- Thread starter
- #41
Ha! I'm just now realizing the starion is rwd so you wouldn't use an ax15 which is for 4x4. You would want to use an r154 or similar. T56 is a great choice that can hold more power but is also more expensive.
Builds My 97 LC 2JZ manual swap build thread (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Peréz (@toyobishi) • Instagram photos and videos
2,474 Followers, 2,241 Following, 8,791 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Peréz (@toyobishi)
www.instagram.com
Can you provide additional details on your Bosch ibooster setup? Is it a gen 1? share your adapter plate drawings? master cylinder adapter plate? I see you changed it out at a later date to a Hydroboost? What did you like/dislike about the ibooster?
- Thread starter
- #45
It was a Gen 1 unit from a CRV. I got a gen 2 unit at first but did not think it would fit right with my setup since its a little larger and round.
I may have the adapter plate I made somewhere around here, hopefully I didn't toss it with the I-booster can't remember.
The gen 1 ibooster from the CRV just did not put out enough pressure fast enough, if you really jammed the brakes hard and went the full travel it would bring the car to a stop but not confidently or easily locking up the wheels, it would just barely lock up if you hit it really quick all the way to the floor.
With the stock brakes it was much better and would lock up much more easily, with the hydroboost its night and day it has all the stopping power back and some more now, can easily lock up the 35's.
So I had to conclude for whatever reason in fail safe mode that crv gen 1 unit was not putting out enough pressure, I tried 4 different master cylinders including the wilwood one I am using now on the hydroboost on it and even the stock 80 unit. I have only read one success story on the internet about a gen 1 ibooster unit working on a toyota and it was a tesla unit so maybe there are programming differences with regards to fail safe mode, cant say for sure but I got tired of it not working and installed hydroboost. I didn't want to gamble on if the tesla gen 1 is actually different or that one guy who posted doesn't know what good brakes feels like.
There are lots of success stories with the gen 2 unit though, so if you have the space like with the stock engine or a v8 setup, you could look into that route.
I was restricted on space to the intake manifold or I would have used the gen 2 unit from the beginning, they are also known to be more reliable.
I haven't updated in a while, been busy with other stuff but I decided now that everything is working well to switch from the AEM standalone to the 97 USDM Supra Turbo Ecu I have been hoarding for a while now, had to install the maf and extra o2 sensors, some other small wiring changes like installing a flexalite fan controller and the supra fuel ecu in place of the 80 cor for the fuel pump... but it was worth it cause it runs like factory now!!
The bonus is now my obd2 port works like factory and I can see what the ecu is up to via a scan tool.
Not sure if all of these monitors are going to complete yet, need to drive it around some now and see what happens.
I may have the adapter plate I made somewhere around here, hopefully I didn't toss it with the I-booster can't remember.
The gen 1 ibooster from the CRV just did not put out enough pressure fast enough, if you really jammed the brakes hard and went the full travel it would bring the car to a stop but not confidently or easily locking up the wheels, it would just barely lock up if you hit it really quick all the way to the floor.
With the stock brakes it was much better and would lock up much more easily, with the hydroboost its night and day it has all the stopping power back and some more now, can easily lock up the 35's.
So I had to conclude for whatever reason in fail safe mode that crv gen 1 unit was not putting out enough pressure, I tried 4 different master cylinders including the wilwood one I am using now on the hydroboost on it and even the stock 80 unit. I have only read one success story on the internet about a gen 1 ibooster unit working on a toyota and it was a tesla unit so maybe there are programming differences with regards to fail safe mode, cant say for sure but I got tired of it not working and installed hydroboost. I didn't want to gamble on if the tesla gen 1 is actually different or that one guy who posted doesn't know what good brakes feels like.
There are lots of success stories with the gen 2 unit though, so if you have the space like with the stock engine or a v8 setup, you could look into that route.
I was restricted on space to the intake manifold or I would have used the gen 2 unit from the beginning, they are also known to be more reliable.
I haven't updated in a while, been busy with other stuff but I decided now that everything is working well to switch from the AEM standalone to the 97 USDM Supra Turbo Ecu I have been hoarding for a while now, had to install the maf and extra o2 sensors, some other small wiring changes like installing a flexalite fan controller and the supra fuel ecu in place of the 80 cor for the fuel pump... but it was worth it cause it runs like factory now!!
The bonus is now my obd2 port works like factory and I can see what the ecu is up to via a scan tool.
Not sure if all of these monitors are going to complete yet, need to drive it around some now and see what happens.
Last edited:
