Interested in this as well.
My immobilizer fix (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter medtro
- Start date
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IMHO, it doesn't matter what it costs...as you're ****ed when your UZJ100 won't start and you're out in the middle of BFE or BFN (BumFukNevada) when it decides to rear its ugly head leaving you stranded and wishing you either had this kit in your on-board parts/tool kit or had installed the mod before you needed it.
True story.
True story.
PM sent
- Thread starter
- #244
PM replied.
Are you still able to make this bypass and what are you charging for it? I am running into the same issue, except my voltage drop is from my C terminal.
- Thread starter
- #246
PM replied.
I am also interested
- Thread starter
- #248
PM sent.
Could I get this info as well, please?
- Thread starter
- #250
Yes, PM sent.
I decided to make this bypass myself. After some trial and error it worked out.
Version 1 worked but gave P1600 code.
Version 2 which has wires from A, C, D, E and F took care of P1600 code.
It did work second day too so I am confident. Thanks everyone for the thread.
Version 1 worked but gave P1600 code.
Version 2 which has wires from A, C, D, E and F took care of P1600 code.
It did work second day too so I am confident. Thanks everyone for the thread.
For those of us with growing paranoia about this issue......Is it safe to say we could just carry a jumper cable long enough to get from the F to battery + to provide a temporary fix if this happens while out on the trail?
Yes
Is something smaller like a 14AWG wire sufficient? I can't imagine this would require much amperage to work.
Should work.
Just an update - so I made the jump harness and it worked about about 2 years then I started get hot wires after extended driving jumping it off of one of the blank fuses locations. I finally ordered the entire fuse box from the Middle East on e-bay and installed it about 2 months ago. Since the fuse box install - it has been flawless and not hot relays, etc. Maybe the jump harness will work long term for others, but the hot wires and resistance from the voltage supply (low voltage to the ECU) had me a bit worried. If you can - the fuse box replacement appears to be the real “fix”.
- Thread starter
- #257
Glad to hear new fuse box works out for you. Can you post pictures of your jump harness? What size wires did you use?
I built a couple of them - all 12-14 gauge wire. I don’t have pictures, but I built a couple with heat/crimp connectors and then soldered a couple more up. ALL of them got hot on both sides of the relay and I used 2 different OEM relays (original and new OEM). Driving 30-45 mins a non-issue, but driving over an hour and they started to get hot. And by “hot” I mean they melted the heat shrink on the crimp connectors. We are taking about a 10-15 AMP circuit based on the fuses so this should NOT be an issue. There is an obvious design/manufacturing issue tucked into the board inside the box. I have the old box and happy to split and it and take some pics, but wire size it not the issue - the issue is downstream in the box and I will bet that once it starts to fail - it is just a matter of time and wire size and the jumper are not a permanent fix. They can’t be is post fuse the ECU is not getting the same battery voltage - that just tells me that a bar inside the box degrades over time and the continuity is bad. The most AMPS would put through the degrading bar/connection - the hotter it will get and the faster it will fail.
BTW - I did the fuse upgrade and that worked for a while as well. Never blew the fuse, but eventually nothing would work on the fuse so so in came the jumper.
Based on my experience - the short is post relay and power to the ECU in the fuse box. It takes time for it to heat up the supply fuse and then that one is gone. You can upgrade the fuse, then move to another fuse location, but eventually it will fail. It is just a matter of time.
BTW - I did the fuse upgrade and that worked for a while as well. Never blew the fuse, but eventually nothing would work on the fuse so so in came the jumper.
Based on my experience - the short is post relay and power to the ECU in the fuse box. It takes time for it to heat up the supply fuse and then that one is gone. You can upgrade the fuse, then move to another fuse location, but eventually it will fail. It is just a matter of time.
- Thread starter
- #259
I have never seen one with melted heat shrink before. I believe your problem is you picked up the power from a fuse slot that has design flaw, compromised or unable to handle the load, that is where your heat source came from.
I would not upsize the fuse or connect to another fuse location in order to protect the fuse box. You don't want to have more melted internal parts in your fuse box. Connecting the kit to the battery will avoid the problems you mentioned. Many people have done it with no ill effect.
For clarification - the jumper was fused and never blew the fuse and I pulled power from an un-used fuse location in the box. I can sent pictures but the output power past the relay was melting so the issue was downstream of the relay power and between the relay and ECU. The immobilized issue is caused by a voltage drop before getting to the ECU caused by resistance in the fuse box.
Since I replaced the entire fuse box I have had zero issues.
Since I replaced the entire fuse box I have had zero issues.
