this is a very inspiring thread. i'm about to turn to the dark side....
Me too I am taking a three day weekend to get started
My Desmog Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter fowldarr
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Me too I am taking a three day weekend to get started
Longs Canyon after Pucker Pass, Moab
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Search the FJ60 forum for a thread on that topic. IIRC it was godwin that did it w/ a Denso alternator.
Nice !
kevinmrowland did a setup like that on his 2F as well.
Started my desmog tonight. Got the air rail off, btw the back is easier to get to if you take the throttle linkage bracket off the firewall. Put in the plugs, removed the metal spaghetti, and smog equipment on the inner fender. Started running vacuum line, but the new stuff I got was the 1/8" stuff, not the 3 and 6mm stuff. (So much to keep up with, I knew I'd leave something out) Just have a couple of questions.
I plan to do the welded up EGR to keep the PCV mod. Any concerns there?
I don't have an idler pulley yet, would it be better to just leave the smog pump open, or cap it, or filter it? Can I run it closed loop if I put hoses between the two pipes?
The biggest confusion I had with the vacuum lines were the three hoses near the top of the carb. One goes to the choke opener, and the other 2 are plugged, right?
Rubber expansion plugs work for both the EGR cooler and the pipe coming from the exhaust (short term)?
By the way, this thread and the Jim C pics are awesome. I felt like I knew what I was doing when I went in.
I plan to do the welded up EGR to keep the PCV mod. Any concerns there?
I don't have an idler pulley yet, would it be better to just leave the smog pump open, or cap it, or filter it? Can I run it closed loop if I put hoses between the two pipes?
The biggest confusion I had with the vacuum lines were the three hoses near the top of the carb. One goes to the choke opener, and the other 2 are plugged, right?
Rubber expansion plugs work for both the EGR cooler and the pipe coming from the exhaust (short term)?
By the way, this thread and the Jim C pics are awesome. I felt like I knew what I was doing when I went in.
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Do check that the PCV pipe is clear. Occasionally they will be packed w/ cooked oil sludge to the point that no air can pass.
Looping sounds like the best method.
Yep.
I wouldn't count on it. Leave the EGR valve & cooler in place until you definitely have a way to deal w/ removing it permanently. If there is no vacuum to the EGR valve, then the EGR system is dead. The big reason for removing EGR is cosmetics. It looks better without all that non-functional hardware hanging off the manifolds.
HTH
Thanks Jim!
A clarification question on the EGR stuff. If I leave it all on the truck for the time being (I need to drive it tomorrow), I won't NEED to plug it, as the gases from the exhaust manifold through the cooler will not be an issue because the EGR valve needs vacuum to open. If that's the case, excellent!
Does anyone know what size chair/cane cap I need for the breather?
Thanks again!
A clarification question on the EGR stuff. If I leave it all on the truck for the time being (I need to drive it tomorrow), I won't NEED to plug it, as the gases from the exhaust manifold through the cooler will not be an issue because the EGR valve needs vacuum to open. If that's the case, excellent!
Does anyone know what size chair/cane cap I need for the breather?
Thanks again!
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Thank you Jim and thank you to everyone who submitted to this thread. I put the truck back together last night and took it for a drive. Wow! It has never been so strong and the flat spot between 2k and 3k is gone. Unbelievable. I've got a slight backfiring problem now (I usually coast downhill so it's not terrible). Ii; not too worried,as I have to put the new vacuum lines on when they come from McMaster. If the problem is still there after the hose replacement,I'll be back.
I did find that Advance had 7/64" vacuum line that worked much better than their 1/8" stuff. Thanks again!
I did find that Advance had 7/64" vacuum line that worked much better than their 1/8" stuff. Thanks again!
devane pump or use it as a supercharger
New cruiser owner. I used this thread to desmog my 82 FJ60 and have a question about the air pump. can I put a filter on the intake to the pump and route the output to the upper 26mm hose nipple on the aircleaner? I figure if I have the pump robbing HP as a pulley maybe I can get a little back thru forced induction. Pump is good with no noises. I also have all the stuff I pulled off if anybody needs it. I did a HAC delete with no A/C idle up. Also, I ran the manifold vacuum for the dissy VCV off the brake booster/ a/c idle up connection as it is unused and plugged the gas filter port as the nipple was broken . Is this ok?
New cruiser owner. I used this thread to desmog my 82 FJ60 and have a question about the air pump. can I put a filter on the intake to the pump and route the output to the upper 26mm hose nipple on the aircleaner? I figure if I have the pump robbing HP as a pulley maybe I can get a little back thru forced induction. Pump is good with no noises. I also have all the stuff I pulled off if anybody needs it. I did a HAC delete with no A/C idle up. Also, I ran the manifold vacuum for the dissy VCV off the brake booster/ a/c idle up connection as it is unused and plugged the gas filter port as the nipple was broken . Is this ok?
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Good idea. But it doesn't help to blow air into the air cleaner, since the filter element is so large & unrestrictive. the worst restriction in the stock aircleaner is right on top of the carb. Increase the CSA there and there should be some improvement at WOT.
It's OK to pull vacuum off the AC idle nipple.
It's OK to pull vacuum off the AC idle nipple.
Thank you,
That makes sense. I was thinking of the pump as more of a compressor than just a means to push air.
On a side note, how important is the butterfly/heat riser in the exhaust manifold. Mine leaks thru the bushings and I was contemplating removing the assembly and welding the holes shut. I noticed the earlier manifolds do not have it. are they compatible with the later 2f motors?
this thread has been invaluable in tuning this truck. It is amazing how much more power there is and how much smoother it idles. I can't wait to see what kind of MPG gains I get.
That makes sense. I was thinking of the pump as more of a compressor than just a means to push air.
On a side note, how important is the butterfly/heat riser in the exhaust manifold. Mine leaks thru the bushings and I was contemplating removing the assembly and welding the holes shut. I noticed the earlier manifolds do not have it. are they compatible with the later 2f motors?
this thread has been invaluable in tuning this truck. It is amazing how much more power there is and how much smoother it idles. I can't wait to see what kind of MPG gains I get.
I apologize if this has already been covered but I am unsure about what to set my timing at without a dizzy re-curve. My truck is experiencing the infamous pinging and I cant get it to stop. Not at idle only during acceleration.
This is where I started to get lost.Why?
Wouldn't 15* base, plus 24* cent, plus 18* vac give 57* w/ all in?
Is 57* about 15-20 past optimum?
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Does anyone foresee any problems with taking the vanes AND the fins out of the smog pump? Basically, I just need it to act as a pulley and the little cup spinning inside the smog pump seems like it'd be fine. Also, should I just cap the 2 hard lines coming out of the back of the smog pump?
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All 2F manifolds were equipped w/ the heat riser butterfly. Some years do not have the big counterweight and are not open at the rear bushing, so they are hard to see.
The flapper serves to direct the hot exhaust gas away from the bottom of the intake. Best fix is to cut off the counterweight/spring end of the shaft, then rotate the butterfly to the "hot" position, and weld both ends of the shaft in place. This will prevent sticking in the "cold" position (the cause of intake manifold cracking), and stop the persistent leakage out the ends of the shaft.
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Set it wherever it needs to be to not ping.
Start at stock (7*). If it pings under load at 2000rpm, then start retarding in 4* increments until it quits.
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Remove as much guts as possible. The vanes, the leaf springs and lip seals in the slots of the rotor.
The lines don't need to be capped, but if it makes you feel better, then go right ahead.
I like to remove the hose barbs entirely. Remove the retaining screw, then yank them out.
I think that is ideally what you want, just a hunk of metal left with good bearings and cap the holes so as to not provide a spot for water to get in. Remove any parts that don't need to be there for the spinning of the shaft. Maybe drill a drain hole just in case water does get in.
That's a good idea actually. Thanks for the advice guys.
