Builds My 1993 FZJ80 Build

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Got the windshield replaced with an oem seal. They sealed it per the fsm, so it should be good to go. Lifetime warranty on the install if it leaks as well. It's so much clearer than the old one. I opted for no shade/tint at the top.

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I also added tires to my trailer wheel jack. The hard plastic wheel is completely useless. I drilled out the mount to 5/8" and used an 8" bolt. Works so much better and gives me a little more lift. I'm going to put a metal spacer in between instead of the plastic wheel once I find one for cheap. Right now it's almost like I run-flat... lol.

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My sunroof has leaked the entire time I've owned this rig (almost 10 years now). I've done all the things (clean out the drains, replace drain hoses, etc) with no luck. So I said screw it and sealed that bitch shut. I'm just done with it.

This should do the trick.

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I taped about an inch or so on the outside and inside so the edges were somewhat clean. It worked ok, but I won't be able to see it anyway haha.

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Still some cleanup to do, but that's good enough for now. We'll see how well it works (or doesn't).

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So now that I've got a new windshield and the sunroof sealed, I decided to FINALLY install these headlights. I originally was going to do a HID setup, but LED tech has come a long way since I bought these headlights (years back), so I went that route. We'll see how well it works. I might do HID depending on how this goes. The headlights have a very nice cutoff in low-beam mode, so I won't blind anyone (it has projectors).

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I also dug out my old el-cheapo Harbor Freight aux lights and installed yellow HID's in those. I wanted to have LED + HID so I could get the distance of HID and the fill of LED. Then I mounted my light bar on the top section of my bumper. I need to get the headlights properly aimed before truly testing it out at night, but now I've got too many lights, so it's perfect. Next up is cleaning and painting the grille to match the blacked-out headlights and install yellow lamin-x on the headlights so they're somewhat protected.

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I also picked up this 12 gang Mictuning switch panel. Since my sunroof is disconnected, I'm designing an overhead console that will house it, my dome light and whatever else I can fit up there. I'd like to put my cb up there was well, but we'll see what can fit.

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This little project is forcing me to finally assemble my 300x300mm printer, so I should be able to pump out all the parts I've been designing in ABS.
 
I went out to a couple pick-n-pulls in hopes of finding two things:

1.) LS400 sun visors
2.) 3 wire corner marker/blinker wiring

Out of two LS400's, I only found one visor: the driver's side. The color doesn't match 100%, but for $13.59, I'll just eventually grab some vinyl paint for it.

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Works well. I just need to design and print a mount that is slightly angled for the hinge since it's slightly the wrong angle, but it works great for now.
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I also couldn't find any relevant Toyota's that have the corner marker plugs (rear 92ish celica light sockets, older celica turns), so I just started looking at anything around that same year. I found a Paseo, pulled the turn signals and saw they used the same electrical plug type. BUT, the socket that twists into the turn signal has 4 tabs instead of 3. I grabbed them anyway, took them home and they DO fit. I just had to angle it when putting it in the corner marker. I'll probably just file off one of the tabs, but they fit! And they only cost me $2 for everything.

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I also did another test print for my overhead console I'm designing. I'm just getting the mounting holes lined up first, then I'll start having fun with it.

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Getting everything mocked up in 3DS Max for the overhead console. Right now I just have my CB and switch panel in there, but I'll be adding two integrated swivel map lights as well. Then once I get everything I need into the design, I'll start making it pretty with smoothed edges and such. I still need to finish building my bigger printer before doing any test prints, but the design is making progress.

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Just starting on the frame, making sure everything is straight and square. This is the most important part of the build, so I'm taking my time to do it right. It's a Voron Trident 300mm x 300mm x 250mm.

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I also found a good set of sport seats out of a 2011 Audi A4 with adjustable leg extensions. They're fully electric and heated. So I'll be using the Q7 seats I got in my 2002 A4 and these in the cruiser. They're in almost perfect shape, just a little dusty. I also got 2nd row Audi Q7 seats I'll be retro-fitting into the cruiser as well.

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I also grabbed a pair of sun visors and a rearview mirror off a Lexus LS400. Everything fits great, just grey instead of white/cream/whatever the headliner is. But it matches my door cards and dash, so it doesn't look completely out of place. I'll have to figure out the wiring for the rearview mirror and it'll also need a spacer so it sits lower (the original is taller), but it's in much better shape and it's also a lot bigger. It bolts right up, though.

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I also grabbed some sunvisors from an RX330 and they fit as well, but I'll probably end up selling these. They're super cheap at the wrecking yard.

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I also just got my Lexus seat heater switches with the plugs & wires to hook to my Audi seats. They work very differently from the Toyota seats, but I've already tested a working solution.

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Not yet. I have to delete the PAIR system + EGR first and have been very busy with family stuff and work. I'll post updates when I'm able to get it installed.
I ordered the same for mine last year. Working on getting my engine out for the freshly rebuilt block. And the routing inside the frame looks pretty tight on my '93.
Does the PAIR system have to come out for it? Or just your preference for a full EGR delete?
 
Thanks for the tip on the LS400 sunvisors. I made a quick trip to the local U Pull and snagged a pair. I'm going to paint them with SEM vinyl dye.
 
I ordered the same for mine last year. Working on getting my engine out for the freshly rebuilt block. And the routing inside the frame looks pretty tight on my '93.
Does the PAIR system have to come out for it? Or just your preference for a full EGR delete?
It has to come out. There's nowhere for it to go with the Aussie headers.
 
Back after another hiatus.

I got this Mictuning switch setup installed finally. After breaking my leatherman and my endoscope camera getting stuck in the truck (and breaking as a result), I decided to just route the wire for this through my sunroof drain tube (sunroof is sealed shut). Now I finally have my 2x HID fogs working in addition to my led bar. Just need to get my 3d printers going again and print my custom console that'll house my CB + this switch panel + swivel lights.

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I had to get the rear seat belts replaced with ratcheting ones. They were said to be grey/blue, but obviously aren't. Normally I would've returned them, but we had a camping trip that week and I needed to make sure my son's car seat was safe and secure for the trip. They'll work in the meantime before I swap the rear Audi seats in.

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Successful camping trip in the Mt. Hood National Forest. The trailer did really well on some fun off-roading. I also replaced the gas struts on the side access panels on the trailer and finally drilled and mounted some for the cap hatch door.

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Then my amazing wife got me a plasma cutter for father's day. She's the best. It works pretty well for the stuff I'm cutting on 120v, but I need to grab a 240v extension to cut thicker stuff.

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Then I'm onto FINALLY getting my Audi A4 sport seats installed.

I had the base brackets bent and mounted months ago, but that's where it stopped. Yesterday I changed up my approach and mounted flat bar on either side facing forward. Got that drilled and mounted to the seat. Tomorrow I'll get cross-braces welded on, get the seat positioned, then tack everything together to fully test the movement and clearance. Then fully weld it together and paint.

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I was able to get the passenger side bracket all welded up and mounted. It works perfectly. I just need to clean it up, prime & paint it. Unfortunately I got sick right after getting it bolted in, so hopefully I can get the driver's side together this weekend.

All the steel I used was 3/16" flat bar, 2"-5" widths. I used this bender. Works great despite the name lol.
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Got this tacked together mounted in the truck, then fully welded it up.
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I also welded the nuts on the bottom side so I just need to mess with the mounting bolts.
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Now I just need to wire up the seat controls and the heater.
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I got these high amperage buck converters for the seat heaters. I plan on using the Toyota switches, so I'll only have 2 heat levels: Low and High. I guess we'll see how well they work (or don't). Either way, I'll have heated seats.
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