68-72 my favorite Vettes.
My new find... 1999 LX470 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TEXAS 57
- Start date
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Searched for the user name on eBay. Any chance you have the direct link. Wanted to save it for the future.
are you looking to sell your old LX wheels?
- Thread starter
- #84
Sorry, I mistyped it. (I corrected the earlier post)
98-07 LEXUS LX470 Toyota LAND CRUISER ABS ANTI-LOCK PUMP Motor/actuator Rebuilt | eBay
For sale is a Rebuilt/remanufactured master cylinder brake booster electric pump motor. This pump motor is used, but recently taken apart and rebuilt. The pump motor works like new! This will fit 1998-2007 lexus lx470 and Toyota landcruisers.
www.ebay.com
Not sure yet. Send me a PM. I still have them on the car now.
I picked these up too super cheap.
Thanks added to watch list
- Thread starter
- #86
Well, I went bleed the brakes and both rear bleeders broke off. I used penetrates, heat, welded a nub on, drilled out, EZ Out and no success. This is the first time I have been defeated on this truck. Dang! I bought two new rear Raybestos rebuilt calipers and installed them and bled the system. Works great now.
While replacing, I stumbled across someone else's mistake. I can guess that someone put the rear brake pad on backwards as there are grooves in the rotor and the back (metal part) of the pad. They must have noticed it immediately and switched it around. The pads are near new and everything runs smooth and quiet so I will leave that until the next Brake Job.
I had no E-Brake previously so I adjusted it to function again.
Brake lines look great. Plenty of flex and no cracking.
Bell cranks looked good and function great so I lubed them up and moved on.
I am always so surprised at how well the rubber holds up after all the years (bell crank seals, E-brake adj plug, caliper dust shields, etc...).
Still some vibes from the front end while braking so I will need to check that out when I pull the CVs to reboot.
While replacing, I stumbled across someone else's mistake. I can guess that someone put the rear brake pad on backwards as there are grooves in the rotor and the back (metal part) of the pad. They must have noticed it immediately and switched it around. The pads are near new and everything runs smooth and quiet so I will leave that until the next Brake Job.
I had no E-Brake previously so I adjusted it to function again.
Brake lines look great. Plenty of flex and no cracking.
Bell cranks looked good and function great so I lubed them up and moved on.
I am always so surprised at how well the rubber holds up after all the years (bell crank seals, E-brake adj plug, caliper dust shields, etc...).
Still some vibes from the front end while braking so I will need to check that out when I pull the CVs to reboot.
- Thread starter
- #87
Alright... I had to halt work on this one for a while... The shady little car lot couldn't get me a title. I had to threaten them with a lawsuit letter to get them to get a boded title. It has been a year and 3 months but I got a title and plates. I shall commence work on this soon.
I have been driving it all this time off and on and it works great. I have put about 4,000 miles on it over the year.
Reiterate my list to finish:
Finish Back door panels
Re Dye Door panels
Install Belt Trim
Install rear door check straps
Timing Belt / Water Pump
Front Diff Bushings
Sort 3rd row seating
Change some fluids
Do some more paint cleaning / dent removal
Power steering hoses
Probably other stuff that pops up or is slipping my mind...
I have been driving it all this time off and on and it works great. I have put about 4,000 miles on it over the year.
Reiterate my list to finish:
Finish Back door panels
Re Dye Door panels
Install Belt Trim
Install rear door check straps
Timing Belt / Water Pump
Front Diff Bushings
Sort 3rd row seating
Change some fluids
Do some more paint cleaning / dent removal
Power steering hoses
Probably other stuff that pops up or is slipping my mind...
- Thread starter
- #88
It has been a while since I updated and I need to…
An odd thing about this truck that I really didn’t notice at first but the rear door check straps have been ripped out of the sheet metal in the doors. That’s annoying. They just swing all around. Metal fatigue?
Oh well, let’s weld them up.
I got another used set of check straps off a part out in case these were bad.
After a little measuring, I cut up some bed frame angle iron and prepped it.
An odd thing about this truck that I really didn’t notice at first but the rear door check straps have been ripped out of the sheet metal in the doors. That’s annoying. They just swing all around. Metal fatigue?
Oh well, let’s weld them up.
I got another used set of check straps off a part out in case these were bad.
After a little measuring, I cut up some bed frame angle iron and prepped it.
- Thread starter
- #89
Went well. Forgive my welding… I can make it stick but it ain’t pretty.
Let’s get this doors back on!
I had a little issue with the door closed, the check strap would barely hit the window when it came down but I tweaked the mount a tad and it worked fine!
Let’s get this doors back on!
I had a little issue with the door closed, the check strap would barely hit the window when it came down but I tweaked the mount a tad and it worked fine!
- Thread starter
- #90
While I was painting, the black I decided to shoot my door tweeter covers (they had light surface rust).
Then, over this summer, the door locks started acting up… better switch those motors out.
Look at the 400k miles of elbow wear on that door panel.
And a little reglueing of the trim. It was rolling up.
Then, over this summer, the door locks started acting up… better switch those motors out.
Look at the 400k miles of elbow wear on that door panel.
And a little reglueing of the trim. It was rolling up.
- Thread starter
- #91
Someone suggested the vinyl spray die color and I bought it and after sitting on the shelf for a year I decided to use it. It is a perfect match. It looked so good I pulled the rest of the panels and did those too.
- Thread starter
- #92
I was having a lot of wind noise so I removed the two sides of windshield trim and found that they were screwed in with self tappers and this…
Yuck
Look at all the layers above…
After getting it all out and prepped, I rattle can’d it.
Nice and clean.
Yuck
Look at all the layers above…
After getting it all out and prepped, I rattle can’d it.
Nice and clean.
- Thread starter
- #93
I JB welded the screw holes and got the proper Toyota rivets and reinstalled the trim.
I had to space out the river with a nut to get the rivet gun that far in.
Cardboard to protect the windshield.
Glued the roof rail back down.
No more whistles on the freeway. Not sure if it was the globs on top of the roof causing it not to sit flush or the extra holes I filled in. You can also see the sun fading of the black cowl piece after a year or so sitting in the sun. The heating up was a waste of time. You can also see the SilBlades wipers are finally tearing after being transferred from the Land Cruiser. They were installed on the LC in Dec 2017. They still work great, but time to replace.
I had to space out the river with a nut to get the rivet gun that far in.
Cardboard to protect the windshield.
Glued the roof rail back down.
No more whistles on the freeway. Not sure if it was the globs on top of the roof causing it not to sit flush or the extra holes I filled in. You can also see the sun fading of the black cowl piece after a year or so sitting in the sun. The heating up was a waste of time. You can also see the SilBlades wipers are finally tearing after being transferred from the Land Cruiser. They were installed on the LC in Dec 2017. They still work great, but time to replace.
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I very much enjoy your write ups! Keep it up.
Excellent work! My cowl piece is faded similarly, someone on here suggested trying back to black on it.
- Thread starter
- #96
Not much yesterday but some “gussying up” of the ol girl.
Lexus badge was missing and paint was marked so I slapped a new badge on. We are fancy now!
These little screw covers on the door handle escutcheons kept popping open so I got 2 new ones.
The battery hold down was acid eaten up so I pulled out the battery, washed cleaned and waxed under the battery tray, cleaned the battery tray, and reinstalled it with a new positive lead cover and new battery hold down.
Lexus badge was missing and paint was marked so I slapped a new badge on. We are fancy now!
These little screw covers on the door handle escutcheons kept popping open so I got 2 new ones.
The battery hold down was acid eaten up so I pulled out the battery, washed cleaned and waxed under the battery tray, cleaned the battery tray, and reinstalled it with a new positive lead cover and new battery hold down.
- Thread starter
- #98
I have a 1000 mile round trip from far west Houston, TX to Venice, LA over this coming weekend. In order to get her ready, I swapped the original wheels and 10 year old tires for the Tundra wheels and tires I bought (tires are only 4 years old).
It sure does update the look a little and they took some small vibrations out of (what I thought was) the driveline.
I greased all the zerks and swapped out the front, mid, and rear differential fluids.
I found a couple broken bolts on the skid plates I will need to address later.
It sure does update the look a little and they took some small vibrations out of (what I thought was) the driveline.
I greased all the zerks and swapped out the front, mid, and rear differential fluids.
I found a couple broken bolts on the skid plates I will need to address later.
- Thread starter
- #99
Well, not much has happened except daily driving. I had the driveline clunk at most times and a driveline vibration on deceleration. I knew the front diff bushings were bad from previous inspections.
What I found was surprising. On the diff cover bushing, at some point, someone inserted a large horribly drilled out ID washer I guess to take up slack (highlighted w/ green arrow in third pic). The actual bushing pads were completely gone except one (maybe because the power steering leak).
Like typical, it wasn’t easy to get out. I used a chisel and hammer, air chisel, and finally went with the Vice Grip and Hammer method and it came right out. Air chisel not required and I won’t use it on my other LC.
Highlighted extra washer and you can also see the internal part of the bushing that just fell out.
Cup bushing as it came out.
Cleaned up the housing with a scuff pad on a drill and filed some small chisel damage. Used a ball joint press to install new one. I did have to file the Febest leading edge all the way around as it was bulged from the manufacturing process.
It is amazing the difference in driving. Most of the driveline vibes are gone especially the deceleration vibrations.
Took about 2-1/2 hrs with cleanup and skids R&R.
I used:
Ft diff cover set:
Febest TAB 333 cup bushing (needed to be filed)
Febest TAB 334 mounting pad
Rear arm set:
Febest TAB 332 cup bushing (did not use)
Febest TAB 335 mounting pad (replaced - old one was crushed)
Driver side arm bushing:
SuperPro SPF3575K (did not use)
Just wanted to get this done because I am driving 4-500 miles around April 1 to Venice, LA to go fishing.
What I found was surprising. On the diff cover bushing, at some point, someone inserted a large horribly drilled out ID washer I guess to take up slack (highlighted w/ green arrow in third pic). The actual bushing pads were completely gone except one (maybe because the power steering leak).
Like typical, it wasn’t easy to get out. I used a chisel and hammer, air chisel, and finally went with the Vice Grip and Hammer method and it came right out. Air chisel not required and I won’t use it on my other LC.
Highlighted extra washer and you can also see the internal part of the bushing that just fell out.
Cup bushing as it came out.
Cleaned up the housing with a scuff pad on a drill and filed some small chisel damage. Used a ball joint press to install new one. I did have to file the Febest leading edge all the way around as it was bulged from the manufacturing process.
It is amazing the difference in driving. Most of the driveline vibes are gone especially the deceleration vibrations.
Took about 2-1/2 hrs with cleanup and skids R&R.
I used:
Ft diff cover set:
Febest TAB 333 cup bushing (needed to be filed)
Febest TAB 334 mounting pad
Rear arm set:
Febest TAB 332 cup bushing (did not use)
Febest TAB 335 mounting pad (replaced - old one was crushed)
Driver side arm bushing:
SuperPro SPF3575K (did not use)
Just wanted to get this done because I am driving 4-500 miles around April 1 to Venice, LA to go fishing.
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- Thread starter
- #100
Well she did the 900 mile trip flawlessly. No vibration on deceleration (I used to have that) but have a vibration on acceleration and speed maintaining.
The driver side arm (torque tube) bushing was not centered and seemed weak so I decided to replace it next.
Those mounting bolts were tough to break loose. I used several methods to get the old bushing out (hole saw to remove the inner metal bolt guide, reciprocating saw to cut the metal outer piece, and a hammer and punch to knock it loose) and then it came right out.
Installation was a booger. I started by initially starting the bushing first with a dead blow hammer. Then I set up a jig in my big 8” vise and turned it in halfway. When I could get no more progress, I removed it and rocked it with the dead blow on the floor. When that progress stopped, I got out the ball joint kit and set it up and hit it with the electric impact driver until it seated. None of this above was easy and I will just buy the arm next time (I will still have to do this again because I bought two sets of front diff bushings for both trucks). Cleaned the arm, painted it, dated it and reinstalled.
Driving impressions after this - not a dramatic changed. I can tell it was smoother overall though.
The back is next.
The driver side arm (torque tube) bushing was not centered and seemed weak so I decided to replace it next.
Those mounting bolts were tough to break loose. I used several methods to get the old bushing out (hole saw to remove the inner metal bolt guide, reciprocating saw to cut the metal outer piece, and a hammer and punch to knock it loose) and then it came right out.
Installation was a booger. I started by initially starting the bushing first with a dead blow hammer. Then I set up a jig in my big 8” vise and turned it in halfway. When I could get no more progress, I removed it and rocked it with the dead blow on the floor. When that progress stopped, I got out the ball joint kit and set it up and hit it with the electric impact driver until it seated. None of this above was easy and I will just buy the arm next time (I will still have to do this again because I bought two sets of front diff bushings for both trucks). Cleaned the arm, painted it, dated it and reinstalled.
Driving impressions after this - not a dramatic changed. I can tell it was smoother overall though.
The back is next.
