
 
I've spent the last while putting the engine together and designing the heat shield. All the cut ins for water and oil are welded fittings. All this takes time and since I'm away on business all week the time available is sparse.
 
another small update. The heat shield came in yesterday. I really like how it came out.

The motor itself is all together with the exception of rebuilding the PS pump. The cut ins for oil and water are in place and I just need to mount the turbl and measure for the lines. Hoping to get it installed in a couple of weeks.
DSC_3196.jpg
DSC_3197.jpg
DSC_3198.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom