pistonpete
SILVER Star
Kool! 
My 78 FJ40 Project - HD
- Thread starter SliderJack
- Start date
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Awesome. Can't wait to see it finished. Mine started out as a budget build too. Yeah, that didn't happen.
ElHefe
SILVER Star
SliderJack said:
Wow! That's almost too pretty!
- Thread starter
- #24
Engine Hoist
Thanks!
If you’re like me, you spend most of the time working by yourself. Another most excellent craigslist find was an engine hoist. Probably the best $85 I spent. I’m always using it to lift the frame, move out to the driveway to work, pick up the body etc. I’ve definitely got my money’s worth out of it.
Thanks!
If you’re like me, you spend most of the time working by yourself. Another most excellent craigslist find was an engine hoist. Probably the best $85 I spent. I’m always using it to lift the frame, move out to the driveway to work, pick up the body etc. I’ve definitely got my money’s worth out of it.
- Thread starter
- #25
The PO said he did a brake job on the rear. That meant new pads, springs and retainers but the wheel cylinders look pretty much frozen to me. I decided to convert to disc instead and ordered some brackets and machined discs from Poser.
I cut out some tabs and welded them to the rear axle. I decided to mount things a little different than what I’ve seen and mounted the brackets pointing rewards and the tabs inside of the u-bolts for the springs. This let me use the brackets as what seemed as intended so the calipers didn’t have to be ground on and while the brake lines make a fairly sharp turn, I’ll add a little extra protection to them where they rest on the axle.
I cut out some tabs and welded them to the rear axle. I decided to mount things a little different than what I’ve seen and mounted the brackets pointing rewards and the tabs inside of the u-bolts for the springs. This let me use the brackets as what seemed as intended so the calipers didn’t have to be ground on and while the brake lines make a fairly sharp turn, I’ll add a little extra protection to them where they rest on the axle.
- Thread starter
- #26
Tires
Oh man, I’ve wanted some BFG for a long time. I’ve had a hard time justifying $1,200 to $1,500 set of TKO for my cruiser but I wanted some serious meats for the 40.
I loved the tread pattern of the old muds but decided to go ahead and order a set of KM2s from tirerack.com. I waited until BFG offered a $50 rebate and got a pretty good deal on 4 shipped.
I always liked the wide look so I went with a used set of wheels from a fellow mudder, 15” x 10” and 33 x 12.5” BFGs. The tires alone are 6” taller than what the truck came with. That’s 3” of lift right there.
Oh man, I’ve wanted some BFG for a long time. I’ve had a hard time justifying $1,200 to $1,500 set of TKO for my cruiser but I wanted some serious meats for the 40.
I loved the tread pattern of the old muds but decided to go ahead and order a set of KM2s from tirerack.com. I waited until BFG offered a $50 rebate and got a pretty good deal on 4 shipped.
I always liked the wide look so I went with a used set of wheels from a fellow mudder, 15” x 10” and 33 x 12.5” BFGs. The tires alone are 6” taller than what the truck came with. That’s 3” of lift right there.
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- Thread starter
- #27
Leaf Springs
Last summer my wife wanted to go to Mississippi to visit her favorite football player. I didn’t mind the trip so much since HellCreek suspension was pretty much along the way. I stopped and picked up a new set of 2.5” lift springs and bushings.
Like most things I read and read about lifts, which to buy, what height to get. I wanted the truck up a little but not too high. In the end I’m really glad I went with the 2.5. Combined with the tires, I wouldn’t want the truck any higher.
I primered the springs with Mastercoat silver and painted them with a spray can of Rustoleum Satin Black. I just figured the spray would be a lighter coat and much easier to apply. I didn’t want to gum up the leaves with a thick coat of paint. It will be interesting to compare how the Traktor Coat and the rustoleum wear. (There’s that engine hoist again)
Last summer my wife wanted to go to Mississippi to visit her favorite football player. I didn’t mind the trip so much since HellCreek suspension was pretty much along the way. I stopped and picked up a new set of 2.5” lift springs and bushings.
Like most things I read and read about lifts, which to buy, what height to get. I wanted the truck up a little but not too high. In the end I’m really glad I went with the 2.5. Combined with the tires, I wouldn’t want the truck any higher.
I primered the springs with Mastercoat silver and painted them with a spray can of Rustoleum Satin Black. I just figured the spray would be a lighter coat and much easier to apply. I didn’t want to gum up the leaves with a thick coat of paint. It will be interesting to compare how the Traktor Coat and the rustoleum wear. (There’s that engine hoist again)
- Thread starter
- #28
Top Coat
Well, I hate to admit it, but here’s a huge bone-headed mistake I made on this project. I’m sure it won’t be the last.
It finally came time to apply the top coat. I read all the tips and FAQs on the web site for the paint and went for it. When I opened the can I was surprised that it was only about ¾ full. Hey, I got shorted. When I went to apply the top coat on the frame it was a bit thick and hard to apply. A foam pad wouldn’t work. I thinned it a bit with the included thinner and went ahead and painted the frame, axles, and spring perches with 2 or 3 coats. I even waited a few days and assembled the frame, springs, axles, and wheels. Pretty close to a rolling chassis. Man, I was excited!
Well, I hate to admit it, but here’s a huge bone-headed mistake I made on this project. I’m sure it won’t be the last.
It finally came time to apply the top coat. I read all the tips and FAQs on the web site for the paint and went for it. When I opened the can I was surprised that it was only about ¾ full. Hey, I got shorted. When I went to apply the top coat on the frame it was a bit thick and hard to apply. A foam pad wouldn’t work. I thinned it a bit with the included thinner and went ahead and painted the frame, axles, and spring perches with 2 or 3 coats. I even waited a few days and assembled the frame, springs, axles, and wheels. Pretty close to a rolling chassis. Man, I was excited!
- Thread starter
- #29
The paint turned out a little flatter than I would have liked and it didn’t seem to be curing very fast. It wasn’t until the following weekend when I went to paint some additional parts that I figured out my boneheadedness.
I decided to use one of the small cans they sent because I had just a few parts I wanted to paint. I opened the small can and it was clear. Hmm…
OMG, my dumb assedness had reached new levels. Sure as sh*t on the can, as plain as a “Don’t eat the white mint” sign in a urinal was, “This is part B of a two-part system.” How stupid. All the work I put into the paint, even assembled some of the parts.
It was a Saturday morning and I called the paint supplier and they answered. I explained my advanced level of idiocy and he calmly asked me to try some acetone or lacquer thinner on the paint and see what happened. Sure enough, I was able to wipe the top coat off and expose the beautiful silver primer beneath. The guy on the other end of the phone chuckled a bit and said he’d send me some new top coat, just the part A, I had plenty of part B (the hardener) on hand.
So for the next week or two that’s what I did. With a spray bottle loaded with lacquer thinner I sprayed, and wiped, and sprayed and wiped. Stupid does indeed hurt.
I decided to use one of the small cans they sent because I had just a few parts I wanted to paint. I opened the small can and it was clear. Hmm…
OMG, my dumb assedness had reached new levels. Sure as sh*t on the can, as plain as a “Don’t eat the white mint” sign in a urinal was, “This is part B of a two-part system.” How stupid. All the work I put into the paint, even assembled some of the parts.
It was a Saturday morning and I called the paint supplier and they answered. I explained my advanced level of idiocy and he calmly asked me to try some acetone or lacquer thinner on the paint and see what happened. Sure enough, I was able to wipe the top coat off and expose the beautiful silver primer beneath. The guy on the other end of the phone chuckled a bit and said he’d send me some new top coat, just the part A, I had plenty of part B (the hardener) on hand.
So for the next week or two that’s what I did. With a spray bottle loaded with lacquer thinner I sprayed, and wiped, and sprayed and wiped. Stupid does indeed hurt.
- Thread starter
- #30
New Top Coat
After at least 4 passes over the frame, it looked like I had just primered it.
This time I mixed half of part A and half of Part B and went to town. This time I had a lot to paint. The frame, axles, diffs, spring perches, diff cover, and all the front end components, knuckles, disc covers, hubs, etc.
Mixed properly this time the paint went on much, much better. I opted to try the foam roller this time and wow, I got the frame covered quickly. Before I would flip the frame while I painted but this time I lifted it up pretty high so I could sit under it on my garage stool and that worked pretty good. Still the frame took 2 or 3 coats.
I ended up using one quart to cover all those parts. If I did it again I would have probably did it in smaller sections. By the time I made my way to the radiator support and shroud the painted was a little thick.
The paint turned out pretty good. It was glossier this time but somehow not perfectly consistent between coats. I’m not sure if I didn’t measure accurately enough or mix well enough but some of the later touch ups seems a little more glossy. Only stuff I would probably notice.
After at least 4 passes over the frame, it looked like I had just primered it.
This time I mixed half of part A and half of Part B and went to town. This time I had a lot to paint. The frame, axles, diffs, spring perches, diff cover, and all the front end components, knuckles, disc covers, hubs, etc.
Mixed properly this time the paint went on much, much better. I opted to try the foam roller this time and wow, I got the frame covered quickly. Before I would flip the frame while I painted but this time I lifted it up pretty high so I could sit under it on my garage stool and that worked pretty good. Still the frame took 2 or 3 coats.
I ended up using one quart to cover all those parts. If I did it again I would have probably did it in smaller sections. By the time I made my way to the radiator support and shroud the painted was a little thick.
The paint turned out pretty good. It was glossier this time but somehow not perfectly consistent between coats. I’m not sure if I didn’t measure accurately enough or mix well enough but some of the later touch ups seems a little more glossy. Only stuff I would probably notice.
- Thread starter
- #31
Assembly
This has got to be the most exciting part, or at least so far (I can’t wait to hear the motor run and drive it when its done). To actually get to the point where you can start putting stuff back together.
Ha, project HD. That doesn’t stand for High Fidelity, nor does it stand for Harley Davidson even though I’m near Milwaukee. HD is the term of endearment I use for the 40. HD => Humpty Dumpty. I have a lot of doubts at times whether I’ll be able to put her back together again.
But yeah, finally seeing the parts come together and looking like, well, something other than tubs and tubs of parts. It’s exciting. It took me a long time to get to this point. I have had the truck now for almost a year and a half. But now spring was coming. The weather was warmer and I no longer had band responsibilities. Now is finally the time to focus on the 40. I got the frame back from my buddies and started working away.
My goal for May was to get to the rolling chassis phase.
This has got to be the most exciting part, or at least so far (I can’t wait to hear the motor run and drive it when its done). To actually get to the point where you can start putting stuff back together.
Ha, project HD. That doesn’t stand for High Fidelity, nor does it stand for Harley Davidson even though I’m near Milwaukee. HD is the term of endearment I use for the 40. HD => Humpty Dumpty. I have a lot of doubts at times whether I’ll be able to put her back together again.
But yeah, finally seeing the parts come together and looking like, well, something other than tubs and tubs of parts. It’s exciting. It took me a long time to get to this point. I have had the truck now for almost a year and a half. But now spring was coming. The weather was warmer and I no longer had band responsibilities. Now is finally the time to focus on the 40. I got the frame back from my buddies and started working away.
My goal for May was to get to the rolling chassis phase.
- Thread starter
- #32
Champion Radiator
One of the parts I accumulated was a new 2-row Champion aluminum radiator from e-bay. The radiator fit great in the radiator support but the radiator is not compatible with the stock fan shroud. That’s really a bummer.
Since I had the radiator for probably over 6 months I didn’t figure returning was an option. Instead I ground a little off the width of the radiator and mounted it inside the radiator support for the time being. I also had to cut the fan shroud to allow access to the lower radiator hose. It’s not final yet. I still might bite the bullet and cut the brackets on the radiator and reweld them.
There are two problems with the radiator. One, the placement of the mounting brackets on the radiator causes the radiator to protrude too far out of the radiator bracket towards the motor. It would not be possible to mount the fan shroud without installing some stand-offs between the shroud and radiator. This is a mistake in their jig. Really no reason to weld the brackets in this placement.
One of the parts I accumulated was a new 2-row Champion aluminum radiator from e-bay. The radiator fit great in the radiator support but the radiator is not compatible with the stock fan shroud. That’s really a bummer.
Since I had the radiator for probably over 6 months I didn’t figure returning was an option. Instead I ground a little off the width of the radiator and mounted it inside the radiator support for the time being. I also had to cut the fan shroud to allow access to the lower radiator hose. It’s not final yet. I still might bite the bullet and cut the brackets on the radiator and reweld them.
There are two problems with the radiator. One, the placement of the mounting brackets on the radiator causes the radiator to protrude too far out of the radiator bracket towards the motor. It would not be possible to mount the fan shroud without installing some stand-offs between the shroud and radiator. This is a mistake in their jig. Really no reason to weld the brackets in this placement.
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- Thread starter
- #33
The second problem with the radiator and shroud, is that the bottom outlet of the radiator is too high. It should be lower. So in order to use a stock shroud, you have to cut it to make room.
- Thread starter
- #34
It makes me angry to have to cut the shroud after cleaning it up and painting it, but oh well. Unfortunately you have to cut more than just the flat area on the shroud, you have to cut into the main bevel. I always have to remind myself, this is suppose to be just an old fun truck, not a show car.
Next was finally getting to the rebuild of the front axle. Thank goodness I put all the pieces in separate plastic bags for left and right sides and labeled them good. Too cheap to get a parts washer, I cleaned up the hardware by first moving them from there plastic bag into a used washer fluid gallon container with Kerosene in it. I’d swish the parts around a bit and let them sit a while. Then wiped them down and put them in my carb dip container. It took awhile, but the parts came pretty clean.
I purchased the knuckle rebuild kit from tpi4x4. I really didn’t think I need all new bearings, but since I’m in there… I thought the kit was a good price but when it arrived I noticed that price was per side. Doh! Oh well. When I went to assemble the rebuild kit I noticed I was missing a hub bearing seal and the kit didn’t include gaskets specific to my Warn lockouts. Great, I had the kit for a good 6 months.
I called TPI figuring I’d give them a chance and sure enough, I was surprised. The guy on the phone said he was filling orders right then and he would get me out a new seal right away. He said he thought he had some of the Warn gaskets too and said he’d throw them in and send it out. They arrived a couple days later, no charge to me. It’s times like that you don’t mind spending a little extra for good service.
I installed the diff. Disassembled the birfs, cleaned and packed them, and tried screw drivers, the hose clamp trick, the zip tie trick and just ended up mar tacking the axles shafts.
Next was finally getting to the rebuild of the front axle. Thank goodness I put all the pieces in separate plastic bags for left and right sides and labeled them good. Too cheap to get a parts washer, I cleaned up the hardware by first moving them from there plastic bag into a used washer fluid gallon container with Kerosene in it. I’d swish the parts around a bit and let them sit a while. Then wiped them down and put them in my carb dip container. It took awhile, but the parts came pretty clean.
I purchased the knuckle rebuild kit from tpi4x4. I really didn’t think I need all new bearings, but since I’m in there… I thought the kit was a good price but when it arrived I noticed that price was per side. Doh! Oh well. When I went to assemble the rebuild kit I noticed I was missing a hub bearing seal and the kit didn’t include gaskets specific to my Warn lockouts. Great, I had the kit for a good 6 months.
I called TPI figuring I’d give them a chance and sure enough, I was surprised. The guy on the phone said he was filling orders right then and he would get me out a new seal right away. He said he thought he had some of the Warn gaskets too and said he’d throw them in and send it out. They arrived a couple days later, no charge to me. It’s times like that you don’t mind spending a little extra for good service.
I installed the diff. Disassembled the birfs, cleaned and packed them, and tried screw drivers, the hose clamp trick, the zip tie trick and just ended up mar tacking the axles shafts.
- Thread starter
- #35
I decided to go with Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
- Thread starter
- #36
OH YEAH!
I can’t tell you how cool it was to finally get to the rolling chassis phase. It looks awesome to me. Very happy.
I didn’t mention my front shackles yet. Using some of the drawing I found online, I drew up some anti-inversion shackles about 1.25” longer than stock and Tim laser cut them for me. They aren’t final yet. I’m probably going to weld one side of the bolts and devise some sort of spacer to prevent over tightening. I had him cut the pieces before thinking of using a shoulder bolt.
I can’t tell you how cool it was to finally get to the rolling chassis phase. It looks awesome to me. Very happy.
I didn’t mention my front shackles yet. Using some of the drawing I found online, I drew up some anti-inversion shackles about 1.25” longer than stock and Tim laser cut them for me. They aren’t final yet. I’m probably going to weld one side of the bolts and devise some sort of spacer to prevent over tightening. I had him cut the pieces before thinking of using a shoulder bolt.
- Thread starter
- #37
Warn Hubs
I cleaned up the Warn hubs a bit and polished them. They still need some finish paint but at least they’re clean. (How much grease did they have in there?)
I cleaned up the Warn hubs a bit and polished them. They still need some finish paint but at least they’re clean. (How much grease did they have in there?)
- Thread starter
- #38
June Is Engine Month
So my goal was to get to the rolling chassis phase in May. June I wanted to focus on my engine.
Budget build, budget build, budget build… Yeah, but since I’m in there…
Months ago I spent a bunch of time on the head. I scraped the gaskets. Disassembled the valves. I spent some time polishing the bowls. I just spent time smoothing stuff out a bit. Removing casting seams. Nothing drastic.
After cleaning all the gunk off the valves I spent some time lapping them to see how the seats were. There were okay, not great. There was one that was worse than others.
I bought a 3 or 4’ precision straight edge that I used to measure the warpage of the block and the heads and according to the factory service manual (FSM), they were in spec.
Months ago I had called around to engine builders and got some rough prices. It was looking expensive. I finally broke down and went back to a local guy who does all his stuff in house. I had them repair a transmission on a Suburban a few years ago and they did a good job. He had originally told me about $1300 for the short block. Since I had to bring in the flywheel anyway, I knew that needed resurfacing since I was putting in a new clutch, I had him look at head and block.
I probably could have replaced the rings, bearings, and gaskets and been done. But I decided to go ahead and have the cam resurfaced after reading how they weren’t hardened very well from the factory. So I sent out the cam and lifters to Delta Camshaft in Washington.
That meant I needed new cam bearings. Since I didn’t have a tool, I figured I’d have the machine shop install the cam bearings. Since it was there I figured okay, I might as let them do the job right and have them hone the cylinders. That means cleaning the block and removing the expansion plugs. Heck, another $90 and I had them deck the block too.
I decided to go ahead and let them do a valve job. The guides were fine. But they did end up replacing one of the seats. I had them resurface the head and resurface the intake/exhaust mating area as well since it was pitted badly. I removed the expansion plugs myself to save a couple bucks and the machine work came to $600.
Not too bad. At least now I’m pretty confident the block and head are in good shape. Now if I don’t F it up putting it back together I’ll be good. Ah, maybe that’s what 2F stands for.
That’s where I’m at with the engine. I just picked up the block and head last night.
I ordered my parts from Northern Auto Parts: Home From them I got all the bearings, timing gear, rings and assembly lube. I had already picked up the gasket kit from advanced auto parts.
I might start assembly this weekend.
So my goal was to get to the rolling chassis phase in May. June I wanted to focus on my engine.
Budget build, budget build, budget build… Yeah, but since I’m in there…
Months ago I spent a bunch of time on the head. I scraped the gaskets. Disassembled the valves. I spent some time polishing the bowls. I just spent time smoothing stuff out a bit. Removing casting seams. Nothing drastic.
After cleaning all the gunk off the valves I spent some time lapping them to see how the seats were. There were okay, not great. There was one that was worse than others.
I bought a 3 or 4’ precision straight edge that I used to measure the warpage of the block and the heads and according to the factory service manual (FSM), they were in spec.
Months ago I had called around to engine builders and got some rough prices. It was looking expensive. I finally broke down and went back to a local guy who does all his stuff in house. I had them repair a transmission on a Suburban a few years ago and they did a good job. He had originally told me about $1300 for the short block. Since I had to bring in the flywheel anyway, I knew that needed resurfacing since I was putting in a new clutch, I had him look at head and block.
I probably could have replaced the rings, bearings, and gaskets and been done. But I decided to go ahead and have the cam resurfaced after reading how they weren’t hardened very well from the factory. So I sent out the cam and lifters to Delta Camshaft in Washington.
That meant I needed new cam bearings. Since I didn’t have a tool, I figured I’d have the machine shop install the cam bearings. Since it was there I figured okay, I might as let them do the job right and have them hone the cylinders. That means cleaning the block and removing the expansion plugs. Heck, another $90 and I had them deck the block too.
I decided to go ahead and let them do a valve job. The guides were fine. But they did end up replacing one of the seats. I had them resurface the head and resurface the intake/exhaust mating area as well since it was pitted badly. I removed the expansion plugs myself to save a couple bucks and the machine work came to $600.
Not too bad. At least now I’m pretty confident the block and head are in good shape. Now if I don’t F it up putting it back together I’ll be good. Ah, maybe that’s what 2F stands for.
That’s where I’m at with the engine. I just picked up the block and head last night.
I ordered my parts from Northern Auto Parts: Home From them I got all the bearings, timing gear, rings and assembly lube. I had already picked up the gasket kit from advanced auto parts.
I might start assembly this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #39
While the machine work was being done, I worked on cleaning up and painting other miscellaneous parts.
- Thread starter
- #40
Look how misshaped the sealing edge of the timing cover got by someone trying to stop the leak by cranking down on the bolts. That straightened out easy enough.
