Well, that's good. I just hope it doesn't start dog-tracking on you when you get to two matched tires. That w
uld be a pain...
uld be a pain...
My Trailer Build Plan W/Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LFD2037
- Start date
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Looks good. I finished building one for a buddy in June. I couldn't find wide fenders so I ended up building some. I also added a 25 gallon water tank underneath. It hangs about 6" below the frame rails.
I'm building another one and decided to go with Toyota 3" lift leaf springs for a 4runner this way I hopefully can fit the water tank directly over the axle while still keeping it spring under and 35" tires.
I'm building another one and decided to go with Toyota 3" lift leaf springs for a 4runner this way I hopefully can fit the water tank directly over the axle while still keeping it spring under and 35" tires.
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this build has a huge progress since the last time I check the thread. great work. Those fenders seem to fit perfectly. its hard to find wide fenders. a friend of mine have been searching for weeks now.
@Rwhat isn't it complicated to build up wide customized fenders? hope you can give me a link on your build. that sounds interesting too.
@Rwhat isn't it complicated to build up wide customized fenders? hope you can give me a link on your build. that sounds interesting too.
A little late to this thread
I used gussets as attachment points for the plywood base and 1/8" diamond plate. The crossmembers in the frame was placed 1" below the frame rails and I added gussets on a lot of the inner corners and drilled a 3/8 hole in each one. Just used flat bar and plasmad 45* ends on them. Flat bar was handy to plus it left a gap in the inside of the corner so you didn't butt up against the vertical weld and a gap so junk can drain out.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
- Thread starter
- #146
Now I need to build the lid. Do I have the metal from the lid overhang the edges or not?
Is 16ga too heavy for the lid?
1" x 1" 14ga. tubing good for a frame inside the lid?
Can the lid be flat or does it need to have a 'crown' in the center (flat would be tons easier/cheaper!)?
Is 16ga too heavy for the lid?
1" x 1" 14ga. tubing good for a frame inside the lid?
Can the lid be flat or does it need to have a 'crown' in the center (flat would be tons easier/cheaper!)?
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
- Thread starter
- #147
Question on wiring:
the stop/turn lights flicker when running down the highway. I have not been using the ground wire on the trailer side pig tail. Is the flickering from this ground wire not being screwed into the trailer frame (grounded) or is it from the lights themselves not being grounded good enough or both?
I thought if you grounded the lights then you don't need to ground the pigtail & vice versa. I have the lights grounded but it may not be sufficient.
the stop/turn lights flicker when running down the highway. I have not been using the ground wire on the trailer side pig tail. Is the flickering from this ground wire not being screwed into the trailer frame (grounded) or is it from the lights themselves not being grounded good enough or both?
I thought if you grounded the lights then you don't need to ground the pigtail & vice versa. I have the lights grounded but it may not be sufficient.
- Joined
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MY PLANS:
1" x .083" sq tubing
A slight overhang lip with a flat rubber seal around the perimeter to keep the moisture out.
I will crown my lid, for aesthetic reasons mainly.
Run dual 200# gas lift shocks to assist with opening (plan on a RTT on mine one day)
Dual lockable toggle clamps on lid.
Jason
While your trailer ball and hitch might act as a ground, heck even your tow chains could, they just aren't that good as a mechanical ground. I use the ground wire through my pigtail to my truck as well as grounding all the lights to the trailer.
I use a Max coupler and with all of the pieces that connect together I think my lights would flicker all the time.
ntsqd
technerd
I'd give the top a slight crown for drainage and to reduce the size of any single flat section (less likely to "oil-can"). Can do it with a "ridge beam" or one large radius curve. Say something like an 80" radius set so that the center is ~1/2" higher than the outer edges. The curve is my own preference, but it means having your tube vendor roll any cross-top tubes that you might use in the design.
I treat the trailer like it's a fiberglass boat hull & run dedicated ground wires for everything.
I treat the trailer like it's a fiberglass boat hull & run dedicated ground wires for everything.
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Here are some links to threads here about lids in the M101 CDN community. I'm trying to find pics that I'm pretty sure are from the plans I sent you. Here's something very similar:
Gaberelli's M101 CDN Build Thread
Nice kitchen on page one of this build, but about halfway down page two is a lid that looks like it was built from the plan :
Cruisin Off Road M101 CDN Trailer Build
I thought there were more pics in older posts. Maybe Search is not complete tonight or something.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
- Thread starter
- #154
The lid in this link is pretty much what I had envisioned.
BUT since welding 16ga warps it easy, & I doubt I can find a local shop that has the skills to do all the funky bends:
what if the vertical pieces (the 'sides') of the lid didn't have the horizontal 'lip'. If they just came straight down, approximately 1/2" wider that the top rail, go about 2 to 3" lower than the top rail, had a 1"x1" sq. tubing frame on the inside that sat on top of the top frame rail & a gasket attached to the lid frame? Does that make sense? Wish I knew how do use Paint or some other program because I'm not too good @ getting my point across!
Yeah, using the tube to act as the lip should help. The object is to get a surface wide enough to mount your "bulb" type gasket. It's the gasket material like around the perimeter of the doors on your truck that is hollow in the middle, so that it can compress but maintain a tight seal on the top lip of the trailer bed. Before you settle on the 1x1 tubing, you may want to determine the width of the seal you'll be using, as it might be a little wider than that and best to have metal backing across its full width.
ntsqd
technerd
ntsqd
technerd
That linked page is not for just that seal, it's for a whole range of similar seals.
Yeah, that one is designed to clip on a raised seam, like around a door. But the gasket part is what's important in ntsqd's illustration. Most of the ones I saw looked to be bonded to a flat surface, so they were simpler to that one. In that case, the width is the important factor, plus the way the lid sits on the mating flange and how thick it is to get the hinges set right, are the crucial things.
ntsqd
technerd
If the sides are going to overlap the top rail of the trailer bed then there's your lip. There is no rule that says that the seal must be in the compressing stack-up so long as it is compressed when closed. Can accomplish that by sizing the ID of the top's sides appropriately.
