Multi-purpose torque wrench. Is this it?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Threads
112
Messages
731
Location
Northern Territory Outback Australia
I bought a 1/2" drive unit at harbor freight that was on sale for 11 dollars plus shipping, its pretty nice quality and i have used it a bunch with no problems, i got the one that goes from like 20-150 lbs or something like that. If your on a budget i would check out the one i got. I am on my cell phone so i cant provide a link but if you search on their site you, find a few offerings.
 
I have found that most torque wrenches work great. Until you have them calibrated and find out that they are no where close to where they should be. IMHO, if it doesn't come with a certificate of calibration, you have no idea on what you are torquing it too. It needs too be checked. At least when you first buy it. After that, it is up to you and your comfort zone.
 
I have found that most torque wrenches work great. Until you have them calibrated and find out that they are no where close to where they should be. IMHO, if it doesn't come with a certificate of calibration, you have no idea on what you are torquing it too. It needs too be checked. At least when you first buy it. After that, it is up to you and your comfort zone.

x2, you get what you pay for. most of the mechanics at work have their torque wrenches rechecked every few years too.
 
If you want to save money - just get a decent quality beam-type rather than a click type.
 
Buying an off-brand clicker-type torque wrench is risky. You really have no idea if it is properly calibrated. If you are on a budget a brand-name beam type torque wrench isn't a bad option. I've had a beam type torque wrench for 20 years. They are very low tech and can be annoying at times (tightening something and the scale is facing the wrong way), but they are reliable and should stay within reasonable calibration (if something gets bent or broken it is very obvious).
 
I bought one from harbor that goes to 300 lbs for $90
It worked like a charm for the crank bolt, I just put a 3/4" breaker bar on the bolt to get the extra torque needed and them some for safe measure.
 
Mechanics do not use torque wrenches, but you better get one. I told you 1/2'' impact gun, $29 harbor freight and all the air pressure you got. Better yet, STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING, LEAVE IT ALONE.
 
Last edited:
I bought one from harbor that goes to 300 lbs for $90
It worked like a charm for the crank bolt, I just put a 3/4" breaker bar on the bolt to get the extra torque needed and them some for safe measure.

does works like a charm include being precise? have you had it calibrated? if so, i wouldn't put a breaker bar on with it...it won't be calibrated for long. it doesnt' take much to mess up the calibration on a torque wrench.
 
Mechanics do not use torque wrenches, but you better get one. I told you 1/2'' impact gun, $29 harbor freight and all the air pressure you got. Better yet, STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING, LEAVE IT ALONE.

You have no clue what you are talking about.
 
Mechanics do not use torque wrenches, but you better get one. I told you 1/2'' impact gun, $29 harbor freight and all the air pressure you got. Better yet, STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING, LEAVE IT ALONE.

I am a mechanic and I use one almost everyday. Does that mean I should turn in all 3 licenses back to the FAA? I do hope you were joking.:grinpimp:
 
Not joking, I do have a lot of experience, mostly being a smart ass though.
Seriously, F-1,GTP builder, A+P mechanic, electrical contractor, open wheel driver, track records everywhere I went. Never had the need for a torque wrench, but my hands are so good, sorry. Wait, I left out like fifty things and ten licenses.
 
Last edited:
Not joking, I do have a lot of experience, mostly being a smart ass though.
Seriously, F-1,GTP builder, A+P mechanic, electrical contractor, open wheel driver, track records everywhere I went. Never had the need for a torque wrench, but my hands are so good, sorry. Wait, I left out like fifty things and ten licenses.

Then my hat goes off to you. But you really shouldn't recommend the "no torque wrench" approach to others. Their hands may not be "calibrated" as well as yours and mine. There is a sense of "feel" when it comes to torquing things. But I have seen many people break things and cause more issues because they have the "feel". :flipoff2:
 
My bad, you will have clearance issues with a gun. Breaker bar and a sledge hammer is what you need. Put a dab of RTV on the threads when you put it back in. Trying to do your front seal?
 
I have found that most torque wrenches work great. Until you have them calibrated...
Where do you go / send your torque wrench to have it calibrated?
 
Check your torque wrench by comparing it to others, free rental at auto zone or borrow a friends.
 
I am not sure. The company I work for supplies my tools (lucky me) and I already had everything. Well I kept all my hand tools at home and brought my torque wrenches in and they calibrate them for me. Since they did not have to buy the wrenches, i can take them home when ever i want. Kind of a good trade really. I do know they send them out every 12 months. I work for a government agency and I believe they send them to a military base somewhere. We do have some stuff calibrated by a private company. I will try to get some info for you. You can also check with your local Mac or Snap On rep.
 
I use mine for pretty much anything that calls for a specific torque setting on either of my trucks. (In fact, I need to go back through my front end on the hundy and tighten stuff up...) Mine came with a certificate too, but I do know that all instruments come out of tolerance over time. It would be good to have a trustworthy source that doesn't require sending your wrench(s) out for several weeks at a time. I know on other test equipment, you can be down for 4-6 weeks for the recal process.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom