My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install…. (2 Viewers)

[knuckle47]

I figured there are several Sniper builds listed and I enjoy every one of them. I know I will second guess half of what I am doing so I will post a few photos and curse phrases while I am getting this slowly done…it at the fuel tank stage currently so here are a pictures and comments.

I was a little surprised with the discovery of a new poly fuel tank. I assumed the old steel tank might have a few weeping spots from age and always smelled a faint fuel smell. Turns out that was from a broken nipple on the fuel evaporator separator so I was getting puffs of gas-laden air as fuel sloshed around the tank. Thankfully I had ordered the new steel tank over a year ago waiting for this install when I ordered the Sniper.

I was not sure about cutting a hole in the new tank. There was no legend about the internal tank structure but there are baffles to avoid. I found a video on YouTube where the install was detailed and provided a clue about location

 

[knuckle47]

The pump is mounted and secure, the float from the fuel sender lands where it should and I have the hole in the tank cover cut. I will add that I stupidly Used a 4” hole saw on a DeWalt drill to cut the hole. Once the teeth on the hole saw took hold of the steel the drill twisted out of my hand with such force, I thought I had broken my wrist. Quite a sprain so sat things out for 2 days and got it done with a Sabre saw quickly today.

What is the best sealant to use for the AN fittings on the fuel pump?

 

[John Smith]

AN fittings don't need anything to seal.

 

[ryanwk628]

Looks nice! This is the Tanks Inc unit? What video did you reference to determine the hole location?

 

[knuckle47]

Sorry, my fault…it’s is the pipe side of the AN adapter I am looking to seal.

EDIT: found it….. they suggest fuel proof thread sealant or teflon tape

 

[knuckle47]

@ryanwk628 this is the video I’d found.. played it about 8 times up to the pump placement then…over again, over and over…


As for the pump and mounting…it is the Tanks kit. I bought the entire package from Mosley Motors about 16 months ago. Even these days, life gets in the way still so after dreaming of doing this while my knee was recovering (and it still isn’t)… I am doing a little bit each day as time permits. Even if only an hour, I try to make that happen.

So far I just spent another hour screwing around with the Holly Electrical pin connector kit trying to build a 2 pin connector for the pump power. That is not going well. Could sure use a Radio Shack about now.

 

[knuckle47]

Looking for a suggestion for the clean switched 12 volt source…. Anyone that has installed this, please advise. I’d like to get this right the first time
ALSO; Do I just vent the tank as originally setup by Toyota or include the vented barb on the pump mount?

Here’s a peek into the existing Weber. It runs very nicely which probably accounts for why I have put off the Holley Sniper this long

 

[knuckle47]

Small progress today… pulled the Weber off, that thing uses 3 adapter plates. The two studs facing the valve cover are a bitch to get too and whomever installed it, felt the same way. They were finger tight. Looking for an adapter to fit the coolant sensor to the top of the cylinder head

Added the sealant to the tank AN fittings

 

[John Smith]

I run my Sniper pink wire off of a dedicated relay activated by the IGN circuit. Even though Holley says to avoid using the coil + terminal, because it is "noisy", it seems many Mud members put the pink wire on the coil + terminal without issue. I have my fuel cell vented to my charcoal canister, you can run your vent to that, or if it is long gone, atmosphere.

One thing I wish someone told me before first start... Go ahead and dial back the throttle position screw on the Sniper a few turns, so at first start it doesn't go to 3,800 RPM and want to stay there at idle. It will run just fine at a normal idle RPM until you hit the 165 water temp, and it starts to "learn".
I, along with many others, plumb the water temp sensor into the block drain location. I have my stock water temp sensor, and my AutoGauge water temp sensor in the head locations. My AutoGauge and Sniper read about 3 degrees difference in water temp.

Teflon is perfect for pipe thread, but a no no on the AN side.

 

[knuckle47]

Hey John,

Thank you for the insight and suggestions. I will re-think a few things when I get back out there. My canister is still there

 

[knuckle47]

A bit of confusion setting in and I don’t know why. So let me try to lay this out.

With regard to the Sniper coolant sensor. I seem to have 2 locations I was planning on using. One at the top of the cylinder head in the rear near
cylinder 6 or the one where the water drain cock is in the rear of the engine, drivers side near cylinder 6 . The water drain cock is no longer and
there is a sensor fitted in there. There is also a sensor in the top as seen in the photos ….In the photos, you can see that both are wired to
something.

Any thoughts?

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Looking for an adapter to fit the coolant sensor to the top of the cylinder head

Added the sealant to the tank AN fittings


View attachment 3611231

“Redline” sells an adapter, pic for reference.

 

[knuckle47]

@Chungas Revenge That will do it ! Ordered one !!!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

A bit of confusion setting in and I don’t know why. So let me try to lay this out.

With regard to the Sniper coolant sensor. I seem to have 2 locations I was planning on using. One at the top of the cylinder head in the rear near
cylinder 6 or the one where the water drain cock is in the rear of the engine, drivers side near cylinder 6 . The water drain cock is no longer and
there is a sensor fitted in there. There is also a sensor in the top as seen in the photos ….In the photos, you can see that both are wired to
something.

Any thoughts?

Do you have an aftermarket gauge and your OE gauge? Should be easy to trace the wires back to the source”.

 

[knuckle47]

No, only the OEM I was hoping not to dig thru but there are 3 wires running into a hole near the original choke pull cable so I will agree… I’m gonna need to look. I was looking for an easier “ oh, that’s the _———_ , just disconnect it ”

1 wire from each a some thin wire connected to nothing

 

[knuckle47]

@Chungas Revenge so I have no immediate actions as it is only 9:30am , Saturday and raining. I have discovered that I have a 3 port head versus a 2-port head as evidenced by the casting number on the head…maybe it means there are 3 access ports for coolant on it or…? Who knows… of course I will trace those wires through the dashboard and it will be more revealing…..

Here is the casting number: the Redline reducer you referenced looks ideal and I did order it last night

 

[21NDone]

This will be my layout...

 

[knuckle47]

@21NDone great visual aid… thanks..and a surgically clean work area….i love that

 

[knuckle47]

As of this afternoon, gotten this far. For some reason, the mounting flange on these headers is taller than the 2F manifold so I did need to trim the insulator to have it lie fully flat against the intake. Wiring is next and drilling in for the O2 sensor

@charliemeyer007 …evap separator fixed and mounted…thanks for the photo
@wngrog once again, great install guide

 

[wngrog]

You can trim the isolator and/or grind the tops off the header there.