My Desmog Thread (6 Viewers)

[FJ40Jim]

if uncapping a vac port cause a significant increase in idle speed/quality, then the idle mix is too rich.

Manifold vacuum goes down w/ increasing altitude, so you may not see 18" there.

Base timing is best adjusted w/ vac hose disconnected & plugged.

Leave your dissy vac hoses in the stock locations at your altitude and w/ HAC still in use.

Sometimes busting open the PCV pipe is the only way to get it cleaned out, especially if you don't have a few days to let it soak in the bucket of methylene chloride.

Cheers!

 

[norsk]

if uncapping a vac port cause a significant increase in idle speed/quality, then the idle mix is too rich.

Manifold vacuum goes down w/ increasing altitude, so you may not see 18" there.

Base timing is best adjusted w/ vac hose disconnected & plugged.

Leave your dissy vac hoses in the stock locations at your altitude and w/ HAC still in use.

Sometimes busting open the PCV pipe is the only way to get it cleaned out, especially if you don't have a few days to let it soak in the bucket of methylene chloride.

Cheers!

thanks, that is great info. Engine feels a bit more preppy, but not great. Did a 89 mile trip today with no (HAM) gear (there is alot), so totally gear empty. Still got 11 mpg. Idles very smooth, starts right up, engine does well until an incline and them I need to downshift.

In progress is my second cylinder head, currently at the machine waiting for Toyota to deliver the last 2 value stem seals, but almost 2 weeks now. They come in packets of 10. So I am getting ready to replace the head, etc.

I would like to have the rocker arm check and fixed up, know any one that is good with rocker arms checkups I can send mine to?

Jim, do you have any sense of Trollhole's new carb and how it performs?

Planning on headers as well.

doug t

 

[Rocky_LC]

Quick Questions - DeSmog In Progress...

I have been following this thread - lot's of information to absorb.

I have an '85 2F (from an FJ-60) that I am in the process of desmogging, before I drop it into a '74 FJ-40.

I have a couple of questions:

1. I read that if I do the "greenwire mod", the fuel cut solenoid valve is no longer controllable by the emissions computer. I do a lot of coasting downhill (from 8000' to 2500') and it seems like the Fuel Cut would be a good thing.

I grabbed the emissions computer from the FJ-60. Is it worth trying to integrate it into the FJ-40?

Where is the "Speed Sensor"? What would I connect the computer "Speed Sensor" to? ANSWER: It's located on the back of the FJ-60 Transmission. I'll have to look for one on my '74 tranny, but..... It seems unlikely I will get one going.


2. Which is the "green-wire"? I've got a black, and a white with black stripe.

Here is a post (with picture) of how to do the "Green Wire Mod". The wire isn't green.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/300513-fuel-cut-off-help-w-pictures.html#post4690240

3. What is the nipple on the top of the carb, to the rear of the second blue vacuum hose - NEVER MIND - it is HAC



Thanks -

Rocky

Final Question:: Does anyone know of a way to search ONLY within a single thread? I want to look for stuff like this in this thread, but haven't figured out how to yet. Thanks

 

[fliphkd778]

Originally Posted by Trapper50cal View Post
I was told by Jim that the Primary advance on the dizzy is the one closer to the body of the diz cap and that the one further out was the secondary or "HAC" advance so the outer one goes to atmosphere or air cleaner and the inner one goes to carb.

Jim? Correct or incorrect.
Correct.

Unless the truck is still using HAC.

If this is all true, then the diagram is incorrect. Also, does anyone run the vtv in the advance line?

 

[FJ40Jim]

No, do not keep the VTV in the advance line. The VTV is erased in the diagram, but I see that somebody forgot to erase the VTV text.

The vac advancer is not cut and dry. The diagram shows the safe method which insures not too much advance.

The primary advance can be used if one of the following conditions are met:
- Dissy recurved & governor pin repaired & CR below 9:1
- operating above 5000'MSL without HAC.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Sorry if I misquoted you Jim, or if I oversimplified your advice

 

[Drofen]

Okay, here is what I think is my "DONE" desmog...I have replaced all the vacuum lines with CarrMcMaster Silicone lines & have replaced the VCV on the dizzy side.

This is an HAC delete set-up.

Take a look and tear it apart, anything look screwy?Everything should be tracable throughout the pix.

....and ....GO

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

By trapper50cal at 2009-02-24

any insights on correctness here? Greatly appriciated

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you for posting actual pictures. Trying to read those diagrams was killing me!!!!

 

[mountaineer]

Recap

OK, just looking for some quick advice. I have an 85 FJ60 with 200K+ miles. Smog pumped seized yesterday. Removed and gutted it today and would like to not buy a new one. For now, can I simply put the gutted smog pump back on and drive it? The vehicle never leaves the city limits and usually only drives short distances to and from work, 15 miles round trip. It is not a show truck nor do I off-road the vehicle. It is my driver when I need 4x4 in town. For now I don't plan on starting a big rebuild project. I'm wondering if I should just buy a new smog pump and install or use the gutted one. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[ny60]

smog pump

I think you can use your gutted smog pump but, from what I remember, your truck might run a little rough and your egr valve is gonna get gunked up eventually. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I got a rebuilt pump for $100 from cruiserparts.net and it has lasted many thousands of miles thus far. No issues and the stock 2f runs great.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you for posting actual pictures. Trying to read those diagrams was killing me!!!!

Keep in mind that those pix are only relevant to an HAC delete desmog.

 

[Drofen]

Keep in mind that those pix are only relevant to an HAC delete desmog.

Ok, I live in Texas at about 1000 foot elevation, where my cruiser will spend the vast, vast majority of its life. Will this setup work for me?

 

[Trapper50cal]

I think it will, but Jim may have to chime in on the subtle differences...from what I have read recently in this thread, you may have to set up the dizzy vacuum a bit differently and obviously, your timimg will be a bit different.

 

[mountaineer]

Doing it now

OK, I am installing the gutted smog pump in order to drive it to and from work during the icy, snowy weather. Will I be causing any damage. I have read the prior posts, and some say simply put it back on and go and obviously say you can do a lot more. Will it work or will it blow up? If you know something about this, please post as I am doing this right now.

85 FJ60 200K+ miles. Short distance driving only.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the truck can be operated indefinitely w/ a gutted smog pump. There might be a minor increase in efficiency due to the slight decrease in parasitic loss with no AP.

 

[fliphkd778]

I hope I didn't mess anything up, but since I had followed the desmog diagram a year ago I couldn't get my truck above 60mph without some major bucking and choking. I switched my advancer vacuum to get more advance it has been up to 85mph and better mpg. I did 70-75mph all the way from panama city to gainesville yesterday, but beware I do have a recurved dizzy. I didn't notice any knocking, so I guess I'll let it fly?

 

[Drofen]

Ok, I've started running my vacuum lines following Trapper50cal's pictures from post #277. However, I've run into some differences that I need help deciphering.

From Trapper50cal:

First, is the part indicated with a yellow arrow in the picture above the same part indicated with a yellow arrow in the picture below? Secondly, the part indicated with a pink arrow in the picture above is different on my 60--it has 3 ports instead of just one. I've attached a picture below. Thoughts on a work around?

Next, apparently the PO of my 60 just started randomly removing smog equipment. In Trapper50cal's picture below, I don't have the part indicated by a green arrow, or a place to hook a vacuum line at the second green arrow. What is this part called, and is the dealer the best place to find one?

Also, I don't have the part I've indicated with a blue arrow in Trapper50cal's picture below. What's it called and where can I get one?

Finally, what is the part indicated with a blue arrow below. It's not shown in Trapper50cal's pictures--do I need it?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Trapper50cal]

The 3 prong "gas" filter vacuum fitting on the intake is what should be there...use one prong and cap the rest. (I had accidentally thrown mine away and had to McGyver one) The vacuum line leading to the driverside inner fender well is the fuel decel cutoff i think and yes it's needed. The small plastic bit with many barbs coming off of it on the pass. side is a VCV (Vacuum control Valve).

The other items appear to be A/C based so I have no idea (Ingrid was born w/o any A/C stuff)

and of course, my understanding of these systems is FAR less than guru status, so if I have mischaracterized these items please...chime in

 

[Drofen]

The 3 prong "gas" filter vacuum fitting on the intake is what should be there...use one prong and cap the rest. (I had accidentally thrown mine away and had to McGyver one) The vacuum line leading to the driverside inner fender well is the fuel decel cutoff i think and yes it's needed. The small plastic bit with many barbs coming off of it on the pass. side is a VCV (Vacuum control Valve).

The other items appear to be A/C based so I have no idea (Ingrid was born w/o any A/C stuff)

Ok thanks.

Ok, the previous owner's attempt at desmogging has the lines from the A/C stuff plugged into the other two prongs on the "gas filter" fitting. However, I don't hold much faith in that as much of what was done is in direct conflict with JimC approved material.

 

[mountaineer]

Gutted and running.

Well the gutted pump is installed and the vehicle seems to run fine, oh and installed new belts. Took a quick ride to the market and all was well. Seemed to idle a bit high, but after it warmed up it was normal. Cold here. I think my ears were playing tricks on me cause every little sound in the engine seemed to be new, but since I wasn't listening so intently before my smog pump seized, I figure I should just run it and see. Tomorrow I will take it to work which means a three mile trip on the bypass at 65 mph and we will see how she runs. I plugged most all the hoses I had to remove to get the smog pump off so we will see. Wish me luck.

Jim C, thanks for the response. You will surely be getting other questions from me in the future. Eventually I would like to do some more work on the engine but not now.

Thanks.

And to all who post the pictures, thanks in advance. I'm sure it will all be helpful later.


85 FJ60 203K

 

[rckhound]

Is This Right?

Ok so I just got my 87 fj60 back together. After sending my carb and dissy back to Jim C. adding a MAF header and Jim C. Desmog while keeping the HAC. It is back together and running like crap (mostly the F*^%$^ headers

that aren't flat) I was wondering a couple of things. Did I get the Vacuum lines right? What should my timing be set at with the desmog. I tried to set it at factory and it won't stay running. Everything seems to have good vacuum, did all new silicone. Sorry its not very clean i did all off this below 20 degrees and in snow storms on peak 7 above 10,000 ft. needless to say my hands were so cold when I went to grab a beer from the fridge it felt warm to the touch. Anything helps.:beer