Note that the lunette shown with this seems to be optional, as I interpret the accompanying text. Don't need no stinkin' lunette -- already got one
Looks like good stuff, much preferable to any of the multiaxis-SwissArmyKnife couplers. Not cheap, but within reason and certainly a nice-straightforward solution. Definitely on the someday-I-want-one list.
Yeah, I can put up with a lot of clanking at them prices. But it's not really a lot, which makes this very optional, instead of urgent. Still, someday I just might. I really like it.
Worked on the trailer more today. After searching for a couple weeks & not finding any used appropriate springs, I went ahead & bought a new set that are rated for 1,500lb per pair & are 27". Welded the spring hangers & main tongue. Cut the A beams for the tongue. That was tough because they needed to be right about 42* but turned out perfect. Tomorrow I'll weld the A beams on & probably start prepping the frame for an undercoating type paint/sealant. Should I go ahead & do the floor in 16ga sheet metal (same as the walls & top will be) or stay w/the 3/4" treated/sealed plywood? Still waiting for the axle to arrive. Need to find an 80 wheel & tire somewhere.
Given the size of your draw bar I would of ran to the back. Once at the rear give it the capabilities of a receiver hitch. Comes in handy for a bike rack, camp table, bumper dumper or an attachment point for recovery.
SNIP
Should I go ahead & do the floor in 16ga sheet metal (same as the walls & top will be) or stay w/the 3/4" treated/sealed plywood? Still waiting for the axle to arrive. Need to find an 80 wheel & tire somewhere.
Wood is a lot friendlier to cargo, less noisy, has certain advantages vs rust, etc. However, I would make it so it can be renewed without it being a major project.
Don't know if you've given any thought to tie-downs on the floor, but those would be treated somewhat differently depending on wood or steel.
Also need to decide if I'll put the wall skins on the inside or outside of the frame uprights. Any +/- to either way?
I've tried to figure out how I can attach the wood to the frame but have 2 problems:
1) it must be easily replaceable
2) I'd prefer not to drill into the frame because I have it completely sealed to prevent rust from forming inside
I thought about Liquid Nail but that stuff is a b!tch to remove when it came time to replace the ply. I thought u-bolts around the frame but that would only work for the 2 cross beams. Any tips on how to attach AND make it easily replaceable?
Also need to decide if I'll put the wall skins on the inside or outside of the frame uprights. Any +/- to either way?
SNIP Any tips on how to attach AND make it easily replaceable?
Most designs prefer to leave the bed as clean as possible. Then again, having side posts protrude on the interior helps keep stuff from shifting. I use a couple of the expansion type load bars to help keep stuff in place, which work either way. Other systems rely on a fixed rail to support a load bar and they usually require a smooth interior. I personally like it slick in there, just easier to load and shove stiff around. Of course, I have those crafty, in wall tie downs the Canadians applied, the best of both worlds as they're handy and don't protrude either.
For the wood floor, you decided no tailgate IIRC, so the easy way won't work. I was going to suggest welding in stock for it to slip in like a drawer from the rear, then the tailgate would lock it in place. But for a drop in, weld up bolts or other fittings to the side of the channel, then use either a flush top fasteners, or something from the bottom into a nutsert in the wood to tighten down.
This does remind me about another advantage of a welded steel floor. It's watertight, so helps with stream crossings even if you don't happen to own a landing craft.
Got the tongue done today. Kind of at a stand still until the axle comes and I find tires.
I sat and stared at the trailer a bit today. Then I remembered I designed it to have the wall sheets on the outside of the uprights so it's not even possible to put them on the inside without a bunch of extra fabing. So I have most of the trailer figured out except for the lid. I'm thinking a simple 1x1" sq. tubing that's 1/8" wrapped in 16ga sheet. Anybody have any leads on a couple FZJ80 wheels and/or 285-295/75r16?
Got my welds pretty dialed in where I won't need to do much grinding.
I thought about Liquid Nail but that stuff is a b!tch to remove when it came time to replace the ply. I thought u-bolts around the frame but that would only work for the 2 cross beams. Any tips on how to attach AND make it easily replaceable?
How about welding bits of angle iron along the cross members? You can then simply bolt the plywood down with carriage bolts. No holes in the frame.
Because I was wanting/still want longer leafs. If I ran them back further then when/if I get longer springs I'd have to do a lot more work than just having to relocate the hangers. Also, after looking at many trailers the way it is now is superior to all of them but one and it was an enclosed heavy heavy duty trailer. The way I did it is still much stronger than just tying the A braces to the face of the front frame rail, which a lot of people have done successfully. The entire tongue A frame is 2.5" sq. tubing that is 3/16" welded to the frame in a total of 22 locations for a total of 4.5 feet of welds! If that doesn't hold hellatiously well then I'm doing something seriously wrong.
The place where it might be worth considering some reinforcement to me is on either side of the front spring hangers. Looks like a gusset/outer plating on each side would make that more robust. The hanger metal alone doesn't appear to be as thick as the frame.
The rear hangers might benefit similarly, but the shackle provides enough flexibility it's less of a concern.
The place where it might be worth considering some reinforcement to me is on either side of the front spring hangers. Looks like a gusset/outer plating on each side would make that more robust. The hanger metal alone doesn't appear to be as thick as the frame.
The rear hangers might benefit similarly, but the shackle provides enough flexibility it's less of a concern.
Don't mistake me, your tongue design is far better than most around here. I was just curious why the missed opportunity to tie things together. Wanting longer springs is a good goal.
Flipped it over and finished welding the tongue. Sitting on Jack stands Its starting to feel like a real trailer. Hubs will be here this week but have no idea if my axle, that I paid for on the 14th, has shipped yet or not from Eastern Marine.
You can see the 'frame' I put around the 3/16" frame tongue where the coupler slides in. Did it w/some free 3/8" scrap I got from a guy @ a remodeling they were doing to Tractor Supply. Price was right so I cut & ground it to work.
Here you can see the 1/4" thick fish plate I put on the end of the tongue to the 2nd brace. Probably no need but I was bored.