My New LC200... and a Few Questions

[TeCKis300]

Hate to say it but Dorman anything isn't allowed anywhere near my vehicles. Even if it's metal (pot metal). Especially as it's on the critical oiling subsystem.

I would encourage you to have an OEM Toyota part on hand for the next change. IMO, I put higher value on the OEM resin cap than anything else. Oil change monkeys have been known screw things up and the resin cap has a better change to not create further issues upstream.

 

[Mingus Dew]

Hate to say it but Dorman anything isn't allowed anywhere near my vehicles. Even if it's metal (pot metal). Especially as it's on the critical oiling subsystem.

I would encourage you to have an OEM Toyota part on hand for the next change. IMO, I put higher value on the OEM resin cap than anything else. Oil change monkeys have been known screw things up and the resin cap has a better change to not create further issues upstream.

Appreciate the advice. I will figure out an OEM solution for the next change.

I will look into a specialized filter wrench as well to minimize potential problems.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Mechanic put it on yeah. The OEM plastic housing was cracked during an oil change prior to my ownership I suppose.

Mechanic said they’ve had good luck with this Dorman part and the online reviews are decent. Knowing myself I’ll probably get neurotic and opt for an OEM solution at the next change, but I figure even the worst Chinese aftermarket part can last 5,000 miles.

Yeah, the LC's OEM plastic crap part is more than twice the price of the metal one.

I find the choice of that POS plastic part in a LC to be bizarre.

 

[hoot504]

I would take the OEM plastic cap any day and three times on Sunday over an aftermarket chinese amazon cap, metal or not.

 

[bloc]

At least one user here had problems with the aluminum Dorman cap they bought at a parts store. I can't remember whether it was the spring inside (which has two jobs.. it holds the filter element up against the housing, and provides pressure to keep the drain valve closed once the drain plug is removed from the bottom).. or a crack in the casting.

@Mingus Dew did you keep the plastic cap? Even if you upgrade to the Genuine toyota aluminum cap later, you'll need a support tube out of one of those to make it fit correctly.

 

[Mingus Dew]

At least one user here had problems with the aluminum Dorman cap they bought at a parts store. I can't remember whether it was the spring inside (which has two jobs.. it holds the filter element up against the housing, and provides pressure to keep the drain valve closed once the drain plug is removed from the bottom).. or a crack in the casting.

@Mingus Dew did you keep the plastic cap? Even if you upgrade to the Genuine toyota aluminum cap later, you'll need a support tube out of one of those to make it fit correctly.

Yes, I'm thinking the aluminum part is already dripping for some reason. This has been a major headache considering I just went in for a simple oil change to christen the vehicle...

I did not keep the plastic assembly. Picking up a new one from the Toyota dealer tomorrow. $75 mistake that one.

 

[gasman4u]

Yes, I'm thinking the aluminum part is already dripping for some reason. This has been a major headache considering I just went in for a simple oil change to christen the vehicle...

I did not keep the plastic assembly. Picking up a new one from the Toyota dealer tomorrow. $75 mistake that one.

That sucks. Good thing you’re vigilant and saw it leaking. Count it as a lesson learned. Don’t beat yourself up.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Yes, I'm thinking the aluminum part is already dripping for some reason. This has been a major headache considering I just went in for a simple oil change to christen the vehicle...

I did not keep the plastic assembly. Picking up a new one from the Toyota dealer tomorrow. $75 mistake that one.

You had a mechanic do this right? Ya know....maybe the O ring was put on wrong?

 

[bloc]

Realistically the plastic part isn't all that bad as long as it isn't over-tightened

Plenty of members here happily trucking along to 200k on theirs without an issue.

As for why we got the plastic part.. it is tucked up so high that there isn't much risk of physical damage from contact with anything, and it can clearly handle the chemical/temperature/pressure requirements without issue.

Agreed, a lesson learned. Genuine Toyota, or whoever makes it for them.

 

[Mingus Dew]

You had a mechanic do this right? Ya know....maybe the O ring was put on wrong?

Yes, a guy who knows his stuff and came with a recommendation I hold in high regard. Very possible the O ring got messed up, but I would have expected better.

I will get to the bottom of it regardless. This is a good impetus to do my own changes going forward. Fumoto valve will be on order soon.

In any event, a big thank you to the community here. While this has been frustrating it has also been a really nice introduction to you all and I very much appreciate you taking the time to troubleshoot and help.

 

[Mingus Dew]

Realistically the plastic part isn't all that bad as long as it isn't over-tightened

Plenty of members here happily trucking along to 200k on theirs without an issue.

As for why we got the plastic part.. it is tucked up so high that there isn't much risk of physical damage from contact with anything, and it can clearly handle the chemical/temperature/pressure requirements without issue.

Agreed, a lesson learned. Genuine Toyota, or whoever makes it for them.

I purchased this today as well:

64.3mm 14 Flute Oil Filter Wrench - Fits Toyota, Lexus, Honda

Toyota oil filter wrench from Motivx Tools. 64mm 14 flute design is a perfect fit for many late model Camry, RAV4, Highlander, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, and more. MX2320-US | Professional grade | Made In USA | Limited Lifetime Warranty | Precision CNC Machined | 2 Drive Options

www.motivxtools.com

It's going to stay in the car, and whether I'm using it or a mechanic is I will have some piece of mind that they aren't wrecking the plastic housing.

Lessons not learned in blood (err, motor oil) are soon forgotten.

 

[bloc]

I purchased this today as well:

64.3mm 14 Flute Oil Filter Wrench - Fits Toyota, Lexus, Honda

Toyota oil filter wrench from Motivx Tools. 64mm 14 flute design is a perfect fit for many late model Camry, RAV4, Highlander, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, and more. MX2320-US | Professional grade | Made In USA | Limited Lifetime Warranty | Precision CNC Machined | 2 Drive Options

www.motivxtools.com

It's going to stay in the car, and whether I'm using it or a mechanic is I will have some piece of mind that they aren't wrecking the plastic housing.

Lessons not learned in blood (err, motor oil) are soon forgotten.

Should serve you well.

Again, congrats on the great looking rig.. go get it dirty soon!

 

[UPR LC]

Realistically the plastic part isn't all that bad as long as it isn't over-tightened

Plenty of members here happily trucking along to 200k on theirs without an issue.

As for why we got the plastic part.. it is tucked up so high that there isn't much risk of physical damage from contact with anything, and it can clearly handle the chemical/temperature/pressure requirements without issue.

Agreed, a lesson learned. Genuine Toyota, or whoever makes it for them.

Same here, no problems with the plastic caps on several Toyota vehicles over the years, but I do change my own oil and do not over torque the filter housing or drain plug.

 

[Mingus Dew]

Two more for you all.

First picture, can anyone tell me what part I’m looking at? Appears to be some kind of heat shield on the exhaust (2 on each side, all on the front half of the vehicle). The housing itself is in good shape on all four, but all of the screws are completely rusted out and I’d like to replace. I’m fine ordering 4 new shields (?) in their entirety assuming they aren’t crazy expensive. But need some guidance or a part number.

Second picture - turns out when I said there was no visible rust on the KDSS I didn’t know what I was talking about. In any event, there is clear surface corrosion on the plate. The bolts look OK, but I haven’t tried to open them (never more than 3 rotations) yet. On the list for this week. Assuming they aren’t seized I will add this to the list for the rust restoration. Seems like folks either use an anti-seize in the threads and leave the bolts alone until they do a lift or marine grease the whole setup every time they lube the drive shaft. Thoughts on best way to prevent the rust from coming back after I have this cleaned up?

 

[bloc]

Those are your catalytic converters and the thermal shields that protect everything else under the vehicle from the huge amount of radiant energy they produce. The bolts and nuts are available separately.. If only two cats need them its four bolts, if all four cats need them it's eight.
Bolts: 90105-06011
Nuts: 90179-06007

That KDSS valve rust is completely fine, and better off than probably 99% of other LCs. Just use a wire brush to knock the stuff you can get to off, and coat with either LPS3 (aircraft industry grade, harder to find, more expensive, but designed for this exact purpose) or a thin layer of marine grease. You are free to remove the outer shield before doing so to gain better access.

With your climate you probably won't need to reapply for years, but it's good to have a look at the coating once per year.

If you were truly OCD you could open the balance screws NO MORE THAN THREE TURNS, lube the threads that are then exposed, then turn them back in. If you elect to do this, do it on flat ground, and only tighten them again to 9ft-lbf of torque.

Personally, given the condition of your undercarriage otherwise, I wouldn't bother with the screws if you don't already have a torque wrench that easily goes that low.

 

[Mingus Dew]

Those are your catalytic converters and the thermal shields that protect everything else under the vehicle from the huge amount of radiant energy they produce. The bolts and nuts are available separately.. If only two cats need them its four bolts, if all four cats need them it's eight.
Bolts: 90105-06011
Nuts: 90179-06007

That KDSS valve rust is completely fine, and better off than probably 99% of other LCs. Just use a wire brush to knock the stuff you can get to off, and coat with either LPS3 (aircraft industry grade, harder to find, more expensive, but designed for this exact purpose) or a thin layer of marine grease. You are free to remove the outer shield before doing so to gain better access.

With your climate you probably won't need to reapply for years, but it's good to have a look at the coating once per year.

If you were truly OCD you could open the balance screws NO MORE THAN THREE TURNS, lube the threads that are then exposed, then turn them back in. If you elect to do this, do it on flat ground, and only tighten them again to 9ft-lbf of torque.

Personally, given the condition of your undercarriage otherwise, I wouldn't bother with the screws if you don't already have a torque wrench that easily goes that low.

Thank you! I thought those might be cats but I couldn’t imagine having four of those things on one vehicle. Wowzers. I will order a full set of nuts and bolts and replace the whole bunch. Super helpful.

Noted on the KDSS. I will get as much rust off as I can and grease everything up.

I’d like to avoid messing with the screws unless absolutely necessary. If you think chances of seizure are de minimus I’m not going to mess with them.

Seriously, you are the man. Thank you again.

 

[Mingus Dew]

As an update, the ole faithful plastic assembly is back in the vehicle.

Mechanic was good about it, cleaned everything up and apologized for the hassle. It looks like the "leak" was in fact spillage from the original filter change that had pooled. Regardless, not going to recommend that Dorman assembly to anyone under the circumstances.

He had a gorgeous FJ40 in the shop that had been fully restored (not by him). Thing was mint, although it had racing style seats in it which is a bit of a head scratcher.

As for the cat protector bolts, he hit them with penetrating lube and the goal is to get all 8 off the vehicle at some point next week. Mechanic is not optimistic and thinks there's a high likelihood they snap.

There is another part of the driver's side exhaust assembly that is badly rusted (where the front exhaust assembly meets the muffler assembly, with two large bolts holding everything together). Can't rust proof the exhaust anyways, so if things are too far gone I'm going to just drive happy until the exhaust fails and then replace the whole shebang. No rattles or issues at this juncture.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

As an update, the ole faithful plastic assembly is back in the vehicle.

Mechanic was good about it, cleaned everything up and apologized for the hassle. It looks like the "leak" was in fact spillage from the original filter change that had pooled. Regardless, not going to recommend that Dorman assembly to anyone under the circumstances.

He had a gorgeous FJ40 in the shop that had been fully restored (not by him). Thing was mint, although it had racing style seats in it which is a bit of a head scratcher.

As for the cat protector bolts, he hit them with penetrating lube and the goal is to get all 8 off the vehicle at some point next week. Mechanic is not optimistic and thinks there's a high likelihood they snap.

There is another part of the driver's side exhaust assembly that is badly rusted (where the front exhaust assembly meets the muffler assembly, with two large bolts holding everything together). Can't rust proof the exhaust anyways, so if things are too far gone I'm going to just drive happy until the exhaust fails and then replace the whole shebang. No rattles or issues at this juncture.

So the Dorman was actually OK ? I ask not because I used the Dorman, I did the Venza with center-tube swap, but because I sometimes give recommendations.

 

[Mingus Dew]

So the Dorman was actually OK ? I ask not because I used the Dorman, I did the Venza with center-tube swap, but because I sometimes give recommendations.

Inconclusive. It was not actively dripping when he replaced it is my understanding. But not clear whether the "pooling" occurred all at the time of the original filter change or whether the Dorman contributed after the fact.

I'd need more information to recommend it, personally. It seems like some other folks have had problems in the past - coupled with my headaches I'm going to stay away.

As always though, any port in a storm. If someone needs a stop gap solution while they get their hands on an OEM plastic assembly or the Venza assembly I'm sure the car will survive.

 

[gasman4u]

As an update, the ole faithful plastic assembly is back in the vehicle.

Mechanic was good about it, cleaned everything up and apologized for the hassle. It looks like the "leak" was in fact spillage from the original filter change that had pooled. Regardless, not going to recommend that Dorman assembly to anyone under the circumstances.

He had a gorgeous FJ40 in the shop that had been fully restored (not by him). Thing was mint, although it had racing style seats in it which is a bit of a head scratcher.

As for the cat protector bolts, he hit them with penetrating lube and the goal is to get all 8 off the vehicle at some point next week. Mechanic is not optimistic and thinks there's a high likelihood they snap.

There is another part of the driver's side exhaust assembly that is badly rusted (where the front exhaust assembly meets the muffler assembly, with two large bolts holding everything together). Can't rust proof the exhaust anyways, so if things are too far gone I'm going to just drive happy until the exhaust fails and then replace the whole shebang. No rattles or issues at this juncture.

If you can, try to hit the bolts with "Kroil" or "aerokroil" penetrating lubricant. That stuff is expensive, but it's by far the best stuff I've used and IMO would give you the best bet of those bolts coming off intact without creative measures.