My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (4 Viewers)

[nat]

10 stainless steel 3/8" bolts is going to be plenty strong. Should look nice too.

 

[gavman]

I say grade eight, No need for the stainless as everything else will corrode as quick or quicker than the bolts.
Unless of course you are gonna leave them exposed?

 

[REZARF]

I say grade eight, No need for the stainless as everything else will corrode as quick or quicker than the bolts.
Unless of course you are gonna leave them exposed?

Yup, they will be exposed to the weather.

 

[RHINO]

i dont know much about the hardness of stainless, but i'd definatly go stainless or at least zink plated since it'll be exposed.

the way the back angles out it looks like the axle could come back some for the 60/40 split. but it sure is comming along nicely, keep up the great work man !!

 

[REZARF]

the way the back angles out it looks like the axle could come back some for the 60/40 split. but it sure is comming along nicely, keep up the great work man !!

I think it is the pic that makes it look too forward, the axle is set pretty far back, plus the wieght of the front box ought to balance it out.

Rezarf <><

 

[RHINO]

true,, pics always throw stuff off.

 

[d110pickup]

Drew,
You may want to think twice about stainless bolts and stainless nuts. Stainless tends to gall when you thread the two together. I learned this the hard way; sometimes the nut will seize before the joint becomes snug. And if you continue to tighten it won't back off.
Just my .02.
The trailer looks great.
Mike

 

[Niner]

Drew,
You may want to think twice about stainless bolts and stainless nuts. Stainless tends to gall when you thread the two together. I learned this the hard way; sometimes the nut will seize before the joint becomes snug. And if you continue to tighten it won't back off.
Just my .02.
The trailer looks great.
Mike

If you use taping fluid they won't gall and since this is usually water based it eventully evaporates away. I prefer nyloc huts anyway.

 

[REZARF]

I use anti sieze on everything anyways

I am leaning towards the grade 8 now...

Thanks

 

[spressomon]

Grade 8!!! Stainless might be OK...but typically brittle compared to Grd 8...you should up size the diameter for stainless from what I have generally learned. You won't have to wonder about it if you use Grade 8's. Unless you are really going to subject those bolts to some serious salt spray....

 

[REZARF]

Its the corrosion i am trying to avoid, plus you cant find a grade 8 in a socket head and the hex heads don't look as nice.

That said, I will tak strength over looks anyday.

Thanks for all the advice fellas!

Drew

 

[SPM_Ltd]

Fasteners

You might want to look through this reference:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Scroll down to Fasterners and Sealing and then click on bolts.

You may not want to order the bolts from them (it's always nicer to go down to the store and pick them up) but it is a good reference for what is available. They list the tensile strength of the bolts so that you can compare the strength.

Steve

 

[spressomon]

You might want to look through this reference:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Scroll down to Fasterners and Sealing and then click on bolts.

You may not want to order the bolts from them (it's always nicer to go down to the store and pick them up) but it is a good reference for what is available. They list the tensile strength of the bolts so that you can compare the strength.

Steve

Hey Drew...just in case you haven't found them already MC lists "Ultra Corrosion Resistant" hex ("allen") cap screws that have almost 30% higher tensile strength than same size in Grd 8!

 

[Niner]

I use anti sieze on everything anyways

I am leaning towards the grade 8 now...

Thanks

IMHO grade 5 is as far as you should go. in the sport of wheeling the weight of the vehicles and what even the rock buggys do an grade 8 is more likely to fail due to shearing than a grade 5.

The theory on this is a standard bolt is too soft and smears, a grade 8 is too hard and will shear off without warning. A grade 5 will shmear a little before and appear loose before complete failure.

Just what we have been using in the northern midwest area the last 15 years.

 

[REZARF]

Great point man, thanks.

Drew

 

[sseaman]

any new pics?

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

IMHO grade 5 is as far as you should go. in the sport of wheeling the weight of the vehicles and what even the rock buggys do an grade 8 is more likely to fail due to shearing than a grade 5.

The theory on this is a standard bolt is too soft and smears, a grade 8 is too hard and will shear off without warning. A grade 5 will shmear a little before and appear loose before complete failure.

Just what we have been using in the northern midwest area the last 15 years.

This has been debated over and over again on Pirate and I will still take a Grade 8 over a Grade 5 any day of the week. The Grade 5 may "shmear" as you say, but the Grade 8 wouldn't be phased at that same load. It's not like they ultimately fail at the same load and one warns you while the other doesn't. The grade 8 is significantly stronger.

 

[spressomon]

This has been debated over and over again on Pirate and I will still take a Grade 8 over a Grade 5 any day of the week. The Grade 5 may "shmear" as you say, but the Grade 8 wouldn't be phased at that same load. It's not like they ultimately fail at the same load and one warns you while the other doesn't. The grade 8 is significantly stronger.

Same opinion here. But hey...it's your trailer .

 

[lx450landcruiser]

not that it makes any difference it seems almost att the bolts and harware on my m101 is grade 8

 

[REZARF]

If the grade 8 shears, I will have bigger problems than the box coming off the trailer!

I have landed on the grade 8, it is cheaper, and stronger. The books say a standard stainless bolt is around a SAE Grade 2!

Grade 8 gives me peace of mind, I just need to find a few that are corrosion resistant.

Thanks!