Builds My Costa Rican BJ40 search begins
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #422
You too man. How is towing that scamp with your 40. The wife thinks we need one.
That seems to be a standard response from the wives when they see it haaha!!! The Scamp tows great behind a 40, even with a stock F engine. My 3FE 40 yanks it down the road no problem. It's fiberglass, so it's light weight which makes it all possible. Only weighs 920 lbs dry. They still make them new, but if you can find a good used one, I'd snatch it up. Mine is a 13 footer which is the smallest they make.
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- #424
Well... I'm a idiot. The hole in the oil pan was a result of my modified oil dip stick. The hole is right where it hits the pan. Everything else looked good. I should have done a better job of rounding the edges. I'm guessing when I checked the oil before leaving roundup I stabbed it in and that was the end of that.
No foreign objects in the pan so that was good.
You can see where the dip stick measures the level in the cone shaped hole. That's where the pin hole is.
Nothing looked odd with my amateur inspection of the bottom end. You can also see the pointy s***ty dip stick I made.
No foreign objects in the pan so that was good.
You can see where the dip stick measures the level in the cone shaped hole. That's where the pin hole is.
Nothing looked odd with my amateur inspection of the bottom end. You can also see the pointy s***ty dip stick I made.
ahhh crap!!!
- Thread starter
- #426
Pan fixed. I brought it work to have it tig welded. I'm doing an overnight leak test with some old oil before I install it.
I also had to weld up the alternator tension bracket. I believe it has been rewelded at least four times. Round up did a number on it.
It was also a good time to add a "W" wire to my NPR alternator to run my DD tach while the truck is down.
Should be back up and running this weekend.
It was also a good time to add a "W" wire to my NPR alternator to run my DD tach while the truck is down.
Should be back up and running this weekend.
Well glad it wasn't a huge catastrophe Cim. Glad you got it figured it. Did you get an extra pan too? 
- Thread starter
- #428
Yup. I also have another alt bracket coming along with injectors and a few other parts. Injectors will get dropped off for servicing next week.Well glad it wasn't a huge catastrophe Cim. Glad you got it figured it. Did you get an extra pan too?
- Thread starter
- #429
Back in business! Put the pan back on along with alternator and fired it up. Everything sounded like it should. I also got a proper B engine oil dip stick.
The oil pan gasket I pulled off was in great shape. It was oil soaked but I had no leaks. However I used a new OEM one from my engine gasket kit to put the pan back on.
In this photo you will notice the difference between the proper dip stick end and the modified one I made.
Alternator back in but I still need to setup tach. All the wiring is done. I used some different wire loom stuff I noticed on @davegonz truck that I really liked. It's much better than the plastic crap. I will start using it now on all electrical modifications in the future.
The oil pan gasket I pulled off was in great shape. It was oil soaked but I had no leaks. However I used a new OEM one from my engine gasket kit to put the pan back on.
In this photo you will notice the difference between the proper dip stick end and the modified one I made.
Alternator back in but I still need to setup tach. All the wiring is done. I used some different wire loom stuff I noticed on @davegonz truck that I really liked. It's much better than the plastic crap. I will start using it now on all electrical modifications in the future.
Solid Cimarron. 
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- #431
The tach is now functional. Installed the Dakota Digital DSL-1E diesel tach interface which uses either alternator, which I am using, or a flywheel pickup. You do not have to have the DD gauge cluster to use the DSL-1E. I am using the older version on my 80 to send signal to my OEM cluster. It was real easy to calibrate using the Tiny Tach. On my 80 I had to use math skills to figure it out which involved tranny and diff gears and a set speed as I didn't have the Tiny Tach to use.
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- #432
I just picked up my spare injectors from the shop. All were completely rebuilt. They look so pretty now.
- Thread starter
- #433
A few things came up while installing injectors. Honestly I didn't do much research on the topic prior to pulling the old to replace with the rebuild ones. Once I pulled the old I relized that the supplied washers were not the same thickness as what came out. Also new nozzle seats were listed in the FSM. Only two of the injectors that came out had seats so that tells me they had been out for some reason before. I went to dig out my engine gasket kit and found some seats but only found three of the four. My home office is a disaster as the moment so finding the one that fell out of the bag at some point in he past year is impossible. I ended up reusing one nozzle seat and all four copper/brass washers.
I didn't purge and try to start yet because I need install radiator. I had it out to get a small leak fixed. I also bought an all aluminum aftermarket radiator, arriving Monday, in case the original springs another leak. Still debating which one to reinstall. It's to the point of I really don't know how the original holds coolant but it does its job of cooling. It's got all kinds of Costa Rican patch jobs all over it. Anyway I think I need to find new washers and another nozzle seat or it's going to bug the hell out of me.
Since I had the radiator out and pulled the bottom plate I noticed some cracks in it. I had my fellow co worker weld up them up. I love that he leaves his TIG welder as work.
The photos are pre sanding and paint. I didn't get a photo of where I sanded it before painting but has some pitting on the front section but should hold up well for years to come. Once I got has much of the rust dust off I sprayed with rust reformer. I don't know if the stuff works but it got the propane guys off my back when I used it to get rid of a rust spot on my propane tank for the house.
I didn't purge and try to start yet because I need install radiator. I had it out to get a small leak fixed. I also bought an all aluminum aftermarket radiator, arriving Monday, in case the original springs another leak. Still debating which one to reinstall. It's to the point of I really don't know how the original holds coolant but it does its job of cooling. It's got all kinds of Costa Rican patch jobs all over it. Anyway I think I need to find new washers and another nozzle seat or it's going to bug the hell out of me.
Since I had the radiator out and pulled the bottom plate I noticed some cracks in it. I had my fellow co worker weld up them up. I love that he leaves his TIG welder as work.
The photos are pre sanding and paint. I didn't get a photo of where I sanded it before painting but has some pitting on the front section but should hold up well for years to come. Once I got has much of the rust dust off I sprayed with rust reformer. I don't know if the stuff works but it got the propane guys off my back when I used it to get rid of a rust spot on my propane tank for the house.
- Thread starter
- #434
Radiator prior to going to shop. Surprisingly the only leak the shop found was from the drain which was soldered shut.
E
- Thread starter
- #435
All kinds of good and bad today.
The good
-It fired right up with one injector line cracked open. I opened up each one for a few seconds while it was running to bleed air out. Everything sounded great and didn't vibrate as much as before. I was surprised it started that easy. Had a slight leak on the 1st injector but after I shut it down and restarted it went away. I'll have to keep an eye on it. This was the one I reused a nozzle seat on.
-Installed old radiator that was fixed and it didn't leak. It just won't die.
The bad
-The all aluminum radiator I bought didn't fit for my liking. The second bolt I tried to install took some leverage to install. That was the end of that. Wasn't going any further with it. It also didn't use a stock radiator cap so it will be returned.
-I now have a bunk primer plunger. I attempted to prime it before starting and it got stuck out after unscrewing it. In order to screw it back down I had to remove it from the pump using a cut down 19mm wrench. Need to find the Bosch replacement now. It leaked anyway.
Pretty but it just didn't work
New tool to add to the travel bag. It also needed a shave down to fit at the base of the plunger
The good
-It fired right up with one injector line cracked open. I opened up each one for a few seconds while it was running to bleed air out. Everything sounded great and didn't vibrate as much as before. I was surprised it started that easy. Had a slight leak on the 1st injector but after I shut it down and restarted it went away. I'll have to keep an eye on it. This was the one I reused a nozzle seat on.
-Installed old radiator that was fixed and it didn't leak. It just won't die.
The bad
-The all aluminum radiator I bought didn't fit for my liking. The second bolt I tried to install took some leverage to install. That was the end of that. Wasn't going any further with it. It also didn't use a stock radiator cap so it will be returned.
-I now have a bunk primer plunger. I attempted to prime it before starting and it got stuck out after unscrewing it. In order to screw it back down I had to remove it from the pump using a cut down 19mm wrench. Need to find the Bosch replacement now. It leaked anyway.
Pretty but it just didn't work
New tool to add to the travel bag. It also needed a shave down to fit at the base of the plunger
- Thread starter
- #436
Took the 40 to work today. No leaks at the injectors but the stupid primer pump is still leaking. Ordered a new Bosch unit off Amazon for $18. The Cummins in my 80 had the same problem which I replaced the lift pump/primer this evening. Not as cheap. Since the Cummins is a "B" engine as well I have started to call it "Big B" and the BJ is "Lil' B" as people I talk with are alway asking which one I am taking about.
ERNRAM
SILVER Star
You have a link to the primer pump you bought for it?
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- #438
This is the part number I found 2447222126. This is what I ordered. It doesn't look like it is Bosch branded but all the info I found said it didn't matter. There were some cheap $7 ones selling a few years back and no one seemed to have issues with them.
Amazon.com: NEW OEM DIESEL FEED HAND PRIMER PUMP FITS MERCEDES 240D 2447222126 2-447-010-033: Automotive
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
It has the Bosch logo stamped on it.
Rudi
Rudi
- Thread starter
- #440
I swapped primer pumps this weekend. The Bosch unit came with a 244722125 part number on it but threaded right in. No more leaking while priming.
