My 3FE into FJ40 swap

[Sam Stewart]

If you're going to have the whole harness out like that it would be a good time to go ahead and trick the NSS. I had to do the same thing when I put the 22RE in my mini. The engine was out of an auto 4Runner. I just put a jumper wire in to complete the circuit in the connector where it would have gone to the auto trans.

 

[Curtice]

Not a ton of progress over the past couple of weeks. Cracking on my flywheel was not fixable, according to the machine shop. I was able to get another used one and resurfaced. Got the flywheel and clutch installed. A few pics...if you see anything wrong, let me know

Also cleaned and painted transmission/tcase:

So now digging into 3FE parts that I got along with the engine. I think I have identified everything, except this:

Anyone know what that part is?

 

[Stumpalama]

Make sure you put the pressure plate in correctly... I think the Haynes manual had it backwards. It was a HUGE let down when I finished my restoration and was excited to drive it out of the garage and... no worky. Had to drop the trans/t-case and do it all over again.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I ? Think ? that was a resonator box of some sorts hooked to the egr / smog pump. If i recall correctly. YOu running emmisions on this thing? I can tell ya it's probably not under the hood of most of our conversions.

 

[Curtice]

I am running emissions. I couldn't find that part on any diagrams. I guess when I start hooking things up, i'll look and see if there is a sensible location for it.

@stumpalama - that is my big fear, that I will have to pull it all apart again after I am done. How was yours installed incorrectly? I thought the pressure plate could only fit one way, didn't realize it could bolt up nicely but still be wrong. Here is one more pic of it installed (from underneath):

I also want to make sure I got the disc in correctly. The disc face you can see in the following picture, I have installed towards the engine. Is that correct?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Does this help?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD

 

[Stumpalama]

Yes, I meant the friction disc... One side has the longer snout... It's been a while since I did the clutch so I don't remember which way it faces.

 

[Curtice]

Does this help?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using IH8MUD

Yes! Perfect, thanks. Don't know what it is, but I'll hook it up!

 

[Curtice]

Yes, I meant the friction disc... One side has the longer snout... It's been a while since I did the clutch so I don't remember which way it faces.

OK...I did have a hard time making sense of it from the manual. I finally looked at Coolerman's install pics and even though his was for the older version, I think it made sense and I am 99% sure I did it right since I cannot see the protruding hub

 

[Godwin]

So now digging into 3FE parts that I got along with the engine. I think I have identified everything, except this:

Anyone know what that part is?

It's called a silencer and you don't need it. When I did the 3FE swap into my 60 I installed the silencer but later pulled it to gain a little underhood space. There was no difference in noise with and without.

 

[Curtice]

So its been a few months since I updated this thread, mainly because I have not got a lot done. Some family medical issues and other things took precedence. Finally getting back to it. So a few update pictures, then some questions.

Mated the transmission up to the motor, and dropped the whole setup in:

and settled:

Realized I didn't like how it fit against the brake booster...there was a bolt/tab thing that was smashed up against the booster. I think I read in another thread that someone grinded this off. If you look in this pic, you can see what I refer to (looking down from above the booster):

I elected to swap out the large booster for a smaller one. So I lifted the motor back out enough to remove the booster. Grabbed a smaller booster from a '79 mini-truck and it bolted right it, everything seems the correct length. Much more room now:

Tightened the motor mounts and ready to start hooking crap up.

 

[Curtice]

I want to tackle the fuel lines first. Going with the stock 62 fuel filter setup. Got the inlet line from the filter to the motor hooked up:

But now is where I have some questions. Currently, I have my old hard lines running along the frame rail, ending when they hit the engine bay. These end with ring/bubble flare thing to slip a rubber hose and clamp on. The 62 line that will/should connect those to the filter is set up for a flared end (from the banjo bolt at the filter, it is crimped to a soft line, then crimped on the end that would connect to the flared end). I hope that makes sense. I need to connect these two somehow:

Is it ok to cut off the end and attach the rubber line to the hard line with a hose clamp? The fuel pump I have is 45 psi. I also have other hardline to softline interchanges back to the tank that I will have to do this with, unless I shouldn't for some reason.

 

[Stumpalama]

I'm wondering the same thing. I would assume using FI hose and sliding enough over the hard line and using 2 clamps would be sufficient to prevent leaks. However, I don't know about cutting the original line and it may be reinforced and not conform to the hard line.

 

[Curtice]

The other options I see are bending all new hard lines, and flaring the ends. Or cutting using a compression fitting. The guys at Napa thought this wasn't a good idea, but any thoughts? How would I connect a rubber hose to a hard line using a compression fitting? Is there some sort of crimped end that can go on the soft line? Has anyone done this?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Are you trying to go from the frame to the filter or from the filter to the engine? Or is that the return line? if it's return then don't worry about the pressures. FOr the high pressure lines I ran AN bulkheads to metal compression along the frame to another an bulkhead to a flex line to the pump. Everything is rated at about 250 psi or more..

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. That is actually what I ended up deciding. I realized I only needed to worry about the pressure between the pump and the filter on the feed line. Return line, I just plan to put new hose on with clamps.

On that note about the pump...I have the aeromotive 11109 that others have used. The inlet to the pump is 5/16, which matches what I currently have, so that is good. But the aeromotive tech guys told me I need to have AN-8 (1/2") feed line from the tank to the pump, or I will have heat/vapor lock problems.

It seems most people just used the 5/16 inlet. Has anyone had any these types of problems doing it this way?

Sooner or later I will actually make some real progress and post some pics...

 

[Curtice]

Got a bunch of updates to post soon, but first, I am hoping someone has a picture of a couple wiring connectors for me.

To do the wiring, I have a complete engine harness for the EFI, etc. This is from a 1988 and is already on the engine. I also obtained a donor harness from a 1989 to do all the wiring for the main harness. I need to join the main harness with the engine harness. The problem I have is on the 1989 harness, there is one 7 point connector to join them. On the 1988 harness, it is a 5 point and a 2 point connector. So I need to separate out the 7 wire connector into the two so I can hook it up.

I have pictures of the engine harness connectors that I have. Does anyone have pictures of what these connectors go to? Some folks I am trying to buy these from are asking and I cannot find any anywhere. I imagine they are standard

5 wire connector I have (I need the other side of this). This is in the engine bay, just inside the firewall. I imagine the connector is round

2 wire connector I currently have (need the other side of this). This is next to the ECU connections:

 

[Stumpalama]

I do, but its at home and I am not. Chances are someone will weigh in with the correct answer before I get to my notes. I know that one of the wires in the 2 wire connector is unused.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. I'll check that...if one of the wires on the two wire connector is unused, I will just link those with a single connector. But would still be helpful if someone has a picture of the main harness 5 wire connector.

 

[73tlcv8]

I was in the same boat, 88 engine harness with two plugs and an 89 cowl harness with one plug. The 88 engine harness was pretty rough so I just went with a 89 engine harness and solved all the issues. I went out and looked at my partially disassembled 88 engine harness and came up with this:

Two conductor plug
G-R = VC to TPS and AFM
G = ?

Five conductor plug
B-R = Ign switch to Starter Solenoid/circuit opening relay/start injector
B-Bu = Ign switch to igniter/injectors/efi computer
R-G = FP power to check connector
Y-R = +B to ISV and O2 sensors
B = Tach signal to check connector

How'd I do?