My immobilizer fix (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter medtro
- Start date
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So it looks like I am having this same issue. It started right up when I ran a wire from the positive battery terminal to "F". Can I drive like this or will it burn something up? And also- so i fully understand- the only proper fix is a new fuse box? Thanks for the help
You should try this. Way cheaper than a fuse box.
EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470
- Thread starter
- #64
Can you drive that like this? You probably can until something starts to smoke. You really should get it fixed.
So. I'm wondering if I have this problem. When it gets immobilized does it somehow cut the proper amount of power to the fuel pump making it so you have no fuel? Cause I have no fuel up to the filter. The wiggling of the fuses has got the truck to start on a couple other occasions. I wasn't aware other trucks were having these problems. I'm thinking my problem this time is the fuel pump but I have definitely experienced the what is described here. I have not noticed any light however. What does the immobilizer light look like?
So this appears to be my problem. I figured out what the immobilizer light is and where it is. It is still blinking when I put the key in. I did the jump wire from the battery and the truck started. It ran very poor and sputtered and died. I don't have a very big wire for jumping so maybe that's the problem. I will be going to NAPA in a few minutes to get bigger wire and all the connectors needed for a temporary fix. I'm going to have to use my oem relay temporarily so I can get home. I looked at some of the pics but I'm needing help on how to connect the oem relay to make this work.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thank you for this!
I never had the immobilizer light on when I started having non-starting issues.
The shop replaced the fuel computer and tightened up some wires under the fuse box. Everything started working for a few weeks, then it wouldn’t start again. But this time I the immobilizer light wouldn’t go off. It would always go off before, but car still didn’t start.
Finally jumped the wire as you did and car started right up! Now to build a bypass!
I never had the immobilizer light on when I started having non-starting issues.
The shop replaced the fuel computer and tightened up some wires under the fuse box. Everything started working for a few weeks, then it wouldn’t start again. But this time I the immobilizer light wouldn’t go off. It would always go off before, but car still didn’t start.
Finally jumped the wire as you did and car started right up! Now to build a bypass!
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So, I built the bypass, but my battery was so dead it wouldn’t even turn on dash lights. Jumping didn’t work so I ended up getting a replacement from the parts store. Thank goodness for warranties!
Bypass worked, car runs and drives great with the new battery as well. But, just like @BOB F , I now have the P1600 code.
Ironically, I searched for it and this is the thread it came back to!
I plan on redoing the fuse box for piece of mind, but this will at least get me going until I can fork over $500.
Bypass worked, car runs and drives great with the new battery as well. But, just like @BOB F , I now have the P1600 code.
Ironically, I searched for it and this is the thread it came back to!
I plan on redoing the fuse box for piece of mind, but this will at least get me going until I can fork over $500.
- Thread starter
- #70
What are the best or largest size spade connectors that work for the relay terminals to ensure the best connection?
Is there any reason not to use dielectric grease on the relay pins as a first measure?
Is there any reason not to use dielectric grease on the relay pins as a first measure?
- Thread starter
- #72
What I learned is what works best for me may not work for others. The best spade connectors for the relay terminals are the ones that work for you.
It won't hurt to apply dielectric grease.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
So I thought this happened to me. I was on the trail for a couple hours and when I stopped to take a break, I turned the truck completely off. Ready to go so I start the truck, turns over starts for a second and dies. Again. Same. Again but with full throttle. Dies. Pop the hood, do a reset by removing negative for a minute. While my buddy is tightening on the negative lead, I notice I have cell reception.
Perfect! MUD will know the answer. This thread shows up first. I skim it quickly and try swapping my spare 30A in to to the EFI 25A fuse. Starts right up and runs. That was Sunday and no issues as far as I can tell.
Weekend comes and I have some time. I watched that slick video on testing a relay so I make some 10ga with alligator clips and then try to pull the relay. I pull hard and the cap comes off with no relay inside. It's still on the fuse block so no testing with my clips. But I hear it clicking when I turn the key. Then I get to checking the plastic cover and instead of EFI it says ECD Main Relay 85915-30050. This is a 2007 LC. According to the diagram, it's the right one. So I put in the 25A fuse back in and it starts and runs (several times now) just fine. Now I'm not even sure I have a problem anymore but I'm confused why it didn't start when I was on the trail.
-Stumped in Portland
Perfect! MUD will know the answer. This thread shows up first. I skim it quickly and try swapping my spare 30A in to to the EFI 25A fuse. Starts right up and runs. That was Sunday and no issues as far as I can tell.
Weekend comes and I have some time. I watched that slick video on testing a relay so I make some 10ga with alligator clips and then try to pull the relay. I pull hard and the cap comes off with no relay inside. It's still on the fuse block so no testing with my clips. But I hear it clicking when I turn the key. Then I get to checking the plastic cover and instead of EFI it says ECD Main Relay 85915-30050. This is a 2007 LC. According to the diagram, it's the right one. So I put in the 25A fuse back in and it starts and runs (several times now) just fine. Now I'm not even sure I have a problem anymore but I'm confused why it didn't start when I was on the trail.
-Stumped in Portland
Hi there,
I’d like one of your bypass relay set ups.
Please let me know if you’re still able to make oue.
Thank you!
Simms
- Thread starter
- #75
Hi there,
I’d like one of your bypass relay set ups.
Please let me know if you’re still able to make oue.
Thank you!
Simms
Yes, I am still making them.
Hats off to you for making it sound so simple. Others who seem also to know what they're talking about seem to appreciate what you've done - and here where there are so many - that is a true complement for you.
Sadly, I don't have neither the experience nor the wisdom concerning these things, so even more so do I congratulate you.
Allow me to ask you, please:
Does this fix seem to have continued to hold up? Have you had to modify or - upon retrospect - would you now have done something different?
I am eager to hear your comments.
Sadly, I don't have neither the experience nor the wisdom concerning these things, so even more so do I congratulate you.
Allow me to ask you, please:
Does this fix seem to have continued to hold up? Have you had to modify or - upon retrospect - would you now have done something different?
I am eager to hear your comments.
- Thread starter
- #79
Thank you! Yes, it has continued to hold up since it was installed. Not a single crank but no start problem in over 2 years.
One thing I would do different is to use a different fuse holder. The spring in the fuse holder warmed up and baked the fuse holder pretty good. I have upgraded to a different fuse holder.
