Builds My first 80 Series (1 Viewer)

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I found a used oil pan that came in Thursday. I just need some good weather to begin engine removal.
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I had a couple of free hours today and wanted to get started on engine removal. A little while later a friend came to assist. To begin, remove skid plate which requires dropping stabilizer, drain antifreeze, remove battery/tray assembly, grill, and water hoses(3) from radiator.
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What is this green wire?
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And, don't forget to check steering stabilizer condition. Then,remove belts and supercharger belt followed by fan clutch, shroud, and trans cooler bolts.
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Then, we went on to remove more incidentals like the air filter housing, throttle/cruise cables, heater control valve, brake booster vacuum hose assembly, and fuel filter lines. Some of which are difficult/not worth photographing.
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Also found some extra parts that fell out on disassembly so far. Anyone know where they go?
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Engine stand came in and it's interesting how beat up the boxes are when they arrive. It's pretty heavy duty, hopefully it will handle the 1FZ-FE well.
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Where did you get the stand?
 
Thanks, I thought the Grommet might go there. The stand came from Harbor Freight. Snowed today. A shop would help:)
 
I'm wondering if the foam sponge is for one of the lines such as a/c going through the front radiator clip as seen above in "extra parts" pic?
 
Had a little bit of time to plug away at this again. Basically, just went through the shop manual back and forth if something was stubborn. I'm finding that the electrical connectors are not always easy to separate and I'm trying to be very careful not to break them. The first O2 sensor plug came off but the second did not want to separate it so I moved on.
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Removing ground wires...
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This bolt has not broken free yet:
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Removed positive battery cable off starter. Noticed the Napa starter had a 13mm nut on top. My guess is OEM that was 12mm.
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Some of the other connectors were stubborn too such as the alternator and this plug up above.
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Then remove the 3 rear console bolts and 4 upper console screws. One of the console screws was longer. Not sure if that's factory or not.
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Unplug the power switch.
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Found a tool, what I think are the heated seat plugs, and a shrimp tail!
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The shrimp tail is for the Cajun in me! :)
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Use a TEQ screwdriver to pull the shift lock cap and release the shifter so the console can be turned and removed.
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Began removing A/C compressor and water pipe by loosening the upper clamp and removing the 2 bracket nuts.
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Found a 22 mm socket fits the banjo bolt on the power steering pump. I was able to break this loose on the bottom of the banjo, but right now is welded to the bolt on top. Tried some penetrant on it prior to tapping it, but no go.
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Then began removing the glove box. 2 screws and it's out.
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Moved on to speaker removal, but was afraid to break it. Tried 2 screwdrivers and the top. Any suggestions?
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Then, finally found the oil sending unit on the passenger side above the A/C compressor. I've usually seen these closer to the oil filter and the drivers side of the engine sure has a lot of sensors on it.
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Removed stabilzer mounts. FSM says to remove from front axle too. Is this necessary to clear the drivetrain upon removal?
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Looking at the air cleaner, I noticed this little trap below it. Look how much dirt is in it.
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Your removing the motor and transmission right? Fastest way to do it.

Disconnect ih1,ih2 and PCM connectors inside and pull through and lay it on the engine.

It's a lot easier to remove the wiring when out if needed.

Pull the whole motor and Trans out in one piece.
 
Yes. I'm removing the motor and trans together per FSM. The FSM says to remove the glovebox door and speaker cover to get to the ECU for plug removal. Plastic parts always make me nervous to remove them on older cars since many times they become brittle and break.
 
One thing I've learned about Cruisers over the years is that if there are stubborn parts, stepping away from it for a day usually yields good results. About 20 minutes today and all the stubborn parts from yesterday came undone. The only thing that happened was the clip that holds the wire harness on the alternator broke. Banjo bolt to banjo came loose. Why is Toyota's Dexron II in the Power Steering system clear/brown and the replacement ATF Dexron is red? I always wondered about that.
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Then, this stubborn clip came apart.
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Was able to get the alternator plug out:
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But unfortunately the clip that holds the harness to the alternator broke. I wonder if there is a part# to this?
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Broke free the engine block ground bolt. A little hard to get to and find leverage.
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And then the 2nd Heated O2 Sensor plug came apart.
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I didn't mess with the speaker cover. I was told today I may not need to remove it for the ECM plugs. Will have to look into that at another time.
 

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