My TLC experience
- Thread starter sogncab
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #442
Appointment made for noon on Friday.
Are we gambling?
As a side note, I wish I would've put it on a dyno right away when I got it. I bet rebuilding the axles added 10hp. It no kidding felt like I picked up power. It was mucho easier to hold 55mph after that.
Are we gambling?
As a side note, I wish I would've put it on a dyno right away when I got it. I bet rebuilding the axles added 10hp. It no kidding felt like I picked up power. It was mucho easier to hold 55mph after that.
- Thread starter
- #444
I don't know. I'm not sure how we'd set up a gambling pool.
Maybe whoever is closest gets a free hat with my company logo.
Not this one though, it's just getting comfy.
- Thread starter
- #451
Installed the additional leafs in the front suspension this morning. I'm not technically retarded, but I might be mechanically retarded.
Wasn't too difficult. Used the safety squints, double rubber, and had mother on speed dial. Thanks AvE
Before: (Do me a favor and put your thumb over my license plate, I forgot....)
During.
Sweet bumbling baby Jesus, how do springs get so fricking dirty?
I put the chassis up on jack stands, and let the front suspension hang.
Un-did the u-bolts, and took pressure off the springs by lifting the axle with a floor jack.
Put some C-Clamps on the springs and took the nut off the center pin.
Carefully removed leaves while doing my best, (and successfully), NOT knocking my teeth out.
I don't know what the correct term is, but the front thingamawidget that keeps the spring pack in line, I took the pin out of that.
Then just slid the new leaf in from the front, in the third position from the top.
Line up the pin, and using four C clamps, I just kept putting the springs back in one by one.
Re-install thingamawidget
Tighten nut on the alignment pin to smash the spings back together.
Used a deadblow to align the springs laterally.
Torque alignment pin.
Re-install ubolts. Uggadugga them mostly tight.
Finish tightening them with a breaker bar, (since I don't own a torque wrench....)
Wasn't difficult, kinda gross with how nasty dirty the springs were, but that's what soap is for.
Took me about two hours, so I'm on par with @fjdiesel time.
I need to remove the block that PRLC added to the bump stop and cycle the front suspension with the forklift and see how close things actually get. My gut tells me that they are way bigger than they need to be. BUT JP is very good at what he does. Right now I have so little articulation in front, and I'll lift a rear tire in just about anything. Not that it's a billy badass rock crawler, but it isn't a mall crawler either. Maybe @DangerNoodle will weigh in with some insight for me.
and after.
I gained about 3/4" in front. Right off the bat it was more like 7/8", so in ten minutes it sank 1/8". I'm curious what it ends up being after they have settled a bit. I'm guessing not a huge amount of squish will happen being that the other springs have a few thousand miles on them already.
Wasn't too difficult. Used the safety squints, double rubber, and had mother on speed dial. Thanks AvE
Before: (Do me a favor and put your thumb over my license plate, I forgot....)
During.
Sweet bumbling baby Jesus, how do springs get so fricking dirty?
I put the chassis up on jack stands, and let the front suspension hang.
Un-did the u-bolts, and took pressure off the springs by lifting the axle with a floor jack.
Put some C-Clamps on the springs and took the nut off the center pin.
Carefully removed leaves while doing my best, (and successfully), NOT knocking my teeth out.
I don't know what the correct term is, but the front thingamawidget that keeps the spring pack in line, I took the pin out of that.
Then just slid the new leaf in from the front, in the third position from the top.
Line up the pin, and using four C clamps, I just kept putting the springs back in one by one.
Re-install thingamawidget
Tighten nut on the alignment pin to smash the spings back together.
Used a deadblow to align the springs laterally.
Torque alignment pin.
Re-install ubolts. Uggadugga them mostly tight.
Finish tightening them with a breaker bar, (since I don't own a torque wrench....)
Wasn't difficult, kinda gross with how nasty dirty the springs were, but that's what soap is for.
Took me about two hours, so I'm on par with @fjdiesel time.
I need to remove the block that PRLC added to the bump stop and cycle the front suspension with the forklift and see how close things actually get. My gut tells me that they are way bigger than they need to be. BUT JP is very good at what he does. Right now I have so little articulation in front, and I'll lift a rear tire in just about anything. Not that it's a billy badass rock crawler, but it isn't a mall crawler either. Maybe @DangerNoodle will weigh in with some insight for me.
and after.
I gained about 3/4" in front. Right off the bat it was more like 7/8", so in ten minutes it sank 1/8". I'm curious what it ends up being after they have settled a bit. I'm guessing not a huge amount of squish will happen being that the other springs have a few thousand miles on them already.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #452
Got a new module from Dakota Digital that talks to the engine computer.
Looks like they have the boost portion of things figured out.
If it's accurate, that's about where I thought I'd see it. I was guessing mid to upper twenties before it opened the waste gate. Too bad I don't think this engine would hold up to a tune. It'd be fun to see 40lbs and another 100hp hitting the ground.
I still need to put in the adapter so I can put in a sender for oil pressure. The Cummins ecu monitors oil pressure, but only binary yes/no, 0/1, so I don't get an actual oil pressure reading, only that yes, it is oiling. Or no, ya facked.
Looks like they have the boost portion of things figured out.
If it's accurate, that's about where I thought I'd see it. I was guessing mid to upper twenties before it opened the waste gate. Too bad I don't think this engine would hold up to a tune. It'd be fun to see 40lbs and another 100hp hitting the ground.
I still need to put in the adapter so I can put in a sender for oil pressure. The Cummins ecu monitors oil pressure, but only binary yes/no, 0/1, so I don't get an actual oil pressure reading, only that yes, it is oiling. Or no, ya facked.
- Thread starter
- #453
Temporarily zip tied a pair of low lumen Rigid lights to the rollbar for interior lighting.
I'm not sure where I want them, so I'm not ready to drill and tap holes.
When I do, I'll put the wire inside the rollbar.
I screwed something up....
I ran a jumper for the illumination ground from switch to switch. Somewhere I'm getting a back feed. When I hit the switch to turn the new lights on, the driver's side heated sweat switch illuminates.
I either got the wrong diagram for my switches, or I misread it. I didn't let the smoke out of anything, so that's a win.
This is currently a giant abortion. I have to get everything working, and understand how it works before I do something sensible and tidy.
In the center console switch panel I have:
-Driver's heated seat
-Passenger's heated seat
-Air compressor
-Interior lights
-Auxiliary rear lights. ON-OFF-ON w/ reverse.
-Outer front auxiliary lights
-Inner front auxiliary lights
-And a spare
I'm not sure where I want them, so I'm not ready to drill and tap holes.
When I do, I'll put the wire inside the rollbar.
I screwed something up....
I ran a jumper for the illumination ground from switch to switch. Somewhere I'm getting a back feed. When I hit the switch to turn the new lights on, the driver's side heated sweat switch illuminates.
I either got the wrong diagram for my switches, or I misread it. I didn't let the smoke out of anything, so that's a win.
This is currently a giant abortion. I have to get everything working, and understand how it works before I do something sensible and tidy.
In the center console switch panel I have:
-Driver's heated seat
-Passenger's heated seat
-Air compressor
-Interior lights
-Auxiliary rear lights. ON-OFF-ON w/ reverse.
-Outer front auxiliary lights
-Inner front auxiliary lights
-And a spare
- Thread starter
- #456
Haven't looked yet. Tonight's project.
I'm 90% sure it's only affecting switch illumination. Maybe 70%....
I was going to dig for a better diagram for the posts on the switches as well. Being they are all the same manufacturer, I was assuming they'd be similar.....
- Thread starter
- #457
So..... They were working, but I'm not sure why....
Errant ground, and I think I completely read the diagram incorrectly. They shouldn't have worked at all.
To add to the mix I'm also not sure exactly what I did to remedy it. Which I hate. I'm okay being wrong, (I was married once, I'm pretty used to it), but not knowing why drives me nuts.
They were also apparently not at full power, because they are obnoxiously bright. Like too bright. Like if I need operate on the dog it's totally doable. Not real great for when all you need to do is fish the crack pipe out from under the seat.
Am I understanding this correctly?
In order to get the switch to illuminate, I need to run a jumper from 1 to 8, and 3 to 10 in order to get the switch to illuminate when engaged?
Also since it's amateur hour, I can run a common ground to all of the switches for illumination?
Errant ground, and I think I completely read the diagram incorrectly. They shouldn't have worked at all.
To add to the mix I'm also not sure exactly what I did to remedy it. Which I hate. I'm okay being wrong, (I was married once, I'm pretty used to it), but not knowing why drives me nuts.
They were also apparently not at full power, because they are obnoxiously bright. Like too bright. Like if I need operate on the dog it's totally doable. Not real great for when all you need to do is fish the crack pipe out from under the seat.
Am I understanding this correctly?
In order to get the switch to illuminate, I need to run a jumper from 1 to 8, and 3 to 10 in order to get the switch to illuminate when engaged?
Also since it's amateur hour, I can run a common ground to all of the switches for illumination?
Last edited:
I always jumper grounds, never had an issue.
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Do you know what gear the pull was done in?
- Thread starter
- #460
Fourth. 1:1
