My piggy project

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crushers said:
the H55F is an excellent tranny and i have swapped a number of them into the gasser F/2F drivetrains. a VERY easy swap indeed. 2F H55F 35" boots and i could hit over 100 mph, climb highway hills at 80 mph and get (relativey) decent gas milage at the double nickle. i have never blown 5th out of a H55F behind a gasser, NA diesel or a turbo diesel in many years of driving them...not yet anyway. am not gentle on my trucks either
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OK, so I have been reading about the H55F and it's appealing to me...but kinda spendy for me right now. That doesn't mean it's out of the question though. Can you break it down for me on what I would need to do to change to get it into the truck? Could I bolt it up to the truck with a stock transfer case? I assume I'll need to replace the transfer case too? Yes? No?

What would be a good choice for the Tcase in that case? And a second choice?

I am still not sure that I am ready to make this kind of invesment right now, but it is fun to dream!
 
it costs nothing to dream and can be a lot of fun...
you will need the 4 speed bell housing, H55F, 2 piece t/case (get a set of auto gears out of an auto HJ60 if possible(lower low range), lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear one, modify the floor hump for the shifter hole OR get the top loader plate or the BJ42 model H55F, you will also need to get a e/barke (either MAF one that bolts so the t/case (not advised) or a replacement rear axle out of a 82 or new BJFJ42)
there, done.

sounds much worse than it is...
 
i just dream about driving my rigs let alone putting cool stuff in them ;)
 
crushers said:
it costs nothing to dream and can be a lot of fun...
you will need the 4 speed bell housing, H55F, 2 piece t/case (get a set of auto gears out of an auto HJ60 if possible(lower low range), lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear one, modify the floor hump for the shifter hole OR get the top loader plate or the BJ42 model H55F, you will also need to get a e/barke (either MAF one that bolts so the t/case (not advised) or a replacement rear axle out of a 82 or new BJFJ42)
there, done.

sounds much worse than it is...
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Perfect. Thanks so much. I think this is something that could be in my future, but not something I can afford right now. But, now I have something to save up for. I figure I'll swap in the 4 speed tranny and leave the existing T-case for step one...then see how that goes. I have to start simple since I have never even looked at these things before.

nuclearlemon said:
i just dream about driving my rigs let alone putting cool stuff in them ;)
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I hear ya. I think my boyfriend is dreaming of the day I get that pig out of the garage!
 
Mark W said:
You will need a T/C input gear from a '74 four speed mated T/C. This gear had the splining to fit the four speed output shaft and the tooth configuration to math the "three speed T/C". It is still available new. You also need a special bearing to match both the size of the shaft and the size of the case. Part numbers available in the tech write up section here on mud.

You will also need the bolts that hold the T/C onto the tranny from the fourspeed. They are longer than the ones on the three speed. You also need the high/low shift arm from a fourspeed T/C. Or jusrt swap the whole top plate from the four speed unit.

The 2WD-4WD shift rod is longer on the fourspeed T/C. Swap the whole shift mech to be simple.


Nice mod. The difference between the low range gear reduction is the equivalent of 4.88s instead of 4.11s.


mark...
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One other thing you will need is a spacer to take the place of the old PTO gear, because your old PTO gear is a different spline.
 
Did some more work last night...now it's getting to be a naked pig. I can't get the blasted tailgate off because the screws are stuck. Any tricks to unsticking bolts/screws besides PB Blaster and maybe some heat? SOme of them are stripped too...besides drilling them, any suggestions on how to get those out?

NakedPiggy_001.jpg
 
I got a set of those Craftsman "easyouts" that go in a drill. Spin the drill in reverse and it grabs the stripped philips and gets it out. Or are the just spinning in the threads? If that is the case, i tried to slide a this metal putty knife under the head and pry up while loosening. And when you are not working on the pig, spray 'em down with liquid wrench and let 'em sit overnight.
 
hand impact. do they have heads that stick up? if so, grab them with vice grips, but i think they're recessed.
 
Use some muriatic acid the way you'd use penetrating oil. Be careful what else you get it on.Let it sit and brew for a while. Refresh as needed. Follow with a good penetrating oil. Ed's Red is my favorite.

A hand impact like Ige mentions is a must have. You can also use an air impact for this application. Lean into it hard so that it doesn't bounce out.


Mark...
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
I think this is what Ige was talking about:

Impact_Screwdriver_Tool_Set.jpg


You hit the end with a hammer and it snaps the screw loose. Or that's the theory... :D
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Yep, that's what I thought. Headed for Sears at lunch for this and some easy-outs. I am having a hell of a time with screws and bolts stripping on this thing. Everything is so rusted on. I guess I expected it and really, it's not going too too bad. I am going to have to find some replacement hardware, which I am sure will be interesting.
 
Mark W said:
Use some muriatic acid the way you'd use penetrating oil. Be careful what else you get it on.Let it sit and brew for a while. Refresh as needed. Follow with a good penetrating oil. Ed's Red is my favorite.

A hand impact like Ige mentions is a must have. You can also use an air impact for this application. Lean into it hard so that it doesn't bounce out.


Mark...
Click to expand...

Yeah, nothing like a little HCl to start the day off with a burn! I used to sell and service swimming pools in a past life and that's what we used to clean the concrete or gunnite in the pools. Nasty stuff. I think I have some from acid washing my basement, so I'll give it a try. Thanks for the hint!

I can't get the air impact into the area and get enough leverage to really lean in, otherwise I would have tried that already. This is at the bottom of the tailgate door and I have to get the hinge off because the tortion bar is attached to the body too. So hinge off, tailgate off, tortion bar cover off, and I am sure I am going to find a disentegrating pile of metal.
 
k9crazy said:
Y'all have been a great help. I think I am going to keep the engine until it's dead, providing I can get a different carb on there so it's not such a PITA. The PO put in an electric fuel pump and a Weber carb and it seems to flood the engine with gas. So it definately needs some carb work. I have an aisin that I am going to have rebuilt.

As for the 4spd swap, I am headed to look at some piggy parts on Monday and am going to see if I can find the transmission and Xfer case (along with some badly needed floorboards and other parts).

I think the diesel is a bit rich for my blood right now. I just finished building my FJ Cruiser to where I want it, so the funds are a bit drained at the moment. However, eventually, I'd love to go diesel and do the bio diesel thing.

When I find a donor piggy, I'll post up what I find.

In the meantime, I'll read up on how to do this. I found this in the tech links http://www.toepper.net/Landcruiser pages/3-speed to 4-speed conversion.htm ...is there a better write up with more step by step directions somewhere?
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Heather,
The Weber is quite simple to tune, it is very finickey about fuel pressure. Go to e-Bay and find a fuel pressure regulator(2-9psi range aprox). My truck ran so rich it would barely idle, fuel pressure was overpowering the float needle and flooding the carb, black smoke at idle. I just bought a fuel pressure regulator for my '74 BMW w/Weber, as well,by just adding the regulator my mileage increased by 15%, due to more efficient metering the fuel as designed. Both vehicles now run better and more efficiently. There are alot of Weber tuning manuals, the carb is easy and reliable to tune. There are lots of naysayers here on the boards that badmouth the Weber, I believe that is due to unwillingness to tune and they want an out of the box bolt on carb. Webers have been used on sports cars for many years and these cars encounter extremes in cornering and accelleration, tuning is required on a "generic" carb.
eric:popcorn:
 
One trick I use with rusty hardware is to not let it bind.
If you can get the screw/bolt /nut started just work it back and forth about 1/4 turn at a time, loosening it a bit further each time. It takes a bit more time but the time is well spent especially if you are working on one of the captive nut fastener Toyota used on these rigs.
You might also invest in a set of thread chases, they are like taps/dies but used to clean rather than cut.
 
Easy outs are the devil..

Use the acid/penetrating oil..
 
what i have foudn to work GREAT on broken off bolts is reverse drill bits, once the drill bit takes a bite it screws the broken part out the otherside... no trying to get the rusted exposed part back through the threads..
this does not work on bolts that are screwed into a solid piece of steel of course but for body panels it is the cat's ass...
 
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