My new find... 1999 LX470 (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Thanks. I agree completely. I should have mentioned after washing and running with city water I did the last flush with 3 gallons of Distilled Water before draining and refilling with Toyota Red and Distilled. I don't want to risk Dielectric Corrosion from the inside. I also took my shop Vac, reversed to make a blower, and blew the water out of the block and radiator...

While the Belt was off, I had too much spin in the Idler and Tensioner Pulley Bearings. One or both also squeak a little.
Anyone know the Replacement Bearing #s?
I would prefer a Timken or NSK, maybe a SKF...

Good Macguyvering using shop vac. I use compressed air when I need too. I found block holds about a qts, and heater cores about 3 qts. I can blow out about 3 qts at best after draining 3 gallons.

Idler pulley, some have used off the shelve bearing. But they must use spacers also. 6301 bearing as idler pulley bearing I use OEM (last longest 100K plus) or aftermarket like Hayden (Okay 50K plus) Idler Pulley Bearing, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)

Tensioner bearing we can find at most parts store for $10 to $15 and just replace bearing see post #8 Coolant leak at water inlet and.. If tensioner spring is weak just replace the whole tensioner with OEM, which comes with pulley and bearing.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Good Macguyvering using shop vac. I use compressed air when I need too. I found block holds about a qts, and heater cores about 3 qts. I can blow out about 3 qts at best after draining 3 gallons.

I got just shy of 4 gallons out the first drain of coolant. I did not keep track of the drain / refills but blew it out on the last one and figure it is good.

Idler pulley, some have used off the shelve bearing. But they must use spacers also. 6301 bearing as idler pulley bearing I use OEM (last longest 100K plus) or aftermarket like Hayden (Okay 50K plus) Idler Pulley Bearing, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)

Cool... A 6301 bearing with dust skirts. I may have one on the shelf. Where are those spacers / washers from? They look machined.

Tensioner bearing we can find at most parts store for $10 to $15 and just replace bearing see post #8 Coolant leak at water inlet and.. If tensioner spring is weak just replace the whole tensioner with OEM, which comes with pulley and bearing.

The tensioner is very strong. I will get a parts house one. Thanks for your input... Saves me some digging...

 

[dwh13]

My AHC had the same issues as yours, and my solution was the same as @neckbone - I disassembled the AHC switch and the high button contact was corroded. Tried to clean it but got nowhere. New switch was $40 on eBay and fixed it.

Side note - yours may be my favorite thread! I've done a lot of similar projects on my LX and love seeing these things getting some TLC rather than full on builds.

 

[CBeckFJ]

Here ya go.
Black CCFL Halo Projector Headlights RH + LH For 1998-2007 Lexus LX470 Black CCFL Halo Projector Headlights RH + LH For 1998-2007 Lexus LX470 | eBay

Thanks! Are they glass or plastic? The Original lights are glass and I was curious if these are the same or plastic.

 

[TEXAS 57]

For the AHC, have you tried a switch that you know works? Mine stopped going into high setting. When I’d push the switch to high, the indicator light wouldn’t even blink on high like it’s supposed to. I got a switch from another mud member, pulled mine and installed the new one. Now it works perfectly. Maybe you’ll have the same luck.

My AHC had the same issues as yours, and my solution was the same as @neckbone - I disassembled the AHC switch and the high button contact was corroded. Tried to clean it but got nowhere. New switch was $40 on eBay and fixed it.

Side note - yours may be my favorite thread! I've done a lot of similar projects on my LX and love seeing these things getting some TLC rather than full on builds.

Thanks for the heads up... I will pull the switch apart and see what I find. Hopefully, that is all that it is. I really want to keep the AHC. Even with Double the miles, it rides better than our 100 LC with all new Tokico shocks. I like the selective ride as well.

Thanks for the compliment @dwh13 - I like basket cases (with no rust). I find it therapeutic.

I am really hoping for a 3-car detached garage on the next house but it is tough to find in our price range in the area with the schools we want. We only have a week and a half to make a decision. My 2-car detached is very full of automotive, general construction, Kayaks, Fishing Equipment, a 57 Chevy, bicycles and yard equipment.

Thanks! Are they glass or plastic? The Original lights are glass and I was curious if these are the same or plastic.

These are Plastic. After getting the new rock hole in the good OEM glass one on my second tank of gas and first trip on the freeway I was actually happy about plastic.

On a side note, I have done 2 tanks of gas that I have measured. I got 15.67 MPG on the first (with BG 44K) and 12.67 MPG on the second. Both tanks had a lot of idle time in the driveway and a lot of romping on the gas. I would guess on the second tank, at least 1/4 of it was idling, testing and using the failing alternator to juice up the battery.

I did get the LX where I wanted it before the move. I might do tires before as well.

 

[2001LC]

I replace the idler pulley with either OEM or a Hayden (RockAuto) some others around also like Gates IIRC. Look at thread I linked in and see where spacer from IDK.

Locally Idler at Toyota/Lexus Dealer is very pricey even wholesale. The Hayden www.Rockauto.com come with spacer for $25, it save time. www.partsouq.com has OEM ~$35. But unless putting together larger order and watching shipping gets pricey. Genuine Toyota Parts for 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser|Base 4.7L V8 - Gas | Toyota Parts also has for okay price. Again if putting large order together makes spreading shipping cost okay.

I have actually found I can get the correct bearing for the idler. But there is a catch. It's special order only, and I must drive across town. By the time I'm done it's 3 hour and $60 to $70 dollars (bearing and vehicle cost). They actually require I buy the case in some places, to get price of ~$35 just for bearing. The drive saves me buying cases. Just resolved years ago, too just replace with OEM or aftermarket the idler pulley.

There is a video on mud somewhere, showing how the seal can be removed from bearing. Then bearing cleaned and repacked with grease. This is interesting. But now we back to "time" to do that or just replace it. Also bearing & race condition is questionable.

One thing I found if either bearing marginal (noisy). Washing area and water hits them, they get very noisy and go bad fast. I like really cleaning engine. This is especially true if hunting leaks, pulling intake, TB job, PS flush, coils & plugs, etc.

So I pull drive belt and both pulleys off. Air box off. Cover/plug all holes/hoses. Then I power wash really well. I hit top of engine last and have front end higher so water flows back off intake to head area and valley out back drain holes below starter. I run engine when I'm done to dry and or blow with HP air. Over the years I've learned what to watch for. I need to update this thread sometime.
Engine wash

Water can enter at intake ports on head. From gasket and injectors. So as said, I do top area last, blow off and run engine to dry. If engine sits with water in it's intake port two weeks, rust forms in valve guides and cylinder walls of open valves. This is more with the VVT engine but all 2UZ 4.7L will do this.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Well, been busy house hunting and luckily we got one and guess what? I got a 4 car garage!
This is the sellers stuff. We close in mid May.
The garage has a separate 220v 50 amp outlet for a welder and a 30 amp 220v for an air compressor. It also has plumbing for a sink. Pretty cool.

I changed the idler and tensionor pulleys out and I am still getting a chirp. My guess is it timing pulley bearings or water pump. That will have to wait till after the move.

I wanted to clean the skid plates before I put them back on so I could detect any leaks later.

All clean after much elbow grease.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Wow!! 2 cruisers a wife and young family AND a 4 car garage! You are living right brother

 

[TEXAS 57]

Wow!! 2 cruisers a wife and young family AND a 4 car garage! You are living right brother

If you hadn’t helped me with that pre 2002 MFD Nav delete on the Land Cruiser she wouldn’t be happy now! Thanks again for that.
She loved the house, I loved the garage. It was a match for sure. It was also only on the market for one day. We missed out on a couple 3 car garage houses and I was getting worried I would have to settle on an oversized 2 car... whew...

 

[TEXAS 57]

Alright, I ran a green scouring pad over the skid plate and shot it with gloss black rattle can lacquer. Looks tons better!

I took y’all’s advice and decided to look at the switch for the AHC. I am sure it has had plenty of cokes and coffees spilled over it and it showed. I took it all apart and soaked the non electrical parts and cleaned them with a toothbrush. To my surprise, there are light bulbs in this switch (mine never worked).

This is really a very simple switch. See the red arrow? Contacts not connecting due to corrosion. That is the high button.

With a Dremel with a brass wire wheel, I cleaned every electrical contact including the light bulbs.

All cleaned up. I put it back together with dielectric grease and guess what? It worked.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Up...

...and down...

 

[dwh13]

Glad to see that worked for you! I wasn’t so lucky with my switch, the corrosion was too bad. Glad it wasn’t anything more serious though!

My AHC switch wouldn't put the truck into High. I tore it apart and saw the contact was corroded. Cleaning did no good, so I replaced the switch.

• dwh13
• Aug 9, 2018

 

[TEXAS 57]

Glad to see that worked for you! I wasn’t so lucky with my switch, the corrosion was too bad. Glad it wasn’t anything more serious though!

My AHC switch wouldn't put the truck into High. I tore it apart and saw the contact was corroded. Cleaning did no good, so I replaced the switch.

• dwh13
• Aug 9, 2018

Thanks for the suggestion. About 20 minutes and $0.00...

My light bulbs still don't work. I think the contacts on the bulbs themselves are too corroded.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Well, we are in the middle of our move and have closed on our new house. Gotta spend some $$$$ on a washer, dryer and a fridge because we left them at the old house. I was looking for a used set of wheels and tires to get me by for a while and these popped up with 80% tires fairly cheap so now, they are the first addition to the new garage.

I also threw a crazy low offer for a set of tundra 16/18 hole steelies a while back and the guy said no initially, but he contacted me yesterday saying he will take the offer so I will get those on Monday. No tires with those wheels... I really like the utilitarian look of the steelies on a luxury SUV.

I bought some LED bulbs for the AHC switch but could not get them to work while in the switch. As I am busy packing, it will have to wait. It may be a while before any work gets done on Lexi...

 

[CBeckFJ]

I had the day off today because my Aunts, Uncles and Cousins were in town so I took advantage of last night and got some work done.
I pulled the air box, MAF, intake lines (my first venture under the hood in this one). Filthy. The throttle body needs a deep clean, air filter looks decent and the bottom of the air box was awfully dirty.

View attachment 1933002

The intake, not being my objective, I yanked the broken OEM headlights and park lights.
View attachment 1933007

I then tested and installed the eBay Eagle Eyes headlights. Everything worked so I installed them. I wired the Halos and LEDs to the parking light circuit.
View attachment 1933003
Parking lamps on.
View attachment 1933004
We took the kids to the dentist this morning so I drove behind my wife so she could tell me if they were blinding. They had a closely equal cut on a nearby fence and she had no complaints so they will do for now until I have time to properly align them.
Walking out of the dentist, I saw this and it looked so good I had to take a pic.
View attachment 1933006

I fiddled around with AHC a little with Techstream and it lowers but can’t get it to go into high. It does return to Normal when driven but not when sitting. High setting does not work at all.
I also notice my alternator doesn’t seem to be putting out excellent voltage all the time right now. I have a spare Denso unit so I will install that soon. I hope the one that is on it is a Denso so I can rebuild it.

I know this post is old but do you have any pictures of the light ouput?

 

[TEXAS 57]

I know this post is old but do you have any pictures of the light ouput?

I have used it for back and forth to work in Houston. I drive to work in the dark. I could drive to work with my lights off and not have any visibility issues due to all the street lights... I have yet to drive it out in the country or long freeways at night.

From what I can remember on the Lexus, the sight distance is shorter with the new ones. It is definitely a shorter distance than my factory 2002 LC. It is comparable or better than my 2002 factory style (Depo) 3rd gen 4Runner lights. I am pretty sure every headlight is better than the early (1996-1998) 3rd Gen 4Runner lights.

 

[TEXAS 57]

It has been a while getting settled in to the new house. I have talked to the previous owner who modified the original plans with the builder. He added 6’ to the front of the house to allow an Ford F-250 Crew Cab to park in the garage. After some quick organizing, I can fit the 57, the Land Cruiser (with 7’ in front or behind it), a 1930 Ford Coupe (holding for dad for a while), and all the kid’s toys. It is hard to believe there is this much room.

The double pump brake issue returned shortly after rebuilding the master cylinder so I purchased the rebuilt pump motor from that guy on eBay everyone uses, karpartzaddictionz72. Nice looking piece.
I pulled the Master Cylinder and replaced the old one and put it back in. Turned it on and everything worked fine. I will bleed the system today or tomorrow (or when I get time).

 

[2001LC]

Be interesting to see condition of commutator inside your old motor and to know if control wire had any corrosion or discoloration on the leads or screws?

 

[flintknapper]

Everyone should have a chopped highboy in their garage. Nice!

 

[TEXAS 57]

Be interesting to see condition of commutator inside your old motor and to know if control wire had any corrosion or discoloration on the leads or screws?

The Motor side of the wires was perfect. It looked brand new. On the other connection was a little rusty and corroded. I wire brushed them, broke them loose, dielectric greased them and reinstalled. Boot was perfect, very flexible, and on... I thought it was odd... Maybe brake fluid got in and brought moisture in?
I got a pic of the Motor side but did not get a pic of the other side.

Everyone should have a chopped highboy in their garage. Nice!

Thanks. It is cool. Everyone in this neighborhood has UTVs and Golf Carts for going to the pool. We take the Coupe.

Pops bought a nice all original 1970 Vette removable hardtop 350HP 350ci / 4 speed matching #s factory air car with 33k miles on it so he needs room right now.