Builds My 1981 HJ45 Troopy build

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I guess it would have been an FJ something or another. I use HJ too frequently. It's habit. I don't really know the donor vehicle, only that I didn't have to do any work to the tranny to bolt it up to my H and have it fit the floor correctly.
 
Ah. Interesting. So, it was an HJ47 which had been re-fitted with a 2F and H55?

I tend to associate the 5-speed mostly with BJ-42's though I guess there must have been a certain number with 2F installations, in 1983~4. Does that sound about right?

The H55f itself is FAR more common in non-40 series trucks. It's in 60s and 70s too (through the HZJ-75). BUT, there are minor differences in the details, mostly input shafts and the top plates.

The F/H series engines can use the other's stuff-no problems.
The B series uses its own input shaft.
The 1HZ used a different input shaft still.

The '83-84 BJ-42s (at least in Canada) had the 5 speed, but with the 40 series top plate to put the shifters in the right holes in the floor. But that's it.

You could put an H55f into yours no sweat, and even less if you also found a 40 series top plate so you wouldn't have to do any bodywork on the transmission tunnel.

Shoot: you can still order one new from Toyota for the F/H series motors.

Dan
 
Ah. Interesting. So, it was an HJ47 which had been re-fitted with a 2F and H55?

I tend to associate the 5-speed mostly with BJ-42's though I guess there must have been a certain number with 2F installations, in 1983~4. Does that sound about right?

My 84 FJ40 LX has factory 5 speed, so it has the F/H input shaft and the 40 series top loader. I have seen a number of these, but only ever in the 40 series. I've never seen a factory FJ45 with the factory-fitted H55 down here.

Josh
 
Do you ever work on your Cruiser so much that you begin to hate the thing? I'm at that point. Lots of progress lately but haven't taken many photos. I hope too soon.

I'm ready to pull the fiberglass top and side panels off of it. I need to redo the headliner. Anyone have any words of wisdom on doing a Troopy headliner?
 
My 84 FJ40 LX has factory 5 speed, so it has the F/H input shaft and the 40 series top loader. I have seen a number of these, but only ever in the 40 series. I've never seen a factory FJ45 with the factory-fitted H55 down here.

Josh

That's what I understood as well - the 5-speeds only were in the LX FJ40's and the BJ-42's, never in the 45/47 series rigs. Not as a factory product anyhow.
 
A quick check of my sources shows 5-speeds were available from the TMC Honsya Plant factory during 10/82-10/84 in certain FJ40, BJ42, and BJ46; also avail from 9/83-10/84 in certain FJ43. None offered in pickups or cab/chassis models. No mention of BJ44.
 
Getting ready for Baja

We're hoping to leave Maine for a trip to Baja in Mid January. Still have lots of work to do.

It's nice to have it running again. Not drivable yet, just running. It was a bit of a PITA to bleed the fuel system with both new tanks through the Pollak fuel dual tank valve. It's done and running well. Still need to re-torque the new head gasket.


Relocated the rear tank fill behind the rear wheel.
troopy-topless-1.jpg



Dual-swing rear tire carrier is almost done. Still need to weld up the rack for the Jerry cans. I'm happy with the way the towbar/receiver worked out.
troopy-topless-2.jpg


troopy-topless-3.jpg



We're installing all new gaskets and door seals.
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My wife working on prepping the fiberglass top for the new headliner.
troopy-topless-5.jpg
 
Wow, nice bumper/tire carrier! Where did you get your spindles?

And, will you put any functionality to keep the swingouts locked in the open position -- for when you are on a sloap, for example?
 
I bought most of the pieces parts for the tire carrier from Gappy here on Mud. I started off with a single-swing carrier I bought from him. I later decided I'd rather have a dual-swing type and modified it.

I've thought about some kind of lock for the swinging arms but wanted to use them a little before I came up with a permanent solution. I'd like to have an easy way to mount a tray or counter to either side as well. Someday, maybe.
 
Prepping the fiberglass top

I'm working on the fiberglass top. I'd like to quiet it down a little bit. In stock form it's like a big vibrating drum. I applied 4 coats of Spectrum sound deadener with a roller yesterday and I have a new Troopy headliner hanging trying to get the wrinkles out of it.

troopy-fiberglass-top.jpg


troopy-headliner.jpg
 
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Discovered recently that I had no 5th gear so I had to pull the tcase and Toybox off to investigate. Turns out that the Marlin Crawler adapter plate interferes with the movement of the 5th gear shift rail. I didn't catch this issue during initial assembly. I had to take about .040" off the end of the shift rail to correct the interference problem. I'm happy it was an easy fix. So if you're doing an H55 and a Toybox make sure to look for that issue.

BTW, I doubt I'll ever try to do a headliner again. It turned out horrible. Embarrassingly horrible. Wrinkles everywhere. I used a 3M spray on headliner adhesive and it must have reacted with the Spectrum soundproofing material under it. It was smooth when I finished gluing it in place and a few hours into drying it was a complete mess.
 
Just finished the conversion to disc brakes all around and took it for a spin down the road and through the woods. The thing stops like a modern truck now. I think I'll be happy with this upgrade.

Monte Carlo calipers in the rear and V6 4Runner calipers up front. I kept the stock 1 1/16" drum brake master cylinder but pulled the check valves out of it. (The Troopy had drum brakes all around.) This master cylinder seems like a good match for a four wheel disc setup. I didn't install a proportioning valve or a 2 pound residual pressure valve as many have suggested here on Mud. So far so good.
 
Drawers and sleeping platform

Trying to get some drawers and a sleeping platform built before we head out for Baja.

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drawers-2.jpg


The open area to the right of the batteries will be a storage compartment for tools and spare parts.

The electrical gadgets are: Promariner 40 amp charger (between the two Lifeline GPL-30HT AGM batteries), MorningStar solar charger (the little unit) and a 300 watt Morningstar inverter.
 
It looks great, keep it up and yes I think most of us have been pissed at our rigs. I know I have.
 
Too busy to post photos...

It's finally trip-worthy and packed up for Baja. We're leaving tomorrow morning. This is what it looks like sitting in the driveway while we're getting 14 inches of snow.

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I'll do paint and body work over the summer. For now we'll just blend in with the locals. (Like the political sign as a radiator screen?)


I did have to replace the head gasket again recently after about 2500 miles. I was only running 9 to 10 psi of boost. I hope the new one lasts a little longer. I'm taking a spare just in case. If I blow another one I think I'll need to upgrade the head bolts to ARP studs or something.
 
and to update, apparently the head gasket made it 2000 miles this time! I'm sure more details will follow this post when he gets situated. He should be a vip guest at our annual club meeting here in Kansas city.
 
That sucks. I hope the repair isn't cutting too much into the trip. Baja awaits.
 
they made it to colorado with the waste gate open.
 
So I made it to Crested Butte today.

I'm having a very hard time making sense of my problems. The problem appears to be gone now.

Here's the set of conditions that led up to my water temps hitting 200 degrees on I70 in Missouri and making me think I blew the head gasket again:

In the photo above you can see that I had installed a radiator screen to block the flow or cold air through the radiator. I was using Napa premixed 50/50 HOAT heavy duty diesel coolant. It's the stuff that Cat (or Cummins) recommends. I do not have the stock radiator overflow tank installed. I have an aftermarket unit that might be smaller in capacity. I was running a 13lb lever-vent radiator cap.

After about 3 straight hours of cruising at 70mph through Illinois I noticed the temp gauge started climbing above 185. It was 40 degrees outside and I had the radiator blocked still. I checked the coolant level and I was about 1 gallon low and refilled with the same Napa brand and type of coolant already in the engine. I started getting concerned that maybe I didn't have enough airflow through the radiator so I cut a 3 inch by 10 inch hole in the radiator screen.

100 miles later I needed another 3/4 gallons of coolant. Still pushing the truck fairly hard at 70mph most of the time. Pyrometer was running 950 to 975 degrees F. Engine water temps would get up to 185 on long hills but drop back down to 175 which is normal for the mechanical Autometer gauge in the truck. Never blew the cap and did not notice a mess from the overflow tank. Still running the 13lb cap.

I forget how far I went to the next stop but it needed coolant again. The truck stop did not have the same type of coolant I was using. So I ended up buying some of the green stuff that was labeled "compatible with all antifreeze types". It took about 3/4 of a gallon. Within 15 miles of putting this stuff in the engine temps got up to 195 so I pulled over on the side of I70. I used the radiator cap lever to vent the pressure and couldn't believe the pressure I released. I thought for sure the head gasket had blown completely. I pulled the cap and a lot of thick foam shot out under pressure. I could see no liquid, just foam. I poured a little over 2 gallons of straight water in after it calmed down a little.

Every 50 miles or so I would stop and check things. Each time there was foam in the top radiator tank I would fill with water and flush as much foam out as I could. With each stop the foam situation improved but I was still losing coolant. That's when I decided to call it quits in Concordia and assumed I had a blown head gasket.

The next morning I 25 miles or so from Concordia to Higginsville and stopped in at the local parts store. I bought some more antifreeze (green type) and a 16 pound radiator cap. I adjusted the wastegate to make sure the turbo was essentially disabled. I adjusted the injection pump screw in one full turn.

Then I drove back and forth from Higginsville to I70 twice and checked the coolant. A slight amount of foam but I didn't lose any coolant. This was encouraging so my wife convinced me to attempt to press on towards Colorado.

I would stop and check the coolant every 40 to 60 miles across Kansas. I flushed some foam out a few times but it never really needed much coolant added. Only a few cups at most. I noticed the engine temps climbing up to 190 at one point so I cut out the remaining portion of the radiator screen. For the last 150 miles before stopping in Limon, CO for the night the truck needed no coolant at all.

Today I drove from Limon, CO to Crested Butte, CO. It's about 300 miles with some serious changes in elevation. I adjusted the wastegate so I would get about 5 psi out of the turbo expecting that I would start losing coolant. That never happened. 300 miles with the turbo working and no loss of coolant. It actually ran very well and I pushed it pretty hard. 12,000+ foot Monarch pass was a slow, 2nd gear affair but that's to be expected.

So now I have to figure this all out. Did I just have a bad radiator cap? Will mismatched antifreeze types foam up horribly?

I plan to flush the cooling system tomorrow, refill, turn the boost back up to 9 psi and drive the thing back and forth to Gunnison. Then test for exhaust in the coolant. I figure that's the best course of action before assuming I have a bad head gasket.

Is there a problem running a 16lb cap instead of the stock 13lb?

What would happen if my aftermarket overflow tank is smaller capacity than the stock unit? How much will the stock overflow tank hold? I think the aftermarket one is only 28 ounces.
 

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