thank you sir. i'll be in touch soon!
My Desmog Thread (28 Viewers)
- Thread starter fowldarr
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where does the PCV hose go on the intake? I can get my rig to turn over but it idles really hard and only with the choke fully out then eventually dies
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i went down there found where i had to put the pcv and fabricated a part to attach it to, now my carb is spitting has this happened to anyone eles?
Spitting? Can you elaborate on the PCV issue? It shouldn't really have an issue on starting the vehicle. It keeps moisture and acidity from building up in the crankcase.
$100 ish, depending if you need parts.
Mine took 5 weeks. I bought a used one and sent it to him so I could still drive.
Mine took 3.5 months (carb and dist rebuild) but I told him I wasn't in a big hurry. He obviously believed me. 
Mine took 3.5 months (carb and dist rebuild) but I told him I wasn't in a big hurry. He obviously believed me.
Same time frame with mine (only I wasn't not in a hurry, we're down to one car in the meantime.) Still waiting on one more part from the dealer so I can put it all together.
Going to be worth it in the end though.
Hi all, I have an 84 fj60 that i'm thinking of desmoging. I've seen the idler pulley that replaces the smog pump, why would I need a pulley if i remove the pump? Why can't i just remove the belt and pump and have nothing there? My a/c doesn't work so i'm thinking of removing it is as well. What would be wrong with just having one belt to run the power steering and alternator? It seems like there would be less to break so less to maintain. Also I'm thinking about buying a used dizzy to rebuild. Does anyone know where to order the rebuild parts for the distributor?
Nevermind I just noticed the belt is running the fan... DOH!!
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As you noticed, on 2F's with PS, the only belt that runs the fan is the AP, so that belt has to stay in place. If the truck does not have PS, then the alt belt will also go around the fan, allowing the AP belt to be deleted.
The dissy doesn't need much in the way of rebuild parts, there's nothing to rebuild. If it needs a pickup or vac can, they're available aftermarket or dealer. The 2 o-rings are available from the dealer. do not take apart the shaft, as the bearings never fail, and pressing it apart will do more harm than good.
Thanks for the info Jim. I don't know what to do with my truck it runs horrible and has exhaust leaks(that fumigate the cabin. I recently replaced the carb with a rebuilt one hoping it would run better but it seems to be just as bad. I have to keep the choked pulled out to keep the thing running. There is no hose running from the exhaust near the cat. to the egr rail. Just a block off valve on the hole near the cat. and the hole on the egr rail left open. Does that mean its getting fresh air through the egr system instead of exausht gas or is it just a big vac leak? I'll pick up some heater hose tomorrow and reconnect it. If that doesn't help it to run better then its going to get the full desmog treatment and a new exhaust system.
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I think you're mixing up the AIR and EGR systems. The AIR system has a long tube going down to the exh pipe in front of cat, as well as the rail along the top of the head. Leaving the AIR holes open will be an underhood exhaust leak, but will have no effect on running.
If it only runs w/ choke out, there is too much air/not enough fuel.
Assuming carb is OK, look for improper desmog/hose routing, manifold gasket leak, bad brake booster, bad EGR, bad PCV...
If it only runs w/ choke out, there is too much air/not enough fuel.
Assuming carb is OK, look for improper desmog/hose routing, manifold gasket leak, bad brake booster, bad EGR, bad PCV...
good job! I half assed mine, justed got pissed about all the smog stuff and started ripping it out
Hello All,
First, thanks to everyone for the amazing info on here about this desmog stuff. JimC you are truly an invaluable resource and Trapper50 Your photos with the orange lines are great. I stayed up until 02:30 this morning redoing the the desmog the PO had done by a supposed FJ expert. His desmog looked nothing like these desmogs and the ac idle-up was removed and the fuel cutoff was removed without grounding the wire and several other things were not correct according to this thread. the cruiser ran but really sputtered and jerked sometimes. I removed and cleaned the carb and re did all the lines like Trapper50 (I think? I couldnt see a couple of lines so reread this thread several times and made an educated guess) and I re installed the AC idle -up and the fuel decel and a couple of other items.
First, thanks to everyone for the amazing info on here about this desmog stuff. JimC you are truly an invaluable resource and Trapper50 Your photos with the orange lines are great. I stayed up until 02:30 this morning redoing the the desmog the PO had done by a supposed FJ expert. His desmog looked nothing like these desmogs and the ac idle-up was removed and the fuel cutoff was removed without grounding the wire and several other things were not correct according to this thread. the cruiser ran but really sputtered and jerked sometimes. I removed and cleaned the carb and re did all the lines like Trapper50 (I think? I couldnt see a couple of lines so reread this thread several times and made an educated guess
) and I re installed the AC idle -up and the fuel decel and a couple of other items.Sorry I was not finished with the above post but accidentally hit the wrong button??????
Well after doing all this the cruiser runs better, a lot better. It seems to have more pedal power and seems to idle smoother and maybe sounds a little better.
I was jacked, I stayed up a long time just driving my 60 around enjoying the simplicity of it all.
BUT NOW, sometimes when I let off the gas it backfires, a lot, continuosly, usually just small sputters but occasionally it lets a real boomer go when I let off the gas an engage the clutch. I mean it sounds like danger close heavy guns.
So after all this typing can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
I would hate to add more to this really long thread (and post) but if I put up pics of my hoses sould some tell me if I went wrong or is there a more simple solution?
Thanks again and hate to have such long post but I am so close to a smooth running machine.
Well after doing all this the cruiser runs better, a lot better. It seems to have more pedal power and seems to idle smoother and maybe sounds a little better.
I was jacked, I stayed up a long time just driving my 60 around enjoying the simplicity of it all.
BUT NOW, sometimes when I let off the gas it backfires, a lot, continuosly, usually just small sputters but occasionally it lets a real boomer go when I let off the gas an engage the clutch. I mean it sounds like danger close heavy guns.
So after all this typing can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
I would hate to add more to this really long thread (and post) but if I put up pics of my hoses sould some tell me if I went wrong or is there a more simple solution?
Thanks again and hate to have such long post but I am so close to a smooth running machine.
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The coasting backfire should be eliminated by the coasting decel fuel cut system.
The other thing (besides fuel) needed for a healthy exhaust backfire is air. Make sure there is no leak in the exhaust system, like at the downpipe, heat riser shaft, egr fitting, etc.
The other thing (besides fuel) needed for a healthy exhaust backfire is air. Make sure there is no leak in the exhaust system, like at the downpipe, heat riser shaft, egr fitting, etc.
Thanks Jim, I know also I prob need a carb rebuild and a distr. rebuild and I want to send them to you sometime soon ( I pm'd you about it).
I will check for air leaks ln exhaust and egr block off and not sure about the heat riser shaft? I dont know where it is. I will tear into the engine fsm to learn about the heat riser shaft.
Could this air leak also be around the manifold gasket? And is there anyway to stop the backfire now by unplugging something???
Thanks
I will check for air leaks ln exhaust and egr block off and not sure about the heat riser shaft? I dont know where it is. I will tear into the engine fsm to learn about the heat riser shaft.
Could this air leak also be around the manifold gasket? And is there anyway to stop the backfire now by unplugging something???
Thanks
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Yes.
No.
Spent yesterday and today doing the desmog concerning vac tubes, etc.
Followed Trapper50cal layout from post #277, though I kept the HAC since I live at 5500 ft.
In the process, upon removing my air cleaner, I found "oil vomit" in and on the air filter, that didn't used to be there. I then traced down the PVC, which I have changed 10 months ago along with a new hose from PVC to the PCV tube. I proceeded to blow into the vacuum hose and it was plugged. I read Jim's posting that the PVC tube coming from the EGR/PCVplate, that goes into the Intake Manifold, can get plugged. Well mine did.
I spent 4 hours trying to clean that thing out. I asked one of my mechanics and he indicated cutting the tube in order to get closer to the plug, and then welding it back again - which I did and they did weld it back together. In the process, I went and had them grind the EGR pipe off and weld a plug (bolt) so that is now done. Was that the best way to clean that tube up? I did need the vehicle tomorrow morning so I had to get it back together today
On to the air pump, I just connected the intake to exhaust for now, until JimC finishes my dizzy and returns it and with the new idler pulley.
Question on dizzy timing. Does one do timing with or without the vacuum advance connected? At the moment I have the primarily connected to its carb tube and the HAC line connected to the secondary vac advance. I will leave that until I get JimC's dizzy mod back, then move the primary vac to the secondary advance and the HAC to the air cleaner vent.
After install the new vacuum tubing and the cleaned out PVC pipe, I started it up and it did START!!
I then did a vacuum check, one at the "gas filter" and got 12 inches. Then I did a check on the PCV to HIC valve 'T' and got 13. Mmmmm, I need to learn what that means. I understand 16 to 18 is the goal, but mine is in the "yellow" on the gauge. While I was disconnecting the tube from the HIC and connecting to the vac gauge, the engine's RPM sped up. It has been 30 years since I worked on my 1965 mustang and have forgotten what this means. I know it leans the air/fuel mixture, but don't remember if it is good or bad. I thought it should have gone down in RPM. Am I too rich in the carb?
Any pointers to where I could learn more on vacuum gauge metering and tuning would be appreciated?
Thanks
doug t
Followed Trapper50cal layout from post #277, though I kept the HAC since I live at 5500 ft.
In the process, upon removing my air cleaner, I found "oil vomit" in and on the air filter, that didn't used to be there. I then traced down the PVC, which I have changed 10 months ago along with a new hose from PVC to the PCV tube. I proceeded to blow into the vacuum hose and it was plugged. I read Jim's posting that the PVC tube coming from the EGR/PCVplate, that goes into the Intake Manifold, can get plugged. Well mine did.
I spent 4 hours trying to clean that thing out. I asked one of my mechanics and he indicated cutting the tube in order to get closer to the plug, and then welding it back again - which I did and they did weld it back together. In the process, I went and had them grind the EGR pipe off and weld a plug (bolt) so that is now done. Was that the best way to clean that tube up? I did need the vehicle tomorrow morning so I had to get it back together today
On to the air pump, I just connected the intake to exhaust for now, until JimC finishes my dizzy and returns it and with the new idler pulley.
Question on dizzy timing. Does one do timing with or without the vacuum advance connected? At the moment I have the primarily connected to its carb tube and the HAC line connected to the secondary vac advance. I will leave that until I get JimC's dizzy mod back, then move the primary vac to the secondary advance and the HAC to the air cleaner vent.
After install the new vacuum tubing and the cleaned out PVC pipe, I started it up and it did START!!
I then did a vacuum check, one at the "gas filter" and got 12 inches. Then I did a check on the PCV to HIC valve 'T' and got 13. Mmmmm, I need to learn what that means. I understand 16 to 18 is the goal, but mine is in the "yellow" on the gauge. While I was disconnecting the tube from the HIC and connecting to the vac gauge, the engine's RPM sped up. It has been 30 years since I worked on my 1965 mustang and have forgotten what this means. I know it leans the air/fuel mixture, but don't remember if it is good or bad. I thought it should have gone down in RPM. Am I too rich in the carb?
Any pointers to where I could learn more on vacuum gauge metering and tuning would be appreciated?
Thanks
doug t
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