My average is 11.3 mpg in town, always (1 Viewer)

[CloudCity]

Yes, another MPG thread. Skip if you're bored with these.
The difference is mine gets very low fuel economy but is almost completely stock. I only have Dueler AT's in original size and nothing else, no aftermarket roof rack, no lift, I have played with tire pressures and am now at 32-front and 35-rear. Just cleaned the MAF last week, was dirty but didn't seem to make a difference. I do almost entirely city driving but the average is still low. Air filter is spotless. Throttle body has been dealer cleaned. Any suggestions on what to look for? Maybe there's an anchor hanging off the back I overlooked but aside from that I'm not sure what else to consider. (I just checked, there was an anchor but I removed it, tested, still getting same MPG.) This covers most of the things stated in other threads I've found. Only other thing is type of gear oil, I believe its running whatever spec was factory original so most likely non-synthetic, but then rigs back when these were new would have gotten low MPG also, so this doesn't seem very likely to me. I do almost always have the HVAC running, could this alone cause low mpg? This is all going by the "info screen" estimate btw, so could that be a potential issue, it's just not accurate? I'm not looking for miracles but I'd be ecstatic to get even 13mpg in town. I get 16.+ on freeway over distance.

 

[morganism]

Try disconnecting your O2 sensors for a week.

You should do a "readiness monitor drive pattern" for your vehicle to reset the computer if you do that.

http://justsmogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

 

[planomateo]

Outta curiosity, what are you using to calculate your mpg? I use an app on my phone, log every fill up. Wife has an 04 LX with 180k and she gets 12-13 mpg around town.

How old are you spark plugs? I don't see you mentioning those above. Are your ignition coils in good shape?

 

[JayM]

Don't rule out the quality of the fuel in your area. They keep adding ethanol % to fuel sources to boost octane rating. If you have a local Grange type store that sell ethanol free fuel try that for a tank full and you will get improved mileage. Rule out the fuel before you start replacing stuff. And yes, even top tier fuels are starting to add more ethanol these days.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I don't know about disconnecting the o2 sensors, that's not mentioned anywhere I could see in your Toyota doc. Seems like you could run the risk of the fuel mix being off and dumping gas into the cats and destroying them.

 

[CloudCity]

Outta curiosity, what are you using to calculate your mpg? I use an app on my phone, log every fill up. Wife has an 04 LX with 180k and she gets 12-13 mpg around town.

How old are you spark plugs? I don't see you mentioning those above. Are your ignition coils in good shape?

I am literally just going by the vehicle's computer. What app, I'm more than willing to try something more accurate. Spark plugs and coils are one thing I have not inspected yet and I will go check the PO's invoices to see when that was done last. How long between intervals?
EDIT: I see spark plugs were done at 180,000 miles, or 69,000 miles ago so that could be a part of it.

Don't rule out the quality of the fuel in your area. They keep adding ethanol % to fuel sources to boost octane rating. If you have a local Grange type store that sell ethanol free fuel try that for a tank full and you will get improved mileage. Rule out the fuel before you start replacing stuff. And yes, even top tier fuels are starting to add more ethanol these days.

I do have access to ethanol free (costs $1 more per gallon here) as that's the only fuel I ever put in my '62 Benz, it will be a costly test but maybe worth doing. I will say that even if the fuel economy increased it would have to be substantial to offset the extra cost. Hadn't even considered this one, thanks.

I don't know about disconnecting the o2 sensors, that's not mentioned anywhere I could see in your Toyota doc. Seems like you could run the risk of the fuel mix being off and dumping gas into the cats and destroying them.

Sorry, if you mean I disconnected mine that was somebody else on a different thread. Mine are connected. EDIT: I missed the post above suggesting I do that, but I don't think that's something I'm willing to try at present.

I was driving around earlier and trying to figure this out and one thing that occurred to me is Portland has recently instituted a "20 is Plenty" speed limit for most city streets so I find myself virtually crawling all over town. I've only had the rig a bit over three months and primarily city driving, could this alone account for the MPG?

 

[KershZ71]

Fill up your tank full and reset your trip odometer. The next time you get gas, fill your tank full again. Divide the number of miles driven by the number of gallons. I do this every time I fill up and my number always differs from what the car says.

 

[CloudCity]

Fill up your tank full and reset your trip odometer. The next time you get gas, fill your tank full again. Divide the number of miles driven by the number of gallons. I do this every time I fill up and my number always differs from what the car says.

I keep my fuel receipts so I will do this over the weekend or next week when fillip is due. How much of a difference did you note between the two?

 

[planomateo]

I use the Fuelly/aCar app on Andriod.

 

[Higgin]

I keep my fuel receipts so I will do this over the weekend or next week when fillip is due. How much of a difference did you note between the two?

I find that when I do all highway driving or a good mix of city/highway driving over a whole tank of fuel, the onboard MPG computer is fairly accurate. But, if I do pretty much all city driving, the on board computer usually says I only average 10.2-10.5, but when I do the manual calculation of miles divided by gallons when I fill up my tank, I usually come out at around 13 MPG (using Premium - see below). I have a feeling it has to do with the way the computer averages out the MPG calculations.

Not sure if the pre-06 models are the same, but on my 06 LX, it says Premium gas (91 octane or better) is recommended for full performance, but down to 87 octane can be used. For me, around town, it seems to make a pretty large difference in MPG going from regular 87 to premium (91 or 93 octane depending on station). The times I have tried 87 octane in city driving, my mpg dropped to 11-11.5. So like a 15% drop. I've tried it several times and its been pretty consistent. On the highway, it seems MPGs are just a little lower with regualr, but not by as much. Usually 5% difference or less. I assume when using regular gas and under heavy loads such as accelerating around town, that it probably has to use a richer fuel mixture to eliminate engine knock that wouldn't be present if using premium fuel. But this is just purely speculation on my part. I pretty much only use premium now, but mostly because I have somewhat of a lead foot

 

[Pyrenees]

I don't really ever trust the MPG info from the car's computer (in any car). Just do the top-off and divide method mentioned above for real accuracy.

I am dismayed to hear that the top tier fuels are adding more ethanol. Isn't 10% the limit? Or maybe that's an NC thing? I usually try to take it to BP when I can, but I don't know who sells better gas frankly.

 

[gungriffin]

I have found my trip computers in multiple vehicles to be off by as much as 14%. This is especially true as the ethanol content goes higher, but I use tanks with up to a 66/34 gas to e85 ratio in my tuned turbo vehicles. That is usually when I find the numbers to be off by 14%. When using 100% gas (potentially up to E15), I find the number closer to 5-9% with city driving. With highway driving sometimes the computer can read low. I use an app called Simply Auto for Android to track fuel mileage over time. It also allows you to track your maintenance.

 

[Spike555]

As long as you have E-rated tires you can run those up to 50psi, that's where I have mine.
This will help mpg some.
Go to the App Store and find any mpg app you want and use it.

I use MilageKeeper, it is literally fill in the blank and it does all the work including giving you a "lifetime" average.

But you wanna know what? I'm happier not knowing my mpg. I drive it and get whatever I get. Half a tank gets me back and forth to work for the week.
I only use TopTier fuel.
My mpg is better when I use BP vs Costco, but BP costs $10 more per tank so I only use it when I have rewards points to cash in.

 

[JayM]

Costco typically uses a base fuel that is sub par and requires more ethanol to bring it within minimum octane standards. This is why it is cheaper per gallon. Ethanol is very cheap so it keeps cost of fuel down . Arco has been at this practice for years.

 

[saucebox]

I am dismayed to hear that the top tier fuels are adding more ethanol. Isn't 10% the limit? Or maybe that's an NC thing? I usually try to take it to BP when I can, but I don't know who sells better gas frankly.

It appears we're headed to 15%. The best sources are always behind paywalls, but here's a short primer: Trump to lift ban on higher-ethanol gasoline ahead of November elections

Like @Spike555 I just use an app (I don't walk to work, why should I calculate that manually?). I like Road Trip (Road Trip for iPhone and iPad - darrensoft.ca), because it has mileage-based reminders for stuff like oil changes and tire rotations, and you can program other service intervals in there.

 

[Spike555]

Costco typically uses a base fuel that is sub par and requires more ethanol to bring it within minimum octane standards. This is why it is cheaper per gallon. Ethanol is very cheap so it keeps cost of fuel down . Arco has been at this practice for years.

Sam's Club might do that but Costco does not. Costco is a TopTier fuel and the law says you cannot use more than 10% ethanol unless the pump is marked otherwise.

 

[Spike555]

Like @Spike555 I just use an app (I don't walk to work, why should I calculate that manually?). I like Road Trip (Road Trip for iPhone and iPad - darrensoft.ca), because it has mileage-based reminders for stuff like oil changes and tire rotations, and you can program other service intervals in there.

I don't understand your statement, I also used an app, MilageKeeper, it is fill in the blank and it tells you your mpg including your lifetime average.

I do not need anything to remind me about oil changes other than the odometer. Tire rotations are a waste ot time and money and I use the odometer for other service reminders too.

It's easy, a "5" or a "0" third from the left and it's time for a oil change.

Every 50k all driveline fluids. That means everytime the odometer says x50,xxx miles those things get done.

Tune ups are every 100k, that means whenever the odometer reads 100,000, 200,000, 300,000...you get the idea.

Engine coolant is every two years, 2016...2018...2020...easy. None of this has to be exact. Just close enough. Been doing it this way for hundreds of years and never an issue.

But if an app works for you great. You use what works for you. It's all good bro.

 

[JayM]

Sam's Club might do that but Costco does not. Costco is a TopTier fuel and the law says you cannot use more than 10% ethanol unless the pump is marked otherwise.

Hey Spike just wanted to say not poking at you with this post. Your comment brings up some good info.

Costco puts their fuel contract out for bid. The only thing Costco about it is there name. The type of fuel they sell comes from the lowest bidder at the time of the contract. Depending on where you live the base stock will be different, as well as, the supplier. Several top tier companies get their base stock from the same pipe.

As for trusting what the pump says on the 10%... that would be ethanol injected into the load at the time of loading on the transport truck. The base stock may very well have been adjusted to meet octane ratings. The only thing that makes fuel top tier is the additive package injected at the time of loading on the truck. A non top tier fuel can be loaded at the same depot on the next truck and the only difference is they don't inject the same additives like Techron for instance. Reduction in mileage is a great indication of the quality of fuel you are putting in your vehicle. Our series vehicles were not designed to run an ethanol mixed fuel and it has an impact on more than mileage . The results speak for themselves run a load out of Costco and then run an ethanol free tank full and the results are quite noticeable. Top tier is just a higher level of additives, that in my opinion, neither increase MPG or performance.

Only reason I brought this up was because the OP is scratching his head about mileage and getting ready start replacing stuff. We can't even trust what's in a can of seltzer water lately and the fuel industry wants me to believe that what it says on the pump is what I get? Don't bet on it. We are talking millions of gallons of fuel and the evidence is burned up before anyone would be the wiser $$$

 

[saucebox]

Oof, easy man. Rephrased: I also use an app. Like Spike does. My app does some different stuff also that Spike has no need for.

It's all good!

 

[Roosevelt T]

I don't understand your statement, I also used an app, MilageKeeper, it is fill in the blank and it tells you your mpg including your lifetime average.

I do not need anything to remind me about oil changes other than the odometer. Tire rotations are a waste ot time and money and I use the odometer for other service reminders too.

It's easy, a "5" or a "0" third from the left and it's time for a oil change.

Every 50k all driveline fluids. That means everytime the odometer says x50,xxx miles those things get done.

Tune ups are every 100k, that means whenever the odometer reads 100,000, 200,000, 300,000...you get the idea.

Engine coolant is every two years, 2016...2018...2020...easy. None of this has to be exact. Just close enough. Been doing it this way for hundreds of years and never an issue.

But if an app works for you great. You use what works for you. It's all good bro.

I know this is off topic, but in your opinion why are tire rotations a waste of time and money?